Operating Costs and Gas Mileage

March 10, 2010

A new Tomos moped is extremely efficient. Gas mileage is over 100 miles per gallon, twice that of the most efficient automobile, and twice as much as a large motorcycle. They get 100 mpg when driven in city at full throttle all the time. When they are on the highway at 3/4 throttle they get 130-150mpg. On Feb 1 2007 Shaun bought a new Tomos ST (A55 engine) blue, for his personal transportation, and carefully recorded the first 25 gasoline fill ups, until July 19. The table below shows the itemized fuel consumption of a new Tomos: 2007 miles per 19.35 gallons, equals 103.7 mpg average. 2007 miles in 175 days equals 11.5 miles per day, average. 5 to 20 miles per day is typical for moped commuting.

 

Two views of the test bike and ride leader, equipped with rear basket, ice chest, air horn, clipboard with map, and a conductive loop wire hanging low underneath for making loop detecting red lights turn green.

# Date Method Gallons Odo MPG Calc. Comment
*** ******* *********** ******* ***** ************** ********************
0 1-Feb not full 0.4 2
1 1-Feb topped off 0.74 50 went slow 1st 60 mi
2 10-Feb topped off 0.86 154 240/2.0 = 120 normal commuting
3 20-Feb not full 0.72 240
4 28-Feb not full 0.85 310
5 4-Mar topped off 0.57 357
6 6-Mar topped off 0.55 414 57/.55 = 103 normal commuting
7 13-Mar topped off 0.83 500 86/.83 = 104 normal commuting
8 25-Mar not full 0.76 578
9 25-Mar topped off 0.61 640 140/1.37=102 normal commuting
10 1-Apr topped off 0.77 719 79/.77 = 103 normal commuting
11 1-Apr topped off 0.85 810 91/.85 = 107 normal commuting
12 7-Apr topped off 0.69 883 73/.69 = 106 normal commuting
13 20-Apr topped off 0.82 963
14 28-Apr topped off 0.85 1049 86/.85 = 101 normal commuting
15 6-May topped off 0.77 1128 79/.77 = 103 normal commuting
16 10-May topped off 0.83 1214 86/.83 = 104 normal commuting
17 16-May not full 0.89 1301
18 25-May not full 0.85 1390
19 6-Jun topped off 0.87 1472 258/2.61=99 normal commuting
20 14-Jun topped off 0.85 1561 89/.85 = 105 normal commuting
21 17-Jun topped off 0.84 1655 94/.84 = 112 cruising 1/2 the time
22 26-Jun topped off 0.85 1743 88/.85 = 104 normal commuting
23 6-Jul topped off 0.89 1831 88/.89 = 99 normal commuting
24 12-Jul not full 0.83 1924 93/.83 = 112 cruising 1/2 the time
25 19-Jul topped off 2007 83/.84 = 99
*** ******* *********** ******* ***** ************** ********************
TOTALS 19.34 2007 103.8

During the first 2007 miles, the 2007 Tomos ST consumed 19.34 gallons. At $5.00 per gallon that’s $96.70

It’s two stroke oil injection consumed an estimated 50 ounces of oil. At $4.00 per 12.5 ounces that’s $16.00

Half a year of liability insurance costs $50. Scheduled maintenance costs $25. (1 oil change + 3 chain adjusts)

Total Operating Costs for the first half year:  96.70 + 16.00 + 50.00 + 25.00 = $187.70

Compare with a typical pickup or SUV at 10.4 mpg. Gas consumed 193 gal. At $5.00 per gallon that’s $967.00

Half a year of liability insurance on a new truck costs $400. Scheduled mainenance costs, none.

Half a year of vehicle registration costs $80. Parking costs not included.

Total Operating Costs for a new truck or SUV: 967.00 + 400.00 + 80.00 = $1447.00

The moped saves 1447.00 – 187.70 = $1259.30 every six months (2007 miles), with gas at $5.00/gal. Wow!

Everyone’s operating costs are different. Calculate your own savings using this example.

One customer, Todd, who often rides a 2005 Sprint (A35 engine) from Phelan, near Victorville CA, in the high desert, through the Cajon Pass, all the way to Costa Mesa, at the coast. When his exhaust was stock he would get 121 mpg, cruising at 25mph most of the time. When he changed to a Biturbo exhaust, chrome and gold shown above, his mileage went up to 143 miles per gallon, cruising slow on dirt and paved roads in the desert, where there is no stopping for traffic lights. With the performance exhaust he was able to go the same speed, 25 mph, but with only about 2/3 as much throttle. When he rides in the city, with frequent stop lights, he goes 35mph most of the time, and gets an estimated 100 mpg.  

Adding in Maintenance Costs:

From the Maintenance Chart, total maintenance for 27,000 miles is $1777 to $3087. 

Add in additional costs, not in chart $200+$500, for 27,000 miles is $2477 to $3787.

Gasoline cost: 27,000/100mpg=270 gallons x $4.00/gal = $1080 for 27,000 miles

2-Cycle Oil cost: 27,000 x 12.5oz/500mi = 675 ounces x $3.00/12.5oz = $162 for 27,000 miles

Total “scheduled” costs: $1080 + $162 + ($2477 to $3787) = $3719 to $5029 for 27,000 miles

Driving 100 miles per month for 270 months (22.5 years): $13.77 to $18.63 per month,

Driving 300 miles per month for 90 months (7.5 years): $41.32 to $55.88 per month,

Driving 450 miles per month for 60 months (5.0 years): $61.98 to $83.82 per month,

Driving 600 miles per month for 45 months (3.8 years): $82.64 to $111.75 per month

Add to this liability insurance $120/year or $10/month. Registration $20 for life.

Add “unscheduled” costs, like flat tires, mishaps, other wear and tear.

Bottom line is it’s very economical.

 


Maintenance of a New Tomos

March 9, 2010

Welcome to the New Tomos A55 Maintenance Schedule. This information is both for you, the prospective buyer, to make an informed decision about whether a Tomos machine is worth buying, and for you, the Tomos A55 2007-later moped owners new and old, to know when and what maintenance things need to be done, and how much each thing costs (estimated). 

To begin, here are general principles about how to makes things last longer and reduce your operating costs.  
 
TIRES: Tires last longer if they’re kept inflated, if they’re used on smooth streets, and if they have less weight on them. Wider and taller tires last longer than narrow and shorter ones. Gravel roads or doing skids, slides, burnouts wears them out. The front outlasts the back by 3 to 1 because it has about 1/3 as much weight on it. It also gets much less flats. 
BRAKES: Brakes last longer when they’re used less often, by looking and thinking way ahead, like the way a big rig driver does. Dont speed up if your gonna have to slow down soon. Slow down early by coasting. Conserve momentum by “never” stopping at the bottom of a driveway or valley, but rather than fight gravity, let it help by stopping at the top of the hill, or before the dip or valley, whenever possible. 
CLUTCHES: Clutches would last forever going at a steady cruising speed. It’s the stop and go that wears them out. The first speed clutch gets the bike moving forward from a dead stop. Revving the engine while stopped, causing the bike to want to move forward, wears out the 1st speed clutch shoes. So does having the idle speed adjusted way too high. The fastest way to wear out, or tear the cork lining off, the first speed clutch shoes, is not allow the bike to move forward, while giving it full throttle, like climbing a steep hill at 5 mph with a lot of weight, or the brakes on. Once the speed gets above about 15mph (10mph for stock gearing), it begins to shift automatically into second gear. During the transition from first to second, it’s the second speed centrifugal clutch thats slipping. Driving over 20mph makes your clutches last “forever”. Driving at speeds from 10 to 20 makes your second speed clutch wear out. Driving under 10mph makes your first speed clutch wear out. Less weight makes the them last longer. Try to anticipate what’s coming up ahead, so you don’t speed up unnecessarily and then have to slow down. It saves gas and brakes too.
 

At assembly: Round off sharp corners of brake cams and add a spec of grease. Prevents grooves forming and improves braking. Prevents drum brake shoes from needing replaced often, from grooves in the plates. Prevents sticking and some squealing. See Assembly and Preparation section.

Every gas fill up (90 octane minimum): Check engine oil under seat, it’s slowly consumed (two cycle with oil injection). We suggest Champion Two Cycle Power Equipment oil, sold at Myrons Mopeds and at some lawnmower shops.

Every 500 miles: Check/Adjust/Lube chain. Check/Add Air to tires, 25-30 psi front, 35-40 psi rear.

 Tomos A55 Maintenance Chart:

Based on Myrons Mopeds many hundreds of Tomos sales and thousands of services over the last 20 or more years.

A low estimate and a high estimate of parts lifetimes is given, to have a wide application to most people. Most people would be somewhere between the “all short lifetime” heavy, rough, and careless crowd and the “all long lifetime” light, gentle, and careful clan. A few people will lie outside the high and low estimates.

