Garelli Wiring Diagrams: All have CEV 3-wire magnetos with external ignition ground powering the brake light. Garelli wiring is functionally the same as “Minarelli” Wiring on many Italian mopeds. Only some of the wire colors and connector or switch styles are different.

Garelli Wiring Simplified
US models 1976-86

Garelli Wiring Actual

Garelli (US models) CEV 3-wire magneto
with external ignition ground 

1970’s Garelli Eureka and Katia (UK models)

’85-86 Garelli Monza GT, external ign. ground

General Wiring Diagrams: There has been confusion for years, because of 1) mistakes in the original wirings,  2) wiring in some models not agreeing with the original owners manual, 3) different brand names and alias names for the Jui Li, Her Chee, or Tsing Hua made mopeds, 4) lack of coverage of wiring issues in the service manuals (perhaps because different engines were optional, the engine manuals were separate and not integrated into the main manual), and 5) different versions were produced, sometimes without documentation. The wirings below come from actual wiring harness replacement parts, or actual mopeds or scraps of them. Showing the real wires alongside the diagram for them proves that these corrected wirings are accurate, even though some things might contradict some original wiring diagrams.  

General 5-Star Wiring
top tank Minarelli V1 eng
CEV 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground 

General Wiring Harness
top tank Minarelli engine
CEV 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground 

General 5-Star Actual
(top tank Minarelli) 

General 5-Star Versions
   battery wire, pink circle
top – male bullet
bottom-female bullet

General Brake Light Switches: General 5 Star (top tank) has the brake light switches that screw into the levers. General 5 Star ST (step thru) has a front brake light switch in the cable, and a foot brake switch. Other kinds (Lazer?) have both front and rear brake light switches built into the cables. Some of the wirings have an unused female bullet connector on the white wire, to allow either kind of brake light switch.

General and Lazer (Jui Li) top tank mopeds (Minarelli V1 engine with CEV 6932 magneto with external ignition ground): General 5-Star and Lazer Sport 50 have 97% the same wiring, except for: 1) General has a steering lock key switch, that kills the spark and un-grounds the battery when the key is removed, 2) Lazer has an additional lite green and red ground wire in the harness, 3) Lazer has a 6N2-2A battery, while General has a 6N4B-2A battery, twice the amp-hours and wider. 

General 5 Star “early”
Sachs 505 foot brake
Bosch 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

General 5 Star “late”
 Sachs 505 foot brake
Bosch 3-wire magneto
ext ign gnd (always gnd)

General ST “late” Actual
Sachs 505/1A foot brake
Bosch 3-wire magneto

General-compatible
new, unknown origin
for Bosch 3-wire magneto

General 5 Star ST step thru mopeds (Sachs 505 engine), made by Jui Li: General 5-Star ST wiring “early” version is functionally the same as the top tank models, because of the 3-wire Bosch magneto, configured to charge the battery from the ignition ground. With this version, if you removed the battery, or it went bad from sitting, the ignition would loose spark. The General 5-Star ST wiring “late” version instead charges the battery from the main lights wire and has the ignition ground always grounded, so it never looses spark even when the battery is removed. The trade-off for that increase in reliability is a slightly dimmer headlight, which is also a good thing because it helps prevent headlight burn out.

General look alikes:

Grycner mopeds are identical to General step thru, but have Bosch 5-wire magnetos, with internal ignition ground, and slightly different wiring. 

Unbranded generic Jui Li step thru and top tank mopeds are identical to General. Their wiring and magneto is unknown.

AMS Sierra 50 step thru and Tahoe 50 top tank, are made by Her Chee, not Jui Li. They have wiring compatible with General ST, and a Bosch-compatible 3-wire 90mm Taigene magneto. AMS has the later Sachs 505/1D rather than 505/1A.

Grycner Wiring Diagram
Sachs 505/1A engine
Bosch 5-wire magneto
internal ignition ground

AMS Wiring Illustrated
Sachs 505/1D engine
Taigene 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

General Battery Versions: All Generals and Grycners use a 6N4B-2A flat 6 volt battery. Notice in the “General 5 Star Versions” photo above how the original top tank wiring came with different battery wire connectors, either male or female bullet. Besides that the modern replacement batteries have different wires than the original batteries did. See above section “B” about Battery Wires.