******  | ****** *****  | ******* ********** ***** *******  | ******* ********** ***** *******  |
KEY  | see  | N=new 1=1st spd  | N=new 1=1st spd  |
 | below  | F or R 2=2nd spd  | F or R 2=2nd spd  |
 |  | S = shoes  | S = shoes  |
 |  | A = assy  | A = assy  |
******  | ****** *****  | ******* ********** ***** *******  | ******* ********** ***** *******  |
 |  | …..Total  | …..Total  |
 |  | …..Costs  | …..Costs  |
Miles  | Chain Trans  | Brakes Clutches Tires …..for  | Brakes Clutches Tires …..for  |
 | Adjust Oil  | Short Short Short …..Short  | Long Long Long …..Long  |
 | +Lube (ATF)  | Life Life Life …..Life  | Life Life Life …..Life  |
******  | ****** *****  | ******* ********** ***** *******  | ******* ********** ***** *******  |
0  |  |  |  |
500  | adjust $15  | $15  | $15  |
1000  | adjust  | $15  | $15  |
1500  | adjust  | $15  | $15  |
2000  | adjust $15  | Flip R R $65 $95  | $30  |
2500  | adjust  | $95  | $30  |
3000  | adjust  | N $45 1S $120 $260  | $30  |
3500  | adjust  | $260  | $30  |
4000  | $37 $15  | Flip R R $65 $377  | Flip R R $65 $147  |
4500  | adjust  | $377  | $147  |
5000  | adjust  | $377  | $147  |
5500  | adjust  | $377  | $147  |
6000  | adjust $0  | N $45 1A2S $210 R $65 $697  | N $45 1S $120 $312  |
******  | ****** *****  | ******* ********** ***** *******  | ******* ********** ***** *******  |
6500  | adjust  | $697  | $312  |
7000  | adjust  | $697  | $312  |
7500  | adjust  | Flip F F $65 $762  | $312  |
8000  | $37 $15  | Flip R R $65 $879  | Flip R R $65 $429  |
8500  | adjust  | $879  | $429  |
9000  | adjust  | N $45 1S $120 $1,044  | $429  |
9500  | adjust  | $1,044  | $429  |
10000  | adjust $15  | Flip R R $65 $1,124  | $444  |
10500  | adjust  | $1,124  | $444  |
11000  | adjust  | $1,124  | Flip F F $65 $509  |
11500  | adjust  | $1,124  | $509  |
12000  | $37 $0  | N $45 1A2A $255 R $65 $1,526  | N $45 1A2S $210 R $65 $866  |
******  | ****** *****  | ******* ********** ***** *******  | ******* ********** ***** *******  |
12500  | adjust  | $1,526  | $866  |
13000  | adjust  | $1,526  | $866  |
13500  | adjust  | $1,526  | $866  |
14000  | adjust $15  | Flip R R $65 $1,606  | $881  |
14500  | adjust  | $1,606  | $881  |
15000  | adjust  | N $45 1S $120 F $65 $1,836  | $881  |
15500  | adjust  | $1,836  | $881  |
16000  | $37 $15  | Flip R R $65 $1,953  | Flip R R $65 $998  |
16500  | adjust  | $1,953  | $998  |
17000  | adjust  | $1,953  | $998  |
17500  | adjust  | $1,953  | $998  |
18000  | adjust $0  | N $45 1A2S $210 R $65 $2,273  | N $45 1S $120 $1,163  |
******  | ****** *****  | ******* ********** ***** *******  | ******* ********** ***** *******  |
18500  | adjust  | $2,273  | $1,163  |
19000  | adjust  | $2,273  | $1,163  |
19500  | adjust  | $2,273  | $1,163  |
20000  | $37 $15  | Flip R R $65 $2,390  | Flip R R $65 $1,280  |
20500  | adjust  | $2,390  | $1,280  |
21000  | adjust  | N $45 1S $120 $2,555  | $1,280  |
21500  | adjust  | $2,555  | $1,280  |
22000  | adjust $15  | Flip R R $65 $2,635  | Flip F F $65 $1,360  |
22500  | adjust  | Flip F F $65 $2,700  | $1,360  |
23000  | adjust  | $2,700  | $1,360  |
23500  | adjust  | $2,700  | $1,360  |
24000  | $37 $0  | N $45 1A $160 R $65 $3,007  | N $45 1A2A $255 R $65 $1,762  |
******  | ****** *****  | ******* ********** ***** *******  | ******* ********** ***** *******  |
24500  | adjust  | $3,007  | $1,762  |
25000  | adjust  | $3,007  | $1,762  |
25500  | adjust  | $3,007  | $1,762  |
26000  | adjust $15  | Flip R R $65 $3,087  | $1,777  |
26500  | adjust  | $3,087  | $1,777  |
27000  |  | $3,087  | $1,777  |
 
 Wow. That’s a lot of money and a huge mileage, spread over several years of daily use.
Go to “Gas Mileage and Operating Costs” to see the merging of these maintenance costs with other costs. 
 

Explanation of Abbreviations and Procedures

CHAIN: $37 means a new replacement is $20 parts, about $2 tax, and $15 labor, total $37.

CHAIN: Adjust means the owner periodically adjusts and lubes the chain. With the axle nuts loosened, the spirals are rotated slightly to make the rear wheel move back a little, taking up the slack that gradually develops over time. The left and right sides are move the same amount, to make the wheel straight in the frame. The centerline of the rear tire should be in line with the center of the motorcycle, using the fender as a visual guide. Or also the sides of the swingarm should each be about half a finger width on each side, where the tire comes closest.

TRANS OIL $15 means new transmission oil (ATF) is $15, parts and labor. This is different from the 2-cycle engine oil.

TRANS OIL: $0 means new transmission oil (ATF) is free, put in during the clutch/transmission service.

BRAKES: Flip means, for either the R or F wheel, reversing the left and right brake shoes, and lubing the cam with two specks of grease. This exposes the unused part of the brake plate, where grooves develop, especially from sharp-cornered brake cams. This is done, often free of charge, when the wheel is off, getting a new tire. Without flipping the brakes eventually start to stick, or not grab, or squeal more. The brake shoes snap in like folding a taco into a flat tortilla.

BRAKES: N $45 means new brakes, front or rear (not both). Parts $23, tax $2, labor $20, total $45. The front and rear brakes behave differently, and are used in different situations. They dont need to be changed both at the same time, like left and right sides of a car. Some people wear out the front faster, and some wear out the rear brakes faster.

CLUTCH: 1S $120 means 1st speed clutch shoes $45, J-spring $3, gasket $4 = $52 parts, $4 tax, $66 labor, $120 total

CLUTCH: 1A $160 means 1st speed clutch assy $80, J-spring $3, gasket $4 = $87 parts, $6 tax, $67 labor, $160 total

CLUTCH: 1A2S $210 means 1st spd assy $80, J & g $7, 2nd spd shoes $45 = $132 parts, $10 tax, $68 labor, $210 total

CLUTCH: 1A2A $255 means 1st spd assy $80, J & g $7, 2nd spd assy $90 = $177 parts, $14 tax, $64 labor, $255 total

PISTON RINGS:  They have been left out of this chart. They probably should be replaced every 10,000 or 15,000. So far, only one person with a stock cylinder with over 15,000 miles has worn out their rings, so it seems like they last longer than most other components. The stock A55 cylinder 50cc has a very good heat dissipation (looks like a 100cc) and super hard, low friction cylinder wall. It’s amazing how long the piston and rings last. Most moped rings last 5000 to 8000 miles. So maybe add $200 to the 27,000 mile maintenance cost, for two piston ring replacements, with top end decarbonization.

TRANSMISSION GEARS: They have been left out of this chart. They can get damaged, by unusual things, like the chain coming off, or excessive chattering during the shift (itself a result of low trans oil), an engine seizure, or debris from one chipped gear tooth can damage the other gears. Each gear or shaft is $40 to $70, and the drum with gear is $90 plus $30 for “balancing” it. So all new gears, not including the innermost one called the drive shaft, costs around $400, a hefty price. Replacing a driveshaft costs an additional $130+$200=$330. Sometimes during a bikes lifetime, a Tomos owner has to face some of these extra transmission repairs. So maybe add $500 to the maintenance cost for 27,000 miles, for transmission gears.

 

 


Owners Manual Supplement

January 14, 2010

TOMOS BASICS for USA Models 2007-on (A55 engine)

  1. TOMOS means TOvarna MOtornih koles Sezana (motorbike factory in Sezana, Slovenia).
  2. Warranty is 6 month/4000 mile limited. Owner must send in the warranty registration card located in the owner’s manual to activate the warranty on a brand new Tomos.
  3. Engine is the A55 two-cycle 49cc  single, EPA and CARB compliant with catalytic exhaust. Speed is 30mph. Horsepower is 2hp. Transmission is two-speed fully automatic.
  4. Pedals go forward for hybrid human/motor propulsion. Pedaling speed is 5 to 10 mph. Pedals kick backward for starting engine. Pedal forward to put pedals in kick position.
  5. Gasoline is 91 octane premium unleaded. Only Sprint model is pre-mixed with oil 50:1 or 2.5 ounces per gallon. All other models have oil injection and use straight gasoline.
  6. Gas tank size: LX 1.5gal   Sprint, ST 1gal.  Arrow, Revival, Streetmate .75gal. On the LX and ST locking gas lid, only the key turns, counterclockwise to open.  On ’05-08 Arrow, Revival, Streetmate the gas lid is push in. It pulls straight out. Sometimes it’s tight. After 2008 all gas lids are quarter-turn type.
  7. Gas valve is a manual fuel tap or shut off. It is located above the engine on the left side of the bike. It has three positions, off (horizontal), on (down), up (reserve). Use on during normal operation. Use off when not operating. Use reserve if you “run out of gas”. Reserve lasts 4 to 10 miles. Don’t forget to put it back to “on” after you gas up.
  8. Gas level is checked by opening the gas lid, looking, shaking, and listening. There is no gas gauge. On the LX you can see the whole tank. On the ST and Sprint you can see half way. On the others you can only see the first fourth. Many people choose to install a clear hose branching up from the fuel line. It serves as a gas gauge. The liquid level in the tube is the level in the tank. Gas tank vent: On Arrow/Revival/Streetmate models the gas tank is inside the frame, which is U-shaped. On one end of the “U” is the fill hole, where you add gas. On the other end of the “U” is a vent to let air in and out. It normally lets a tiny amount of air pass but not enough during refueling. When adding gas, the gas tank vent, a black spring-loaded push button, needs to be pushed each time the tank seems full to let any air escape allowing more room for gasoline. It makes a hiss sound. When the ¾ gallon tank seems full and the vent no longer hisses then it’s truly full.
  9. Gas mileage (mpg) is 100 miles per gallon, going 37mph on city streets. If you’re larger, have hills, rough roads, stop and go, your mpg (and range) will be less. If you’re smaller, more aerodynamic, and go slow, your mpg (and range) will be more.
  10. Gas range:  LX 125mi  Sprint, ST 85mi  Arrow, Revival, Streetmate 60mi. Means topped off to hitting reserve, 160lb rider on smooth flat city streets.
  11. Oil is two-cycle oil. It’s slowly consumed by burning along with the gasoline. Use a good brand, preferably synthetic, like Champion weed wacker oil. Without the oil the two-cycle engine will get hot, melt the sides of the piston, and “seize”, with a scary skid.
  12. Oil tank is under the seat, except Sprint, which is premixed in the gas. It doesn’t matter how much oil is in it, only that there always is some. Check the oil level at each gas fill-up. After several gas fill-ups it will need an oil fill-up. 13 ounces lasts about 5 gallons.
  13. Steering lock is on the left front of the frame. To lock, put the steering almost all the way to the right, push the key in while turning it to the right. Move the steering slightly until it finds the hole and goes down 3/8 inch. To unlock, turn the key to the left, pull up, and wiggle the steering if necessary.
  14. Keys: Sprint = steering lock only (2), no ignition key. No battery to turn off.
  15. Keys: ST/LX = steering lock (2) and gas lid (2), no ignition key. No battery to turn off.
  16. Keys: Arrow = steering lock and ignition (2). Turn off ignition and battery after use.
  17. Keys: Revival = steering lock, seat, and ignition (2). Turn off ign & battery after use.
  18. Keys: Streetmate = steering lock, seat, trunk, ignition (2). Turn off ign & bat after use.  Main key switch, also known as “the ignition”, on Revival is on left top of the fake gas tank. On Arrow and Streetmate it’s under the left side of the seat.
  19. Choke is manual. It’s needs to be on (flipped up) for starting when the engine is cold. After a few seconds, when the engine is warmed up, it needs to be off (flipped down). In winter, temp 40 F, the choke is left on for the first two blocks. For normal temp 70 F, the choke is left on for 10 seconds. In hot summer, temp 100 F, it’s not needed at all. Never leave it idling for long periods with the choke on or it will become “flooded”. Never use the choke when the engine is warm or it will become “flooded”. It’s better to under use the choke, than to over use it. If the engine becomes flooded, then it will need no choke and full throttle (maximum air) to compensate for the excess fuel that has accumulated. Running fast cleans it out, and is better for a two-stroke than idling.
  20. Starting:  Turn gas valve to “on”, arrow down. (or “res” if it’s very low on gas)
  21. Starting:  Turn engine stop switch to “run” symbol. It’s on the right handlebar.
  22. Starting:  Revival/Arrow/Streetmate only. Put the key in and turn it on.
  23. Starting:  Cold starting only. Put the choke on by flipping the black lever up.
  24. Starting:  Stand on the ground with the bike on its center stand. Pedal forward until the pedal on your side is in the 2 o’clock position. Have your left hand fingers on the left (rear) hand brake, ready to stop in case it comes off the stand and takes off. Have your right hand on the throttle, with the twist grip turned only just a little, or not at all. Now kick backwards. A broke-in new Tomos starts in one kick.
  25. Starting:  After it starts, rev it up by twisting the throttle. The engine needs to be revved up either stationary on the center stand or moving down the street. Starting it up and then letting it idle to warm up is not necessary or recommended. Its two-stroke crankcase already has the oil film, so it’s ready to ride immediately after starting.
  26. Starting can also be done with the tires on the ground, off the center stand. Pedal the bike forward, maybe 10 or 20 inches, to put one of the pedals in kick position.
  27. Starting can be done while moving. Just stop pedaling and kick backwards.
  28. Electric starting is on Arrow/Revival/Streetmate only. Use the above starting steps, but replace “kick backwards” with “hold the left brake and push the start button”. The start button is where your right thumb is. Then ride for 10 minutes to recharge the battery.
  29. Storage: Ride it with the gas valve turned off, to evacuate the gas from the carburetor. After about a block when it runs out, put the choke on and it will go another block. Doing this will prevent the carburetor from getting coated on the inside with tar from dried up gasoline during storage.
  30. Flooded Starting: Occasionally the moped can become “flooded”, a condition where too much gasoline and not enough air is causing the engine to not start. When this occurs, a different starting procedure must be used. First the gas valve should be turned off. The carburetor holds enough gas to run for at least a minute. Instead of minimum throttle with choke on (up), it needs maximum throttle with choke off (down), to get the most air. Once it fires, it needs the maximum throttle for awhile, maybe 5 or 20 seconds, until the rough running goes away. Then it needs 15-20 minutes of fast running to heat up the exhaust fully, to boil off any unburned gas and oil. During this period it will smoke a lot. If it does not fire within a few full kicks, then the spark plug will need to be removed and the gas or oil dried off it. If the white or brown porcelain insulator is shiny or black, then it will need a new spark plug, NGK BR7ES. Here are the causes of “flooding”. Knowing these before it happens will help prevent the problem.
  31. When a moped is leaned way over, especially with the gas left on, such as when it is being transported, gasoline can spill into the air filter or into the intake port of the engine, and result in not starting. This also can happen on Revival and Streetmate when gasoline spills over during filling. When the engine is run with the choke on too long, the spark plug can get wet with too much gasoline, and result in the engine not starting. Idling for too long, or going slow all the time can also cause this. When the engine is kicked over many times without having a spark, such as when the kill switch is left in the off position, the spark plug can get wet with gas and result in not starting.
  32. If the float valve inside the carburetor malfunctions, gasoline can spill into the air filter. A tiny fiber can cause that, or tar from a long time sitting, or a worn needle valve and/or seat. If the oil injector leaks oil into the engine during storage, then the spark plug can get wet with oil. Remove the spark  lug, kick over the engine to push out any excess oil, and clean the oil off the plug.


Myrons Name Index

April 27, 2009

Welcome to Myrons 1100-Name Index. You can find the brand name, model name, and the maker of your bike here.

It matters whether a bike is a USA model or not. USA models were imported by the hundreds or thousands, while non-USA mopeds were brought into the US one at a time by private citizens. Parts for non-USA models were never sold in the US. There is also unfamiliarity on both sides. They’re not familiar with our stuff, and we’re not familiar with theirs. In the last 15 years, these barriers have been reduced by the internet and globalization. To get parts in the US for a non-US model, you have to either get them from Europe or know what US moped had those same parts. US models all have a horn and brake light and extra magneto wires. Euro models have less wires, often a thumb bell instead of an electric horn, no brake light, and different light fixtures and bulb styles. Besides having certain parts differences, USA and non-USA models are usually called different names. A Honda Hobbit in the US is a Camino in Europe. Then there are different speed versions catered to the laws of different European countries. Knowing what parts are the same is the name of the game.

From the name you have, use this index to find the bike brand. Then look in the MME under that. Hopefully there will be a picture to confirm the identity of your moped or motorbike. All names of USA mopeds are included, but only some non-US moped names are listed. Some moped-related names of electric and gasoline (below 110cc) scooters, street motorcycles, pocket bikes, mini-bikes, stand-up scooters, and motorized bicycles are also included.

Abbreviations: Mcycle = motorcycle, e-bike = electric bicycle, CVT = continuously variable transmission, 1-spd = one speed automatic, 2-spd = two speed automatic (no shift lever), alt. name = alternate name, foot shift = must shift gears with foot, but no clutch to operate, manual = must shift gears with foot and operate clutch on left hand lever, LC = liquid cooled, RV = reed valve, PP = piston port, rot = rotary valve, OHV = 4-stroke with over head valves, OHC = 4-stroke with over head cam, CABMMC = Chongoing Astronautic Bashan Motorcycle Manufacturing Company LTD (maker of 2009-2010 Lazer 4-stroke moped)