Gilera 106 SS (1967) Sears Allstate (US model) has a CEV 6826 3-wire points magneto with external ignition ground on the green wire. If that wire is disconnected there will be no spark.

Sears (Gilera) 106 SS

Foxi Wiring: There are four kinds of Foxi mopeds, made in a different countries with different wirings.

1) Sparta Foxi, made in Holland.

2) KTM Foxi, made in Austria.

3) Testi Foxi, made in Italy, see M: Minarelli Wiring.

4) Jui Li Foxi, made in Taiwan, see G: General Wiring.  

Foxi, Flying Dutchman ’76-78 (US model, made by Sparta)
Bosch 4-wire magneto, internal ignition ground

Foxi ’77-80 (US model, made by KTM)
CEV or Motoplat magneto, external ignition ground

Flying Dutchman Wiring:There are two kinds of Flying Dutchman mopeds, made in a different countries with different wirings.

1) Sparta Flying Dutchman, made in Holland.

2) Kynast Flying Dutchman, made in Germany.

Flying Dutchman ’78-81 (US model, made by Sparta)
Motoplat 3-wire magneto, external ignition ground

Flying Dutchman (US model, made by Kynast)
Bosch 4-wire magneto, internal ignition ground

Free Spirit Wiring: The Free Spirit line was sold by Sears department stores in 1978-81. They did not say Sears anywhere on the bike. In fact there are no brand markings or names anywhere, except the ID plate and the back of the seat, that says “Free Spirit”. See Sears Free Spirit Wiring.

Eagle Wiring: Eagle mopeds were made by Hercules in about 1980-82 and sold in USA and Canada. Eagle I and II are Sachs Suburbans (I has spoke wheels, II has mags), and Eagle III is a Sachs Prima G3 (top tank). They have a Sachs 505 one speed engine (1D for 30mph, 1A for 25mph, 1B for 20mph) with a Bosch 3-wire magneto, external ignition ground. Always ground the blue black magneto wire first if there is no spark. See Sachs Wiring for a way better version of this wiring diagram.

Eagle I, II, and III Wiring (made by Hercules), Bosch 3-wire magneto, external ignition ground

Daelim Wiring: Daelim Motor Corp (DMC) made Trac mopeds for the US in the 1980’s. See Trac Wiring.

Dansi Magneto: These 3-wire magnetos are used on Benelli, Morini and Rizzato moped engines. Dansi magnetos are included here in wirings because of the number that is stamped onto the 80mm ID flywheel. That number determines the brake light wiring, brake light switches, and tail/brake light type, and more importantly, whether or not it has a “secret” wire that needs to be grounded. Dansi 101286 (anti-clockwise) and 101441 (clockwise) wires are: red = ignition, black = lights, green = brake light. Dansi 101765 (anti-clockwise) and 101732 (anti-clockwise?) wires are: red = ignition, black = lights, green = ignition ground (brake light). If you have an external ignition ground type 101765 or 101732, always ground the green wire first, when checking for spark. See Morini Wiring.  

Dansi magnetos

Demm Wiring: Demm Smily, US models 1976-78 have Demm one-speed engines with CEV 6933 magnetos. The blue magneto wire is an ignition ground that also powers the brake light.

Demm Smily (US model)

Derbi Wiring: Derbi mopeds, US models 1976-1989, except the DS50, have Motoplat 3-wire magnetos with points, and an external ignition ground on the blue wire powering the brake light. Inside the tail/brake light is a secret hidden ignition ground resistor. If that goes bad, or the wire leading to it, the ignition will loose spark when the brakes are applied. If any of the brake switch wires are also disconnected, then there will no spark all the time. The front ignition ground junction is on the right headlight mount, which is floating in rubber. The rear ignition ground is on the left rear fender bolt, underneath. Both of those places get corroded or loose. Ground the blue wire from the engine first, when checking for spark. Then all those rusty loose grounds don’t matter. That disables the brake light, for emergency or troubleshooting.

Derbi Variant 1976-86, SL, SLE, RD50, Laguna
Motoplat 3-wire magneto, external ignition ground

Derbi Variant Sport 86-89, 6V AC voltage regulator
Motoplat 3-wire magneto, external ignition ground

Derbi Variant Sport 86-89, 6V AC voltage regulator
Motoplat 3-wire magneto, external ignition ground

Derbi DS50 1987-89, moped-scooter has a floor and retractable pedals
12V AC voltage regulator, Motoplat CDI magneto, electric start

Derbi DS50 main switch (ignition) has 20mm mount hole

Carabela wiring: 

Cateye Turn Signals: Cateye turn signal kits, made in Japan, were an add-on accessory. They had a rechargeable 5.5 volt Ni-Cad battery pack, mounted with the front two lights on a chrome bar that clamped onto a moped handlebar. All of those original batteries died in the early 1990’s.