Name What it is Bike Brand Who made it Where Yrs in US Engine: 50cc unless noted
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101 USA moped Flandria A Claeys Flandria Belgium 1976-77 Flandria 1-spd, like a MB
102 alt. name Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1979-80 Peugeot 1-spd engine
102 Saint Tropez USA moped Flandria A Claeys Flandria Belgium 1976-77 like a 101 but rigid frame
102 SPB USA moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1979-80 Peugeot 1-spd engine
103 alt. name Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1976-80 Peugeot 1-spd reed eng
103 LS USA moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1976-80 Peugeot 1-spd reed eng
103 LVS USA moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1976-80 Peugeot CVT reed eng
103 SP USA moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1978-80 Peugeot CVT reed eng
103 SPB USA moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1978-80 Peugeot CVT reed eng
103 SPR USA moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1978-80 Peugeot CVT reed eng
104 Euro moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France not in US Peugeot CVT reed eng
104 USA moped Flandria A Claeys Flandria Belgium 1977-79 Flandria 1-spd, like a MB
22 USA moped Baretta Piccoli Motori Italy 1977-79 Minarelli V1 engine
300 MT USA moped Safari imported by MBI Italy 1979-80 Minarelli V1 engine
38 USA moped Baretta Piccoli Motori Italy 1977-79 Minarelli V1 engine
3800 Euro moped Solex Velosolex France 1966-88 front 1-spd no brake lite
39 USA moped Baretta Piccoli Motori Italy 1977-79 Minarelli V1 engine
40 USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1975-79 Motobecane 1-spd eng
400 MT USA moped Safari imported by MBI Italy 1979-80 Minarelli V1 eng top-tank
40T USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1975-79 Motobecane 1-spd eng
40TL USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1976-79 Motobecane 1-spd eng
40TS USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1976-79 Motobecane 1-spd eng
44 USA moped Baretta Piccoli Motori Italy 1977-79 Minarelli V1 engine
4600 USA moped Solex Motobecane France 1974-79 front 1-spd friction drive
47 USA moped Foxi Jui Li Enterprise Taiwan 1980-80 Sachs 505/1A f.br top tank
4-Stroke alt. name Indian Merida Taiwan 1977-80 says on sides
50 USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1976-80 Motobecane 1-spd eng
5000 Euro moped Solex Motobecane France 1971-88 16″ wheels instead of 19″
50-A USA moped Clinton Jui Li Enterprise Taiwan 1979-80 Sachs 505/1A foot brake
50V USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1976-80 Motobecane CVT engine
504 USA engine many Fichtel & Sachs Germany 1976-86 Sachs 1-sp external pedals
504 1A (40kph) USA engine many Fichtel & Sachs Germany 1976-79 26mph version
504 1B (25kph) USA engine many Fichtel & Sachs Germany not in US 17mph version
504 1C Euro engine many Fichtel & Sachs Germany not in US Sachs 1-sp external pedals
504 1D (40kph) USA engine many Fichtel & Sachs Germany 1978-86 26mph but more torque
505 USA engine many Fichtel & Sachs Germany 1976-86 Sachs 1-sp internal pedals
505 1A (40kph) USA engine many Fichtel & Sachs Germany 1976-79 26mph version
505 1B (25kph) USA engine many Fichtel & Sachs Germany 1976-79 17mph version
505 1C Euro engine many Fichtel & Sachs Germany not in US Sachs 1-sp internal pedals
505 1D (40kph) USA engine many Fichtel & Sachs Germany 1978-86 26mph but more torque
508 USA engine Kynast Fichtel & Sachs Germany 1978-80 Sachs 2-speed int. pedals
50 Chief USA moped Indian Merida Taiwan 1977-80 copy of Honda PC50 eng
50 V USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1976-80 Motobecane CVT engine
5 Flags USA moped 5 Flags 5 Flags M.bikes China? 2003-05? 37cc belt/chain 1-sp 25mph
5 Star USA moped General Jui Li Enterprise Taiwan 1977-80 Minarelli or Sachs engine
6000 Euro moped Solex Velosolex France 1974-77 sideways eng. shaft drive
7 USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1978-79 Motobecane 1-spd eng
8000 (Tenor) Euro moped Solex Velosolex France 1973-77 MO-1,4sp,M54,M56 engs
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Name What it is Bike Brand Who made it Where Yrs in US What engine
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A3 USA engine Tomos Tomos Koper Yugosla. 1974-91 Tomos A3 2-spd engine
A35 USA engine Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 1991-06 Tomos A35 2-spd engine
A3GM (25mph) USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Yugosla. 1977-91 Tomos A3 2-spd engine
A3SL (20mph) USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Yugosla. 1977-84 Tomos A3 2-spd engine
A3SP (30mph) USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Yugosla. 1977-91 Tomos A3 2-spd engine
A5 alt. name Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 1992-06 what the A35 cylinder says
A52 alt. name Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2004-on what the A55 cylinder says
A55 USA engine Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2001-on Tomos A55 2-spd engine
Acer-Mex S.A. USA maker Carabela Acer-Mex S.A. Mexico 1978-80 Minarelli V1 engine
Aermacci USA maker Harley Dav. Aermacci Italy 1965-72 Aermacci
Agratti Garelli USA maker Garelli Agrati Garelli Italy 1975-88 Garelli 1 or 2 speed eng
Allstate USA moped Sears Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1957-73? Puch MS50 compatible
AMF USA maker AMF Am Mach & Foun. USA 1977-80 McColloch or Minarelli
American Jawa US importer Jawa Jawa Czech R. 1976-05? m-cycles and mopeds
American Moped US importer Indian Merida Taiwan 1977-80 copy of Honda PC50 eng
American Moped US importer Westwind Spisni Lino Italy 1976-77 Morini MO-1 engine
AMI 50 2S USA moped Indian Merida Taiwan 1977-80 4-stroke 1-sp mag wheels
AMI 50 Chief USA moped Indian Merida Taiwan 1977-80 4-stroke 1-sp spoke whls
Amico USA moped Cosmo Testi Italy 1979-81 Minarelli V1 engine
AMS USA brand AMS Her Chee Indust. Taiwan 1978-83 Sachs 505/1D engine
AMS Sierra 50 USA moped AMS Her Chee Indust. Taiwan 1978-83 Sachs 505/1D step-thru
AMS Tahoe 50 USA moped AMS Her Chee Indust. Taiwan 1978-83 Sachs 505/1D top-tank
Angel USA brand Angel TYM Industries Taiwan 1977-79 1-spd, dry clutch, belt
Ankur USA moped Hero Hero Majestic India 1992-02? Hero 1-speed engine
AP48 USA moped Angel TYM Industries Taiwan 1977-79 semi-copy of Laura M48
Aprilia USA maker Aprilia Aprilia Italy 1990-on m-cycles and scooters
Aprilia RS50 Replica USA mcycle Aprilia Aprilia Italy 1998-05 50cc 6-spd sport bike
Aprilia SR50 USA scooter Aprilia Aprilia Italy 2000-01 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Aprilia SR50 Racing USA scooter Aprilia Aprilia Italy 2000-01 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Aprilia Scarabeo 50 USA scooter Aprilia Aprilia Italy 2000-01 50cc 2-stroke CVT
AR50 USA mcycle Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan 1981-82 Kawasaki 50cc 5 or 6 spd
AR80 USA mcycle Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan 1981-82 Kawasaki 80cc
Arciero Euro brand Arciero Italtelai Italy not in US called Pacer in US?
Arciero top tank Euro moped Arciero Italtelai Italy not in US same as Pacer Super Sport
Ateliers alt. name Motobecane Ateliers de Moto. France 1959-60? 1959 Riverside moped
Atlantis USA scooter Derbi Derbi Spain 2000-02? Derbi CVT
Austro Daimler USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1984-86 Puch 1-spd(85) 2-spd(86)
Automatic USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Yugosla. 1974-76 first name of A3 Bullet
Automatic USA moped Hero Puch Hero Majestic India 1998-05 Hero 1-speed engine
Automatico USA moped Casal Casal Portugal 1975-80 Casal 1-speed engine
Autopower USA moped Avanti Mont Motors India 1999-03 copy of Garelli (1-sp)
Autoshift sticker Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1978-80 Puch 2-speed side panels
AV10 Euro moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France not in US 3-transfer port with reed
AV38 USA moped Mont. Wards Ateliers de Moto. France 1959-60? 1959 Riverside moped
AV42 Euro moped Motobecane Ateliers de Moto. France 1960-64? 1962 MB AV42
AV7 USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1975-80 2-transfer port no reed
AV79 Euro moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1956-57? Cycle magazine Jan 1956
Avanti USA brand Avanti Mont Motors India 1999-03 copy of Garelli 2 speed
Avanti Mont USA moped Avanti Mont Motors India 1999-03 copy of Gar 2sp but its 1sp
Avanti Kobra USA moped Avanti Mont Motors India 1999-03 copy of Garelli 2 speed
Avanti X-Bike USA mcycle Avanti Mont Motors India 2001-03 off road Garelli 2-spd copy
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Name What it is Bike Brand Who made it Where Yrs in US What engine
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Babetta USA moped Jawa Jawa Czech 1976-79 Jawa 1-speed engine
Babetta Euro brand Babetta Jawa Czech R. not in US Jawa 1-speed engine
Babetta 206 Euro moped Babetta Jawa Czech not in US 1970-1974 rigid frame
Babetta 207 Euro moped Babetta Jawa Czech not in US 1975-1982 suspension
Babetta 210 Euro moped Babetta Jawa Czech R. not in US 1983-1997 new 1s & 2s eng
Badger USA brand Badger Rog Ljubljana Yugosla. 1976-78 Laura M48 1-spd engine
Baja USA brand Baja Baja? China? 2005-09? scooters
Baja SC50 USA scooter Baja Baja? China? 2005-09? 2008 Baja SC50
Bajaj USA scooter Bajaj Bajaj India 1978-82? Bajaj
Balboa USA moped Sachs Hercules Germany 1977-80 Sachs 504/1A Bosch mag
Baretta USA brand Baretta Piccoli Motori Italy 1977-79 Minarelli V1 engine
Baron USA moped Foxi KTM Austria 1977-80 Sachs 504/1A eng CEV mag
Baron alt. name Lazer Baron Kawa? China 2007-07 copy of Honda PC50 engine
Basic USA moped Garelli Italy 1980-86 Garelli 1-speed engine
Batavus USA maker Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1976-80 Laura M48 1-spd engine
Batavus Bronco USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1977-78 Laura M48 1-spd engine
Batavus Gran Prix USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1980-85 Peug 103 CVT eng, top tank
Batavus HS50 USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1976-77 Laura M48 1-spd engine
Batavus Intercycle USA maker Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1976-77 M48, M56, or Peugeot engs
Batavus Mobat USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1977-78 Laura M48 1-spd engine
Batavus Mondial USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1980-85 Peugeot 103 CVT engine
Batavus Regency USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1979-80 Laura M56 1-spd, top tank
Batavus Starflite USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1978-80 Laura M48 1-spd engine
Batavus VA USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1976-77 Laura M48 1-spd engine
Benelli USA brand Benelli Motobi Italy 1977-79 Benelli 1-spd engine
Benelli Blazer USA moped Benelli Motobi Italy 1977-77 Benelli 1-spd engine
Benelli G2 USA moped Benelli Motobi Italy 1977-79 Benelli 1-spd engine
Benly CD50 Jap. mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1996-96 Benly means convenience
Bermuda USA brand Bermuda A Claeys Flandria Belgium 1976-80 Flandria 1-spd, like a MB
Bernardi components Bernardi mag wheels Italy 1984-90 on ’86 Motomarina Raven
Beta USA brand Beta Beta? Italy 1976-80 Morini 1-sp and 2-sp eng
Beta Alpha USA moped Beta Beta? Italy 1976-79? Morini MO-1 engine
Beta Deluxe 2sp USA moped Beta Beta? Italy 1976-79? Morini MO-2 engine 2-spd
Beta SL5 USA moped Beta Beta? Italy 1976-79? Morini
Bianchi USA maker Bianchi Bianchi Italy 1976-80 Minarelli V1 engine
Bianchi Eagle USA moped Bianchi Bianchi Italy 1976-80 Minarelli V1 engine
Bianchi Snark USA moped Snark Bianchi Italy 1976-80 Minarelli V1 engine
Bike Bug USA engine Bike Bug Tas Taiwan 1976-78 tiny 22cc front engine kit
Bikit USA e-bike Bikit Bikit? USA? 1999-01 electric bicycle kit $449
Bimm alt. name many Moto Bimm Italy 1976-86 made Gadabout & others
Bimotor USA maker Maico Bimotor Italy 1976-79 Minarelli V1 engine
Bingo USA moped 1976-78? Laura M48 1-spd engine
Blanco USA moped Intramotor Intramotor Gloria Italy 1975-80 Verona or Minarelli V1
Blata USA maker Blata Blata Czech 1990-02? pocket bikes
Blatino USA scooter Blata Blata Czech 1990-02? stand-up scooter
Blazer USA moped Benelli Motobi Italy 1977-77 Benelli 1-spd engine
Bombardier Canada mop Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1975-78? Canadian Puch Maxi
Bonvicini Moto Euro moped Bonvicini Moto Italy not in US Morini 1-sp and 2-sp eng
BP48 Speed Bird USA moped Angel TYM Industries Taiwan 1977-79 semi-copy of Laura M48
Bravo USA moped Vespa Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1977-80 Vespa CVT engine
Bronco USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1977-78 Laura M48 1-spd engine
Brophy USA e-bike Brophy Brophy Mach W. USA 1976-77 e-bike “Lectra Cycle”
Buddy USA moped Sparta Sparta Holland 1977-80 Sachs 504/1A Bosch mag
Buddy 125 USA scooter Genuine Genuine? Taiwan? 2006-06 125cc 2-stroke CVT
Buddy 50 USA scooter Genuine Genuine? Taiwan? 2006-06 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Bullet USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Yugosla. 1977-93 Tomos A3 2-spd engine
Bully 4000 Euro moped Kynast Otto Kynast Germany 1975-79? same as Flying Dutchman
Bumble Bike USA moped Bumble Bike Bumble-Bike M. USA 1979-80 rear pull start engine
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Name What it is Bike Brand Who made it Where Yrs in US What engine
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C100 Super Cub USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1959-62 50cc OHV 3-spd foot shift
C100T Trail Cub USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1961-62 50cc OHV 3-spd foot shift
C102 Super Cub USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1960-62 50cc OHV 3-spd foot shift
C105T Trail 55 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1962-63 55cc OHV 3-spd foot shift
C110 Sport 50 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1960-62 50cc OHV 4-spd manual
C1A USA moped Cuyler Cuyler? Taiwan 1978-80 Sachs 505/1A
C5 Diablo USA moped Derbi Derbi Spain 1978-80 dirt bike moped
C70 Honda 70 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1969-73 70cc OHC 3-spd foot shift
C70 Passport USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1980-83 70cc OHC 3-spd foot shift
C7E Ciao Special alt. name Vespa Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1974-86 E = elastic suspension
C7E/B  Supreme alt. name Vespa Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1976-84 B = blinkers
C7N Standard alt. name Vespa Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1974-80 N = normal
C7V Ciao Super alt. name Vespa Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1978-80 V = variator transmission
CA100 Honda 50 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1962-70 50cc OHV 3-spd foot shift
CA110 Sport 50 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1962-69 50cc OHV 4-spd manual
CA200 Honda 90 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1963-66 90cc OHV 4-spd manual
Cabiglio Euro moped Cabiglio Cabiglio Italy not in US Morini MO-1 engine
Califfo 80 USA moped Rizatto C. Rizatto & C. Italy 1977-80 Rizatto 1-spd engine
Califfo Deluxe USA moped Rizatto C. Rizatto & C. Italy 1977-80 Rizatto 1-spd engine
Campera Euro moped Campera Campera Spain not in US Spanish 1950’s Mobylette
Carabella USA brand Carabella Acer-Mex S.A. Mexico 1977-80 different Minarelli V1
Carabella Deluxe USA moped Carabella Acer-Mex S.A. Mexico 1977-80 different Minarelli V1
Carabela Motomatic USA noped Carabella Acer-Mex S.A. Mexico 1977-80 60cc Minarelli V1 kick
Carabela Motopony Mini USA mcycle Carabella Acer-Mex S.A. Mexico 1977-80 60cc Minarelli V1 kick
Carabella Sport USA moped Carabella Acer-Mex S.A. Mexico 1977-80 different Minarelli V1
Carnielli Moto G Euro moped Carnielli Carnielli Italy 1970-79? Carnielli? 1-speed eng
Casal USA brand Casal Casal Portugal 1978-80 Casal 1&2 sp engine
Casal K168 USA moped Casal Casal Portugal 1978-80 Casal 2-spd, long seat
Casal K177 USA moped Casal Casal Portugal 1977-80 Casal 1-spd, solo seat
Casal K196 USA moped Casal Casal Portugal 1978-80 Casal 2-spd, top tank
CB50 Dream 50R USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 2004-05 50cc DOHC 6-spd manual
CEV components many Fratelli Pagani Italy 1974-07 lights, electrical parts
Champ LC50 G,H USA noped Yamaha Yamaha Motor Japan 1980-81 Yamaha 2-spd auto
Chappy LB50P D,E,F,G,H,I USA moped Yamaha Yamaha Motor Japan 1977-82 50cc 2-s fat tires w/pedals
Chappy LB80P C,D,E USA moped Yamaha Yamaha Motor Japan 1976-78 80cc 2-s fat tires w/pedals
CH80 Elite 80 USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1986-00 80cc OHC CVT automatic
Chengdu USA maker Chengdu China Chengdu China 1980-85? copy of Sachs 505
Chief alt. name Indian Merida Taiwan 1977-80 copy of Honda PC50 eng
Ciao USA moped Vespa Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1974-86 Vespa 1-speed engine
Cimatti USA brand Cimatti Cimatti Italy 1975-79 Minarelli V1 engine
City Bike USA moped Cimatti Cimatti Italy 1975-79 Minarelli V1 engine
CL200 USA moped Gitane Testi Italy 1977-78 Minarelli V1 engine
CL70 Scrambler USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1969-73 70cc OHC 4-spd manual
CL90 Scrambler USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1967-69 90cc OHC 4-spd manual
Classic USA moped Motron Motron Italy 1978-79 Minarelli V1 engine
Clinton USA brand Clinton Jui Li Enterprise Taiwan 1978-80 Sachs 505/1A foot brake
Clipper USA moped Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1979-84 copy of Laura M56 1-spd
Clipper USA moped Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1985-87 DMC 1-spd
CM91 Honda 90 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1966-69 90cc OHC 3-spd foot shift
Cobra USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1981-86 Puch 1-speed 9-fin
Cobra USA scooter Kymco Kymco Taiwan 2001-02? Kymco 50cc CVT scooter
Cobra USA moped Safari imported by MBI Italy 1979-81 Minarelli V1 engine
Cobra (Kobra) USA moped Avanti Mont Motors India 1999-03 copy of Garelli 2-speed
Cobra Cross USA scooter Kymco Kymco Taiwan 2001-02? Kymco 50cc CVT scooter
Colombia USA brand Colombia Colombia Manuf. USA 1977-80 Sachs or Solo engines
Colt alt. name Cosmo Piccoli Motori Italy 1977-80? Morini engines & Sachs
Commander USA moped Gemini Gemini? Taiwan 1978-79 1-spd, dry clutch, belt
Commando USA moped Safari imported by MBI Italy 1978-80 4-spd manual top tank
Commuter USA moped Colombia Colombia Manuf. USA 1977-80 Sachs 505 1A foot brake
Commuter USA moped Malaguti Malaguti Italy 1976-79 Morini MO1 engine 1-spd
Commuter 1 USA moped Malaguti Malaguti Italy 1978-83 Morini M1 engine 1s/reed
Commuter II USA moped Malaguti Malaguti Italy 1978-83 Morini MO2 engine 2-spd
Concord USA brand Concord Fantic Motor Italy 1979-84? Minarelli late V1 engine
Concord Freedom USA moped Concord Fantic Motor Italy 1980-84? Minarelli late V1, long seat
Concord Invader USA moped Concord Fantic Motor Italy 1979-84? Minarelli late V1, solo seat
Concord Shadow USA moped Concord Fantic Motor Italy 1980-84? Minarelli late V1, top tank
Concord XKE USA moped Concord Fantic Motor Italy 1980-84? Minarelli late V1, top tank
Condor 729 USA moped Condor Condor? Taiwan 1979-80?
Confort USA moped Gitane Testi Italy 1977-79 Minarelli V1 engine
Confort sticker Vespa Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1974-86 Ciao rear “with strength”
Confort Luxe V1 USA moped Gitane Testi Italy 1976-78 Min V1, sheet tank-frame
Cosmo USA brand Cosmo Mont Motors India 1999-03 Stinger & others
Cosmo USA brand Cosmo Piccoli Motori Italy 1977-80? Morini engines & Sachs
Cosmo Colt 1 (I) USA moped Cosmo Piccoli Motori Italy 1978-79 Morini MO2 2sp engine
Cosmo Colt 2 (II) USA moped Cosmo Piccoli Motori Italy 1979-82 Sachs 505/1D 1sp engine
Cosmo Colt 3 (III reed) USA moped Cosmo Piccoli Motori Italy 1979-82 Morini M1 reed engine
Cosmo Colt 3A (III var) USA moped Cosmo Piccoli Motori Italy 1980-82 Morini M101 variator eng
Cosmo Colt 4 USA moped Cosmo Piccoli Motori Italy 1981-83 Morini M101 variator eng
Cosmo Colt 4B USA moped Cosmo Piccoli Motori Italy 1981-85 Colt 4 with luggage boxes
Cosmo Colt 5 USA moped Cosmo Piccoli Motori Italy
Cosmo Cub USA noped Cosmo Kinetic India 2000-02 kids dirt bike, 1-spd auto
Cosmo Stinger USA moped Cosmo Mont Motors India 1999-03 same as Avanti Supersport
Cricket USA moped Gitane Testi Italy 1976-77 Min V1, tube-tank-frame
CT200 Trail 90 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1964-66 90cc OHV 3-spd foot shift
CT70 Trail 70 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1969-78 70cc OHC 3-spd foot shift
CT90 Trail 90 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1966-79 90cc OHC 3-spd foot shift
Currie USA e-bike Currie Currie Tech. USA 2002-05 electric bicycles and kits
Currie E-Cruiser USA e-bike Currie Currie Tech. USA 2003-05 electric cruiser bicycle
Currie E-Folder USA e-bike Currie Currie Tech. USA 2003-05 electric folding bicycle
Currie E-Ride USA e-bike Currie Currie Tech. USA 2003-05 electric mountain bicycle
Cushman USA scooter Cushman Cushman USA 1937-65 vintage motor scooters
Cushman Eagle USA scooter Cushman Cushman USA 1950?-65 America’s #1 scooter
Cuyler USA brand Cuyler Cuyler? Taiwan 1978-80 Sachs 505/1A
CX50 USA mcycle Italjet Italjet Italy 1977-78 same as Indian Warrior
CX50R USA mcycle Italjet Italjet Italy 1977-78 same as Indian Spec. Ed.
Cyclemaster Euro moped Cyclemaster Cyclemaster England 1950-55? rear wheel with engine
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Name What it is Bike Brand Who made it Where Yrs in US What engine
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Dailim USA maker Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1979-90 several engines
Dandy pocket bike Dandy Dandy? Japan 1984-87 the original pocket bike
Dart USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1981-84 1-speed 8-fin E50 engine
Debramatic Euro moped Lambretta Innocenti Italy 1965-70 1-sp 25mph “Lambretino”
Delta 24 Euro moped Delta Delta? Baltic R. not in US Delta?
Deluxe USA moped Foxi KTM Austria 1977-80 Sachs 504/1A eng CEV mag
Deluxe USA moped Sparta Sparta Austria 1977-80 Sachs 504/1A Bosch mag
Demm Smily USA moped DEMM Daldi & Matteucci Italy 1977-78 Demm 1-speed auto
Demm Smily 2 USA moped DEMM Daldi & Matteucci Italy 1977-79 Demm 1-spd black, goofy
Derbi USA maker Derbi Derbi Spain 1976-89 DERivado de BIcycleta