Cat Eye BL700
Turn Signal Set p1

Cat Eye BL700
Turn Signal Set p2

Cat Eye BL700
Turn Signals p3

Cat Eye BL700
Turn Signals p4

CDI Wiring: 

Cimatti Wiring: Cimatti, with the Minarelli V1 engine,  has functionally the same as the “Minarelli Wiring”, except for the high-low beam headlight, the console light/horn switch, and the secret toggle switch under the headlight that grounds the blue wire when in the forward position. 

Cimatti City Bike Wiring
CEV 3-wire magneto, external ignition ground

Cimatti City Bike with large console light switch
CEV 3-wire magneto, external ignition ground

Concord (Fantic) Wiring: Concord mopeds with Minarelli V1 engines have “Minarelli Wiring”. The ignition source ground powers the brake light and must be grounded to run. There is a secret resistor inside the tail light. When that burns out the engine dies when the brakes are applied.

Concord Wiring, 1980 Freedom, Invader
CEV 3-wire magneto external ignition ground

Colombia Wiring: American-made Colombia mopeds can have two different frames, mono-tube and stamped sheet, and two different engines, Sachs 505 or Solo belt drive. But they all have the same Bosch 5-wire 90mm magneto, same wiring and electrical equipment, except for the headlight. Blue is ignition, green and green/black are brake light, yellow is head light, and grey is tail light.

Colombia Wiring Diagram for all US moped models
Sachs 505 or Solo engine, Bosch 5-wire magneto, internal ignition ground

Invisible Forces: Notice that on the Colombia (and others) the tail light gray wire goes straight from the generator/magneto to the light, and not through the light switch. You would think the tail light would then stay on all the time. The small tail light generating coil is close to the larger head light generating coil. Somehow the magnetic field changes around the head light coil when the light is switched on, and that energizes the nearby tail light coil. So the tail light only works when the head light is working. This prevents tail light burn out caused by overload from a burned out headlight. On other 70’s mopeds, when their head light burns out, the tail light gets super bright, and dies.

Furthermore on mopeds with a Bosch 90mm magneto with grey tail light wire, such as Puch, Batavus, Colombia, the headlight bulb is preferably a 6 volt 21 watt (#1129). If it’s a 12 volt 21 watt (#1156), the headlight won’t be as bright, and since it passes less current, the tail light won’t be as bright either. That’s weird. Besides that the tail light bulb needs to be a 6 volt 5 watt #63, or else it will be dim, especially at idle.

Batavus Wiring (early): The 1976-78 models with Laura M48 engine have a 90mm Bosch 5-wire magneto on the right. Those have an internal ignition ground. None of the lights matter for the ignition to have spark. Head light (yellow), tail light (grey), and brake light (green) each have their own generator coils.

Batavus VA, HS50, Mobat, Bronco, Starflite
without turn signals 1976-78, M48 engine
Bosch 5-wire magneto, internal ignition ground

Batavus VA, HS50, Mobat, Bronco, Starflite
deluxe w/turn signals 1976-78, M48 engine
Bosch 5-wire magneto, internal ignition ground

Batavus Wiring (late): The 1978-80 models with Laura M56 engine have a 80mm Bosch 3-wire magneto on the left side. Those have an external ignition ground. That blue/black wire powers the brake light. Consequently there is a special brake light resistor inside the light. While the early ULO 2-bulb tail light did not have a facility for holding a resistor, the later ULO 2-bulb tail light did. In fact there was not just a resistor, but a small circuit board with a nichrome-wire-coil resistor, and a diode. Otherwise the ignition looses spark if the blue/black becomes disconnected.  