Derbi Atlantis USA scooter Derbi Derbi Spain 2000-01? 50cc scooter
Derbi C5 Diablo USA moped Derbi Derbi Spain 1978-80 dirt bike moped
Derbi DS50 USA moped Derbi Derbi Spain 1987-89 50cc moped/scooter
Derbi Easy USA scooter Derbi Derbi Spain 1998-99? 50cc scooter
Derbi Fenix USA mcycle Derbi Derbi Spain 1998-99? 50cc motorcycle 6-spd
Derbi GP1 USA scooter Derbi Derbi Spain 2002-03? 50cc scooter, was Predator
Derbi GPR50 USA mcycle Derbi Derbi Spain 1998-05 50cc motorcycle 6-spd
Derbi Hunter USA scooter Derbi Derbi Spain 1998-99? 50cc scooter
Derbi Laguna USA moped Derbi Derbi Spain 1978-80 later called Sport Laguna
Derbi Paddock USA scooter Derbi Derbi Spain 1998-99? 50cc scooter
Derbi RD50 USA moped Derbi Derbi Spain 1981-88 dirt bike moped, was C5
Derbi Senda USA mcycle Derbi Derbi Spain 1998-02? 50cc motorcycle 6-spd
Derbi SL USA moped Derbi Derbi Spain 1976-86 Derbi CVT heavy duty
Derbi SLE USA moped Derbi Derbi Spain 1977-86 Derbi CVT heavy duty
Derbi TT USA moped Derbi Derbi Spain 1977-85 Derbi CVT trail model
Derbi Variant alt. name Derbi Derbi Spain 1976-99 many Variant models
Diablo alt. name Derbi Derbi Spain 1978-80 Derbi C5 Diablo
Dialex E-Z Rider USA moped Dialex Dialex? USA 1979-80 Minarelli V1 engine
Diblasi USA noped Diblasi Diblasi Italy 2000-05? folding mini-bike
DKW alt. name Sachs Hercules Germany 1976-86 motorcycles, mopeds
DMC (Dailim) alt. name Dailim Dailim Motor Co Korea 1979-99 motorcycles, mopeds
Dream 50R USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 2004-05 50cc racer replica $5499
DS50 USA moped Derbi Derbi Spain 1987-89 50cc moped/scooter
Ducati USA mcycle Ducati Ducati Italy 1950-on motorcycles, mopeds
Ducati Bronco USA mcycle Ducati Ducati Italy 1960-63 100cc OHV motorcycle 4sp
Dutchman alt. name Fly. Dutch. Sparta Holland 1977-79 short for Flying Dutchman
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E50 alt. name Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1974-86 what the 1-spd says on it
Eagle (Bombardier) Can. brand Eagle Hercules Germany 1975-80? it’s a Sachs with no logos
Eagle USA moped Bianchi Bianchi Italy 1976-80 Minarelli V1 engine
Eagle USA moped Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1979-85 copy of Laura M56 1-spd
Easy USA scooter Derbi Derbi Spain 1998-99? 50cc CVT engine 4.8hp
Easy Rider USA moped NVT Nort. Vi. Triumph England 1976-79 Morini MO1 engine 1-spd
Eco Euro moped Gilera Piaggio & C.SpA Italy not in US Vespa Ciao eng 12″ rims
Eco USA e-bike E-Ton E-Ton America Taiwan? 2003-04 electric folding bicycle
Electracycle USA e-bike Electracycle Electracycle USA 2000-01 electric bicycle
Electricruiser USA e-bike ZAP Zero Air Pollution USA 1996-01 electric bicycles and kits
Electrobike USA e-bike Electrobike Electrobike USA 2002-04 electric bicycle
Electroped USA e-bike Pedal Power Pedal Power China? 1976-78 electric folding bicycle
Elite USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1987-07 50-250cc CVT scooters
Emei 50 D USA moped Chengdu China Chengdu China 1980-85? copy of Sachs 505 engine
e-Solex Euro e-bike CIBLE CIBLE China 2006-09 electric 400W 22mph
e-Solex 2.0 Euro e-bike CIBLE CIBLE China 2009-11 lithium polymer battery
ETC USA e-bike ETC Elec. Transpo. Co USA 1998-02 electric bicycles and kits
Eureka Flex USA moped Garelli Agrati Garelli Italy 1975-76 superceded by Sport
EV Global USA e-bike EV Global group of many USA 2001-03 electric bicycles and kits
EV Warrior USA e-bike EV Warrior EV Warrior USA 1993-96? electric bicycles
Express II NA50 USA noped Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1979-81 Honda 2-spd 14″ rims
Express NC50 USA noped Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1977-83 Honda 1-spd 14″ rims
Express Sr NX50 USA noped Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1981-82 Honda CVT 10″ rims
EZ Rider USA moped Dialex USA? 1979-80 Minarelli V1 engine
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FA50MX USA noped Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1980-81? 19.5mph version
FA50 Shuttle USA noped Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1979-81? Suzuki 1-spd auto
FA50X USA noped Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1980-81? 27mph version
Fabrica USA maker Garelli Fab. Motoveicoli Italy 1987-92? Italian for “factory”
Fairway USA moped Motron Motron Italy 1980-81? Minarelli V2 variator eng
Fantic USA maker Fantic Fantic Motor Italy 1977-80 later merged with Garelli
Fantic Lei USA moped Fantic Fantic Motor Italy 1977-80 Minarelli V1 mini moped
Fantic Super Lei USA moped Fantic Fantic Motor Italy 1977-80 Minarelli V1 engine
Fenix USA mcycle Derbi Derbi Spain 1998-99? 50cc motorcycle 6-spd
Flandria USA maker Bermuda A Claeys Flandria Belgium 1976-80 Flandria 1-spd, like a MB
Flandria 101 USA moped Flandria A Claeys Flandria Belgium 1976-77 Flandria 067 1-spd belt/ch
Flandria 104 USA moped Flandria A Claeys Flandria Belgium 1977-79 Flandria 1-spd, like a MB
Floozie USA moped Grycner Jui Li Enterprise Taiwan 1977-80 Sachs 505/1A foot brake
Florett Euro moped Kreidler Kreidler Germany not in US early Kreidler moped
Flory USA moped Kreidler Kreidler Germany 1976-80 Kreidler 2-speed engine
Flying Dutchman USA moped Fly. Dutch. Sparta Holland 1977-80 Sachs 504/1A or 1D later
Flying Dutchman USA moped Fly. Dutch. Otto Kynast Germany 1977-80 Sachs 504 or 508 2-speed
Fox USA moped Safari imported by MBI Italy 1976-78 front Rovet engine
Foxi USA brand Foxi KTM Austria 1976-80 Sachs 504/1A eng CEV mag
Foxi USA brand Foxi Sparta Holland 1976-80 Sachs 504/1A Bosch mag
Foxi 47 USA moped Foxi Jui Li Enterprise Taiwan 1980-80 Sachs 505/1A f.br top tank
Foxi (Red Foxi) USA moped Foxi Testi? Italy? 1976-77 Minarelli V1 engine?
Foxi (Silver Foxi) USA moped Foxi Testi Italy 1976-77 Minarelli V1 engine
Foxi Amigo USA moped Foxi Testi? Italy? 1976-77 Minarelli V1 engine?
Foxi Baron USA moped Foxi KTM Austria 1977-80 Sachs 504/1A eng CEV mag
Foxi Deluxe USA moped Foxi KTM Austria 1977-80 Sachs 504/1A eng CEV mag
Foxi GT USA moped Foxi Sparta Holland 1976-79 Sachs 504/1A Bosch mag
Foxi GT Sport USA moped Foxi Sparta Holland 1976-79 Sachs 504/1A Bosch mag
Foxi Salzburg USA moped Foxi KTM Austria 1977-80 Sachs 504/1A eng CEV mag
Franco Morini USA engine many Motori Morini Italy 1976-86 not part of Moto Morini
Freedom USA moped Concord Fantic Motor Italy 1980-84? Minarelli late V1, long seat
Free Spirit USA moped Sears Kromag Austria 1978-79 Puch 1-spd 7-fin engine
Free Spirit 8080 USA moped Sears Kromag Austria 1978-79 20mph blue rigid frame
Free Spirit 8081 USA moped Sears Kromag Austria 1978-79 20mph red standard
Free Spirit 8082 USA moped Sears Kromag Austria 1978-79 25mph red standard
Free Spirit 8083 USA moped Sears Kromag Austria 1978-79 30mph red standard
Free Spirit 8084 USA moped Sears Kromag Austria 1978-79 20mph silver deluxe
Free Spirit 8085 USA moped Sears Kromag Austria 1978-79 25mph silver deluxe
Free Spirit 8086 USA moped Sears Kromag Austria 1978-79 30mph silver deluxe
FS50X USA noped Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1981-83? Suzuki 2-spd auto
FZ50X USA noped Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1980-82? Suzuki 2-spd auto
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G1 (AMS Tahoe) USA moped AMS Her Chee Indust. Taiwan 1978-83 Sachs 505/1D top-tank
G2 (AMS Tahoe) USA moped AMS Her Chee Indust. Taiwan 1979-82 Sachs 508 2-spd top-tank
G2 (Benelli) USA moped Benelli Motobi Italy 1977-79 Benelli 1-spd engine
G3 (Prima G3) USA moped Sachs Hercules Germany 1979-85 Sachs 505/1D
G5S USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1969-69 73cc rot valve 4-sp manual
G6S USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1970-71 73cc rot valve 4-sp manual
G6SB USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1972-72 73cc rot valve 4-sp manual
G7S USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1973-74 73cc rot valve 4-sp manual
Gadabout USA brand Gadabout Moto Bimm Italy 1979-80 became Moto Marina
Garelli USA brand Garelli Agrati Garelli Italy 1974-90 Garelli 1 or 2-speed
Garelli Basic USA moped Garelli Agrati Garelli Italy 1981-87 Garelli 1-spd
Garelli Deluxe alt. name Garelli Agrati Garelli Italy 1976-77 same as Eureka
Garelli Eureka USA moped Garelli Agrati Garelli Italy 1974-76 1-speed horiz cylinder
Garelli Gary USA moped Garelli Fab. Motoveicoli Italy 1984-90 Uno = 1-spd/Due = 2-spd
Garelli Monza USA moped Garelli Agrati Garelli Italy 1981-85 Garelli 2-spd vert cylinder
Garelli Sport USA moped Garelli Agrati Garelli Italy 1977-78 Eureka with new cyl fins
Garelli VIP USA moped Garelli Agrati Garelli Italy 1978-86 Garelli 2-spd vert cylinder
Gary Due USA moped Garelli Fab. Motoveicoli Italy 1988-92? Garelli 2-sp horiz cylinder
Gary Uno USA moped Garelli Fab. Motoveicoli Italy 1988-92? Garelli 1-sp horiz cylinder
Gazelle USA moped Negrini Negrini Italy 1977-78 Morini MO1 engine
Gazelle II USA moped Negrini Negrini Italy 1978-79 Morini MO2 engine
Gazelle III USA moped Negrini Negrini Italy 1979-82 Morini M1 reed engine
GD USA engine GD? GD? China 1985-95? Sachs 505 copy says GD
Gemini USA brand Gemini Taiwan Taiwan 1978-79 1-spd, dry clutch, belt
General USA brand General Jui Li Enterprise Taiwan 1977-80 Sachs or Minarelli engine
General 5 Star ST USA moped General Jui Li Enterprise Taiwan 1977-80 Sachs 505/1A foot brake
General 5 Star USA moped General Jui Li Enterprise Taiwan 1979-80 Minarelli late V1 top tank
General 5 Star TE USA moped General Moto Bimm Italy 1982-86? Minarelli late V1 engine
General C2 USA moped General Jui Li Enterprise Italy? 1980-81 Minarelli Variator engine
Gentleman Due alt. name Benelli Motobi Italy 1977-79 Benelli G2 1-spd auto
Genuine Rattler 110 USA scooter Genuine PGO (Yeu Tyan) Taiwan 2008-09 110cc 2-stroke CVT
Genuine Stella USA scooter Genuine PGO (Yeu Tyan) Taiwan 2003-06 150cc OHC CVT
Gitane USA brand Gitane Testi Italy 1976-78 Minarelli V1 engine
Gitane CL200 alt. name Gitane Testi Italy 1976-78 aka Confort Luxe V1
Gitane Confort USA moped Gitane Testi Italy 1976-78 Min V1, sheet tank-frame
Gitane Cricket USA moped Gitane Testi Italy 1976-77 Min V1, tube-tank-frame
Gitane Jeans USA moped Gitane Testi Italy 1976-77 Min V1, its a Cosmo Amico
Gitane OKS alt. name Gitane Testi Italy 1976-77 aka Sport
Gitane Sport USA moped Gitane Testi Italy 1976-78 Min V1, tubular, sep. tank
Gloria alt. name Intramotor Intramotor Gloria Italy 1975-80 part of the maker name
Golden Bullet USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Yugosla. 1986-91 Tomos 2-spd w/oil inject
GPR50 USA mcycle Derbi Derbi Spain 1998-05 50cc motorcycle 6-spd
Grande USA moped Vespa Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1978-86 Vespa CVT engine
Gran Prix USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1980-82? Peug 103 CVT eng, top tank
Gran Prix XL USA moped Cimatti Cimatti Italy 1978-80 Minarelli V1 eng, top tank
Gran Sport USA moped Garelli Agrati Garelli Italy 1977-80 Garelli 1-spd horiz engine
Gran Sport LTD USA moped Garelli Agrati Garelli Italy 1978-84 Garelli 1-spd horiz engine
Grimeca components Grimeca wheels & brakes Italy 1974-90? pioneer of alum. casting
Grycner USA brand Grycner Jui Li Enterprise Taiwan 1977-80 Sachs 505 1A foot brake
GT alt. name Foxi Sparta Holland 1976-80 Sachs 504/1A Bosch mag