Batavus Regency Wiring 1978-80, M56 engine
Bosch 3-wire magneto, external ignition ground

Batavus HS50 Canada model 

Battery Wires: For vintage Taiwan-made mopeds with 6 volt batteries, General, Lazer, Angel, Speed Bird, Indian, AMS, Clinton, Grycner, and others, getting the correct battery, 6N2-2A or 6N4B-2A is easier than getting the correct battery wires. In the 1980’s, new replacement batteries had vintage moped wires (double female bullet and male blade or bullet, male bullet). In the 1990’s and 2000’s the replacement battery wires changed, see illustration. In the 2010’s the wires changed again to “universal” (female bullet, female bullet plus an assortment of plug-in adapter wires, all bullet connectors). But the assortment does not contain enough to make vintage moped battery wires. To make those from the assortment, cutting, soldering, and shrink-wrapping is required.

Some vintage mopeds have had the bike’s wires adapted to accept a modern battery. Because of so many possible wires, since the 1990’s Myrons has always transferred the old battery wires onto the new battery, whenever the old wires were available. When unavailable, adapter wires were made, mostly from wire scraps. So many have been made, that almost no traces of the old style battery wires survive at Myrons Mopeds, out of hundreds of moped wire scraps.

Battery Wire Versions, Taiwan 6V Mopeds

6 Volt Battery Chart by Yuasa (2008)

Benelli Wiring: The Benelli G2 moped has a Dansi 3-wire 80mm magneto, with an external ignition ground on the green wire, ignition on the red wire, and lights on the black wire. The Benelli Dynamo mini motorcycle also has a Dansi magneto. More on Benelli soon …

Bianchi Wiring: Bianchi mopeds, US models with Morini MO1 engines, all have Dansi magneto type 101732. This magneto is essentially the same as the 101765 3-wire 2-coil, with external ignition ground on the green wire. Ground the green wire to get spark before suspecting anything else. 

AMF Wiring: This wiring info is for the AMF Roadmaster models 110, 115, 120, 125 with McCullough rear friction drive engine, not the models 140, 141 with Minarelli V1 mid-engine and chain drive.

AMF 110,115,115KM

AMF 120, 125, 130

AMF stator

AMF 110 wiring

AMF CDI Ignition Upgrade

AMS Wiring: AMS Sierra 50 (step thru), Tahoe G1 (top tank) and Tahoe G2 (top tank 2 speed manual) have the same wiring as General 5 Star ST, except with a Taigene magneto, 3-wire with external ignition ground blue/black for battery charging, no ignition switch in the fork lock, and possibly minor differences in some connectors and grounds. Always ground the blue/black if there is no spark.  

The Taigene FP43 90mm 3-wire magneto is Bosch-compatible. Too bad it was prone to loose spark, even with the blue/black wire grounded and the points functioning. Some needed upgraded to an actual Bosch magneto.  

AMS & Angel Battery Versions: Angel/Speed Birds use a 6N2-2A small 6 volt battery, AMS uses a 6N4B-2A. Modern replacement batteries have different wires than the original ones did. See section “B” Battery Wires. 

AMS motor, Sachs 505/1D
3-wire Taigene magneto, Bosch compatible
blue, blue/black, yellow
Honda points & puller tool

AMS wiring illustrated, Sachs 505/1D engine
Taigene 3-wire mag, external ignition ground

Angel: 1970’s Angel and Speed Bird mopeds, made in Taiwan by TYM, can have three different magnetos and two different wirings. These all have Ø90-three-M4-screw stator plates, and Ø90 (90mm ID) flywheel-rotors.

1) Bosch 0212-112-053, with brown (external ignition ground), yellow, black wires. The brown wire is the “tail” of the ignition source coil, and must always go to ground to have spark. It helps to power the headlight. So the headlight or headlight wires can cause the ignition to loose spark. 

2) Wtemco FHA ?????, with brown (external ignition ground), yellow, black wires. This whole magneto interchanges with Bosch 0212-112-053, but the internal coils are different. The flywheel, stator plate, points, condenser, the wire colors and wire plugs are all the same.

3) Wtemco FHA 11035, (internal ignition ground) with red, yellow, and black wires. This is the same as the other Wtemco magneto, except for the source coils (armatures). The headlight wiring is different from the others, in that the yellow does not get help from the ignition ground. This would make the headlight dimmer, but at the same time there is a separate output for battery charging, so the headlight gets brighter from that. The net effect is slightly dimmer.