Gulp alt. name Garelli Agrati Garelli Italy 1977-78 Garelli 2-spd vert cylinder
Gulpmatic USA moped Garelli Agrati Garelli Italy 1977-78 Garelli 2-spd vert cylinder
Gyromat USA engine many Verona Italy 1975-77 same as MO-1 but 40.0mm
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H-2 (says on cylinder) USA moped Honda Honda (Belgium) Belgium 1978-83 Honda PA50 Hobbit
Hamilton USA moped Bermuda A Claeys Flandria Belgium 1976-79 Flandria 1-spd, like a MB
Hampton USA moped Bermuda A Claeys Flandria Belgium 1976-79 Flandria 1-spd, like a MB
Harley Davidson M50 USA mcycle Harley Dav. Aermacci Italy 1965-66 50cc 2-speed grip shift
Harley Davidson M65 USA mcycle Harley Dav. Aermacci Italy 1967-72 65cc 2-speed grip shift
Hawk USA moped Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1979-84 copy of Laura M56 1-spd
Hawk USA moped Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1985-87 DMC 1-spd
Heinzmann USA e-bike Heinzmann 1999-01 front hub motor kit $1049
Her Chee USA maker AMS Her Chee Indust. Taiwan 1978-83 Sachs 505/1D engine
Hercules USA maker Sachs Hercules Germany 1977-80 Sachs 504, 505 engines
Hero USA maker Hero Hero Majestic India 1992-05 Hero 1-speed engine
Hero Puch USA brand Hero Puch Hero Majestic India 1999-05 copy of Puch Austro Daim.
Hero Winner USA scooter Hero Hero Majestic India 1999-05 50cc CVT engine
HM components Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1959-on says on most parts
HM-A3 (says on cylinder) USA noped Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1977-83 Honda NC50 Express
Hobbit USA moped Honda Honda (Belgium) Belgium 1978-83 Honda CVT like a Vespa
Hodaka USA mcycle Hodaka Hodaka Japan 1965-80? 90-250cc motorcycles
Honda USA maker Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1958-on motorcycles, scooters
Honda 50 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1962-70 50cc OHV 3-spd foot shift
Honda 70 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1969-73 70cc OHC 3-spd foot shift
Honda 90 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1963-66 90cc OHV 4-spd manual
Honda Aero 50 USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1983-87 50cc CVT 2-stroke engine
Honda C100 Super Cub USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1959-62 50cc OHV 3-spd foot shift
Honda C100T Trail Cub USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1961-62 50cc OHV 3-spd foot shift
Honda C102 Super Cub USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1960-62 50cc OHV 3-spd foot shift
Honda C105T Trail 55 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1962-63 55cc OHV 3-spd foot shift
Honda C110 Sport 50 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1960-62 50cc OHV 4-spd manual
Honda C70 Honda 70 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1969-73 70cc OHC 3-spd foot shift
Honda C70 Passport USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1980-83 70cc OHC 3-spd foot shift
Honda CA100 Honda 50 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1962-70 50cc OHV 3-spd foot shift
Honda CA110 Sport 50 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1962-69 50cc OHV 4-spd manual
Honda CA200 Honda 90 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1963-66 90cc OHV 4-spd manual
Honda CB50 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 2004-05 50cc DOHC 6-spd manual
Honda CH80 Elite 80 USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1986-07 80cc OHC CVT automatic
Honda CHF50 Metropolitan USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 2002-09 50cc OHC CVT
Honda CHF50P Metropolit. II USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 2002-05 50cc OHC CVT
Honda CL70 Scrambler USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1969-73 70cc OHC 4-spd manual
Honda CL90 Scrambler USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1967-69 90cc OHC 4-spd manual
Honda CM91 Honda 90 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1966-69 90cc OHC 3-spd foot shift
Honda CT200 Trail 90 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1964-66 90cc OHV 3-spd foot shift
Honda CT70 Trail 70 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1969-78 70cc OHC 3-spd foot shift
Honda CT90 Trail 90 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1966-79 90cc OHC 3-spd foot shift
Honda Cub USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1959-62 earliest Honda 50’s
Honda Elite 50 USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1987-93 50cc CVT 2-stroke engine
Honda Elite 50 USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1994-03 50cc CVT 4-stroke engine
Honda Elite 80 USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1985-07 80cc CVT 4-stroke engine
Honda Express USA noped Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1977-83 Honda 1-spd 14″ rims
Honda Gyro USA noped Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1984-86 3-wheel 50cc that leans
Honda Hobbit USA moped Honda Honda (Belgium) Belgium 1978-83 Honda CVT like a Vespa
Honda MB5 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1981-83 50cc 5-spd sport bike
Honda Mini Trail USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1968-78 50cc 3-spd foot shift (Z50)
Honda NA50 Express II USA noped Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1979-81 50cc 1-spd 14″rims
Honda NB50 Aero 50 USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1983-87 50cc CVT 2-stroke engine
Honda NC50 Express USA noped Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1977-83 Honda 1-spd 14″ rims
Honda NH80 Aero 80 USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1983-86 80cc CVT 2-str (49-state)
Honda NPS50 Ruckus USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 2003-on 50cc OHC CVT naked
Honda NQ50 Spree USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1984-87 50cc CVT 2-stroke engine
Honda NS50 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1990-90 50cc 6-spd LC 56mph
Honda NU50 Urban Express USA noped Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1982-83 50cc CVT 2-stroke engine
Honda NX50 Express Sr USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1981-82 50cc CVT 2-stroke engine
Honda P50 Little Honda USA moped Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1967-68 50cc eng inside rear wheel
Honda Passport USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1980-83 70cc OHC 3-spd foot shift
Honda PA50 Hobbit USA moped Honda Honda (Belgium) Belgium 1978-83 Honda CVT like a Vespa
Honda PC50 Little Honda USA moped Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1969-70 50cc OHV 1-spd 30mph
Honda NN50MD Gyro USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1984-84 3-wheel 50cc that leans
Honda PF50 Euro moped Honda Honda (Belgium) Belgium 1968-70? same motor as PC50
Honda Ruckus USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 2003?-on 50cc OHC CVT naked
Honda S65 Sport 65 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1965-69 65cc OHC 4-spd manual
Honda SA50 Elite 50 USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1988-00 50cc OHC CVT
Honda SB50 Elite 50 USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1988-90 50cc OHC CVT
Honda SE50 Elite 50 USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1987-87 50cc OHC CVT
Honda SL70 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1971-73 72cc OHC 4-spd manual
Honda XL70 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1974-76 72cc OHC 4-spd manual
Honda XL75 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1977-79 75cc OHC 4-spd manual
Honda XL80 USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1980-85 80cc OHC 4-spd manual
Honda TG50 Gyro S USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1985-86 3-wheel 50cc that leans
Honda Z50 Mini Trail USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1968-78 50cc 3-spd foot shift (Z50)
HS50 USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1976-78 Laura M48 1-spd top-tank
Hunter USA scooter Derbi Derbi Spain 1998-00 50cc CVT engine 4.8hp
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Imperial USA moped Colombia Colombia Manuf. USA 1977-80 Sachs 505/1A 1-spd
Indian USA brand Indian Merida Taiwan 1977-80 copy of Honda PC50 eng
Indian USA brand Indian Italjet Italy 1970-80? 50-200cc m-cycles Morini
Indian USA mcycle Indian Indian (original) USA 1901-53 sold their name and logo
Indian USA mcycle Indian Indian (restart) USA 1999-03 1442cc V-twins
Indian Bambino USA mcycle Indian Italjet Italy 1975-79? it’s an Italjet MM5B
Indian Brave USA mcycle Indian Italjet Italy 1975-79? it’s an Italjet M5B
Indian Scout USA mcycle Indian Italjet Italy 1975-79? it’s an Italjet JC5B
Indian Special Edition USA mcycle Indian Italjet Italy 1975-79? it’s an Italjet CX50R
Indian Warrior USA mcycle Indian Italjet Italy 1975-79? it’s an Italjet CX50
Innocenti Euro brand Lambretta Innocenti Italy not in US scooters mostly
Intercycle alt. name Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1976-84 says on VIN plate
Intramotor USA brand Intramotor Intramotor Gloria Italy 1975-80 Verona or Minarelli engs
Intramotor Kid USA moped Intramotor Intramotor Gloria Italy 1977-79 Verona MO-1 eng
Italjet USA brand Italjet Italjet Italy 1975-80? 50cc m-cycles, mopeds
Italjet Pack 2 USA moped Italjet Italjet Italy 1978-80 folding moped Vespa eng
Italjet Packaway USA moped Italjet Italjet Italy 1977-79 folding moped MO-1 eng
Italjet CX50 USA mcycle Italjet Italjet Italy 1977-78 Morini P4S 4-spd manual
Italjet CX50R USA mcycle Italjet Italjet Italy 1977-78 Morini P4S 4-spd manual
Italjet JC5B USA mcycle Italjet Italjet Italy 1977-78 Morini S5K2 radial fin 1-sp
Italjet M5B USA mcycle Italjet Italjet Italy 1977-78 Morini S5K2 1-spd eng
Italjet MM5B USA mcycle Italjet Italjet Italy 1977-78 Morini S5K2 1-spd eng
Italtelai USA maker Pacer Italtelai Italy 1977-83 Morini 1-sp and 2-sp eng
Itavelo Euro moped Itavelo Itavelo Italy not in US Morini 1-sp and 2-sp eng
Itom Automatic Lusso Euro moped Itom Itom Italy not in US Verona 1-sp engine
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Jawa USA maker Jawa Jawa Czech R. 1976-05 Jawa 1-speed engine
Jawa Babetta USA moped Jawa Jawa Czech 1976-79 Jawa 1-speed engine
Jawa X20 USA moped Jawa Jawa Czech 1980-90? 20mph 1-spd engine
Jawa X25 USA moped Jawa Jawa Czech 1980-90? 25mph 1-spd engine
Jawa X30 USA moped Jawa Jawa Czech 1980-90? 30mph 1-spd engine
Jawa Sport USA moped Jawa Jawa Czech R. 1990-05? 30mph 1-spd engine
Jawa Supersport USA moped Jawa Jawa Czech R. 1990-05? 30mph 1-spd engine
Jawa Ultrasport USA moped Jawa Jawa Czech R. 1990-05? 30mph 1-spd engine
JC Penney USA brand JC Penney Kromag Austria 1978-79 Puch 1-spd 7-fin engine
Jeans USA moped Gitane Testi Italy 1976-77 Min V1, its a Cosmo Amico
Jikov 2909 components Jawa Jawa Czech 1976-05 Jawa carburetor 9mm
Jog CE50 USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1986-86 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Jog CG50 USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1988-91 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Jog CY50 USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1992-01 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Jui Li USA maker General Jui Li Enterprise Taiwan 1977-80 Sachs or Minarelli engine