Angel Wiring 1) and 2) Wtemco or Bosch 3-wire, external ignition ground

1) Bosch 0212-112-053
external ignition ground

3) Wtemco FHA-11035, internal ignition ground

Avanti Wiring: Early 2000’s Avanti mopeds have a 90mm 50W Seel magneto, made in India, with modern CDI electronic ignition. Mont and Autopower have 12VAC one-wire for all lights, with an electronic voltage (shunt) regulator. Kobra has 12VAC on 3 separate lighting wires, with no external regulator.

Avanti controls are copies of late 1980’s Italian made Domino controls, used on Trac, Tomos, Derbi. The switches are copies of late 1980’s Italian made CEV switches, that integrate (fit into) the mounts for the controls (brakes, start, and throttle). The switch buttons use the same white international icons, rather than words. 

The original switches for domestic (India) models did not have a handlebar mounted engine stop switch, reachable by the right thumb while holding handlebar grip. The older wiring diagram for Kobra shows this. Only the key on the dash would turn off the motor. But on at least the Supersport model, and maybe also on some Autopowers and Monts, they made the right side headlight high-low beam switch into a engine stop switch, in order to meet the US DOT requirement. This has been the source of confusion. (Turn on the high beam or it won’t start?)

These three wirings took 24 hours to interpret, colorize, re-draw and clean up. The originals were very rough.

Avanti Supersport (top tank) Wiring
Seel 4-wire CDI magneto

Avanti Autopower and Avanti Mont Wiring
Garelli-clone engine, Seel 4-wire CDI magneto

Avanti Kobra 3G, Garelli 2-speed clone
Seel 6-wire CDI magneto

Avanti Autopower motor
Seel 4-wire 50 watt CDI magneto, made in India

A  AMF, AMS, Angel, Avanti

B  Batavus, battery, Benelli, Bianchi

C  Cateye, Cimatti, Concord, Columbia

D  Daelim, Dansi, Demm, Derbi

E  Eagle

F  Foxi, Flying Dutchman

G  Garelli, General, Gilera

H  Harley Davidson, Hercules, Honda

I   Indian, Intramotor

J  Jawa, JC Penney

K  Kinetic, Korado, Kreidler, KTM, Kynast

L  Lazer

M Manet, Minarelli, Morini, Motobecane

M Moto Guzzi, Motron, Murray

N  Negrini, NVT

O  Odyssey

P  Pacer, Peugeot, Piaggio, Puch

R  Rizzato

S  Sachs, Sears, Solex,
S  Soni, Sparta, Suzuki

T  Tomos, Trac

U  Universal

V  Vespa

W Wards Riverside

Y  Yamaha

Z  Zanetti, Zundapp

Welcome to Myrons Wiring Diagrams. Mopeds have strange electrical wiring. Many have “secret” wires that must be grounded to run. Many have switches that normally would turn off something, but instead they turn on something (brake light or horn). Most of the wiring diagrams explain this, when it applies.

This “secret wire that must be grounded to run” system is only on most 1970’s and 1980’s US models. The reason for this craziness is that European mopeds do not need brake lights, but US ones do. So many kinds power the brake light from the back side of the ignition source coil.

One kind, Puch 77-later, 6-wire, powers the horn from the back side of the ignition source coil. So on a 77-on Puch, if you unplug the horn and push the horn button, the engine dies.

Besides loosing spark, older mopeds also often burn out light bulbs. That is because a magneto generator alone, without a battery or regulator, ranges from dim lights at idle, to bright at full speed. So your bulbs are either too dim, or else they burn out a lot.

Modern (1990-later) mopeds don’t have the old moped wiring problems. They run a more powerful magneto, 70-80 watts instead of 30-40. All the lights run off one wire, with a 12VAC voltage regulator. To keep the voltage below about 13V, the regulator passes any excess current into the frame where it’s mounted. So when most of the lights are off, the frame is being warmed a lttle. This “regulation by wasting” system is common on motorcycles but not automobiles.

Also nothing that the lights do ever matters to the ignition. Magneto ignitions after about 1993 are CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) instead of points. They’re also maintainence free and have easier starting.  

A39. 22x1 female spigot back long shaft

A39 22×1 female spigot back long shaft  N/A
←reserve  on↓ off→  made in Slovakia

Korado petcock

1999 Puch Korado blue

1996 Korado white

A39b. 22x1 female spigot back medium shaft

A39b 22×1 female spigot back medium shaft  N/A
←reserve  on↓ off→  made in Italy by OMG