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Kasea USA brand Kasea Kasea China 2000-04? scooters
Kawa USA engine Lazer Kawa? China 2007-07 Kawa, copy of Honda PC50
Kawasaki USA brand Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan 1964-on m-cycles
Kawasaki B1L USA mcycle Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan
Kawasaki C1D USA mcycle Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan
Kawasaki C2SS USA mcycle Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan
Kawasaki F2 USA mcycle Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan
Kawasaki F21M USA mcycle Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan
Kawasaki F3 USA mcycle Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan
Kawasaki F4 USA mcycle Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan
Kawasaki G1L USA mcycle Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan
Kawasaki G1M USA mcycle Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan
Kawasaki G3TR USA mcycle Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan
Kawasaki GA2 USA mcycle Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan
Kawasaki M50 USA mcycle Kawasaki Kawasaki Japan
Kinetic USA brand Kinetic Kinetic India 1994-05? mopeds and scooters
Kinetic Luna TFR India mop. Kinetic Kinetic India not in US partial copy of Vespa 1-sp
Kinetic Magnum USA scooter Kinetic Kinetic India 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Kinetic TFR USA moped Kinetic Kinetic India 1994-01? partial copy of Vespa 1-sp
Kinetic TFR USA USA moped Kinetic Kinetic India 2002-05? improved TFR
KML40 USA moped Fly. Dutch. Otto Kynast Germany 1977-80 Sachs 504 or 508 2-speed
Kobra USA moped Avanti Mont Motors India 1999-03 copy of Garelli 2-speed
Korado Puch USA moped Manet Manet/Piaggio Slovakia 1993-02? copy of Puch 1-spd eng
Krauser/Kreidler alt. name Kreidler Kreidler Germany not in US 50cc racers 120mph
Kreidler USA brand Kreidler Kreidler Germany 1976-80 Kreidler 2-speed engine
Kreidler Flory USA moped Kreidler Kreidler Germany 1976-80 Flory replaced Florett
Kreidler MP-9 USA moped Kreidler Kreidler Germany 1976-80 Flory 2-spd spoke wheels
Kreidler MP-19 USA moped Kreidler Kreidler Germany 1976-80 Flory 2-speed mag wheels
Kromag USA maker Sears  JCP Kromag Austria 1978-79 Puch 1-spd 7-fin engine
KTM USA maker Foxi KTM Austria 1976-80 Sachs 504/1A eng CEV mag
Kymco USA brand Kymco Kymco Taiwan 1998-on scooters mostly
Kynast USA maker Fly. Dutch. Otto Kynast Germany 1977-80 Sachs 504 or 508 2-speed
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Laguna USA moped Derbi Derbi Spain 1978-80 later called Sport Laguna
Lambretino Euro moped Lambretta Innocenti Italy 1965-70 1-sp 25mph “Debramatic”
Lambretta USA scooter Lambretta Innocenti Italy 1950-72 similar to Vespa scooters
Lance USA moped NVT Nort. Villiers Tr. England 1976-79 Morini MO-1 engine
Laura M48 USA engine Batavus Laura (original) Holland 1976-80 1-speed, V-belt on left
Laura M56 USA engine Trac  Bat. Laura (original) Holland 1978-80 1-spd, toothed belt on R
Lazer USA brand Lazer Jui Li Enterprise Taiwan 1977-78 North American Roosevelt
Lazer Sport 50 USA moped Lazer Jui Li Enterprise Taiwan 1977-78 Minarelli V1 eng, top tank
Lazer Sprint 50 alt. name Lazer Jui Li Enterprise Taiwan 1977-78 misprint, should be Sport
Lazer USA brand Lazer CABMMC  Kawa China 2005-on first one was different 14″
Lazer Baron USA moped Lazer Kawa? China 2007-07 Kawa, copy of Honda PC50
Lazer Sport II USA moped Lazer C.A. Bashan MMC China 2008-08 50cc OHV 1-spd 17″ spoke
Lazer SSR alt. name Lazer C.A. Bashan MMC China 2009-11 50cc OHV 1-sp blk 3r mags
Lazer SSR 2-spd alt. name Lazer C.A. Bashan MMC China 2009-11 50cc 4-str selectable hi/lo
LEM USA brand LEM LEM Motor Italy 50cc kids dirt bikes mostly
LEM USA moped LEM LEM Motor Italy 1976-77 Minarelli V1 20mph
Le Moped USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1980-80 Motobecane CVT engine
Lifan LF50QT-3-2 USA scooter Lifan Lifan China 2003-04 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Lifan LF50QT-3-4 USA scooter Lifan Lifan China 2003-04 50cc 4-stroke CVT
Lifan LF50QT-2A USA scooter Lifan Lifan China 2005-06 50cc 4-stroke CVT
Linhai Aeolus USA scooter Linhai Linhai China 2005-07? 50-300cc 4-stroke CVT
Lusso Euro moped Itom Itom Italy not in US Verona 1-sp engine
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M48 USA engine Batavus Laura (original) Holland 1976-80 1-speed, V-belt on left
M50 USA mcycle Harley Dav. Aermacci Italy 1965-67 50cc 2-speed grip shift
M50S USA mcycle Harley Dav. Aermacci Italy 1965-67 50cc 2-s grip shift top tank
M56 USA engine Batavus Laura (original) Holland 1978-80 1-spd, toothed belt on R
M56 USA engine Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1979-85 good copy of M56
M65 USA mcycle Harley Dav. Aermacci Italy 1967-72 65cc 2-speed grip shift
M65S USA mcycle Harley Dav. Aermacci Italy 1967-72 65cc 2-s grip shift top tank
Magnum USA moped Baretta Piccoli Motori Italy 1977-79 Minarelli V1 engine
Magnum USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1978-81 Puch 1-spd or 2-spd engine
Magnum USA scooter Kinetic Kinetic India 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Maico USA brand Maico Bimotor Italy 1976-79 Minarelli V1 engine
Majestic alt. name Hero Hero Majestic India 1992-05 parent company of Hero
Malaguti USA brand Malaguti Malaguti Italy 1975-80 Minarelli V1 engine
Malaguti Commuter USA moped Malaguti Malaguti Italy 1976-78 Morini MO1 engine
Malaguti Commuter I USA moped Malaguti Malaguti Italy 1979-80 Morini M1 reed engine
Malaguti Commuter II USA moped Malaguti Malaguti Italy 1978-79 Morini MO2 2-spd engine
Malagutti Ronchito USA mcycle Malaguti Malaguti Italy 1985-87 Morini S5K2 1-s 15/12″rims
Malaguti Phantom USA scooter Malaguti Malaguti Italy 2000-03? 50cc Minarelli/Morini CVT
Malaguti Saigon 50 Vietnam sco Malaguti Malaguti Italy 1965-65 50cc scooter American GI’s
Malaguti Yesterday USA scooter Malaguti Malaguti Italy 2002-03?
Malanca Roxi USA moped Malanca Malanca SpA Italy 1977-78 47.6cc (Min 38.0 20mph?)
Manet USA brand Manet Manet/Piaggio Slovakia 1993-02? copy of Puch 1-spd eng
Manhattan (20) USA scooter Derbi Derbi Spain 1998-99 50cc 2-stroke CVT 20mph
Manhattan USA scooter Derbi Derbi Spain 1998-99 50cc 2-stroke CVT 45mph
Maxi USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1974-86 America’s #1 moped
Maxi N USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1975-76 1-spd 7-fin thin spoke wls
Maxi S USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1975-76 1-spd 7-fin thin spoke wls
Maxi Luxe USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1977-78 1-spd 8-fin spoke whls
Maxi Sport USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1977-78 1-spd 8-fin cross mags
MBK Euro brand MBK MBK Industrie France 1984-on replaced Motobecane
MBK Booster 50 Euro scooter MBK MBK/Yamaha France not in US 02-09 it’s a Yamaha Zuma
McCulloch USA engine AMF McCulloch USA 1977-80 gardening equipment
M-Class Cycle alt. name Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 1994-98 stickers say it on sides
Medalist USA moped Motron Motron Italy 1978-79 Minarelli V1 engine
Medallion USA moped Colombia Colombia Manuf. USA 1978-80 Sachs 505/1A top tank
Metropolitan USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 2002-on 50cc OHC CVT 45mph
Metropolitan II USA scooter Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 2002-on 50cc OHC CVT 30mph
Minarelli Euro engine many F.B. Minarelli Co. Italy not in US bought by Yamaha in 2002
Minarelli V1 USA engine many Motori Minarelli Italy 1974-78 silver fan shroud different
Minarelli V1 late USA engine many Motori Minarelli Italy 1979-88? black fan shroud, big head
Minarelli V1L reed valve USA engine many Motori Minarelli Italy 1980-88? reed valve, more torque
Minarelli V1HL elect start USA engine many Motori Minarelli Italy 1982-88? r.v. w/elect start for trike
Minarelli V2 variator USA engine many Motori Minarelli Italy 1982-88? CVT for more torque & spd
Mini Kid USA moped Intramotor Intramotor Gloria Italy 1977-79 Verona eng 9″ rims folding
MkII alt. name Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1978-80 2-spd Sport and Magnum
Mobat USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1976-80 Laura M48 1-spd engine
Moby USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1980-80 same as 1979 50V
Mobylette alt. name Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1974-80 many kinds “little mobile”
Model 7 USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1977-78 MB 1-sp many differences
Mondial USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1980-82? Peugeot 103 CVT engine
Mont USA moped Avanti Mont Motors India 1999-03 copy of Gar 2sp but its 1sp
Mont Motors USA maker Avanti Mont Motors India 1999-03 copy of Garelli 2-speed
Montgomery Wards alt. name Wards-Riv. several makers several 1955-65? Mont. Wards Riverside
Monza USA moped Garelli Garelli Italy 1981-84 2-speed ver cyl step thru
Monza GT USA moped Garelli Garelli Italy 1981-85 2-speed vert cyl top tank
Mopet USA moped Colombia Colombia Manuf. USA 1977-79 Sachs or Solo engines
Moprix USA moped Taiwanese Tas Taiwan 1977-79 = Speed Bird (Tas)
Morini USA engine many Motori Morini Italy 1975-85 Morini Franco Motori SpA
Moskito USA scooter MZ MZ Germany 2001-02 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Mosquito Euro moped Garelli Garelli Italy not in US bicycle engine 1946-1970
Motobecane USA brand Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1974-80 became MBK in 1983
Motobecane 7 USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1978-78 1-spd, hard tail, different
Motobecane 40 USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1978-79 1-spd, hard tail, solo seat
Motobecane 40 TL USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1976-77 SS fenders, spdo, fork lock
Motobecane 40 TS USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1976-77 painted fen. no spd or lock
Motobecane 50 USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1978-79 1-speed , full suspension
Motobecane 50 L USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1976-77 SS fenders, spdo, fork lock
Motobecane 50 S USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1976-77 painted fen. no spd or lock
Motobecane 50 V USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1978-79 CVT (variator), solo seat
Motobecane 50 VL USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1976-79 CVT (variator), long seat
Motobecane 50 VLA USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1978-79 CVT, long seat, mags
Motobecane 50 VLX USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1978-79 CVT, solo seat, off road
Motobecane Cady Can. moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France not in US clutch & mag both on left!
Motobecane Horse (Solex) USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1980-80 1-spd friction drive 18mph
Motobecane Le Moped USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1980-80 50 VLA  extras, blk & gold
Motobecane Moby USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1980-80 same as 50 VL
Motobecane Sebring USA moped Motobecane Italy 1979-80 Morini MO1 or MO2 eng
Motobecane Traveler USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1980-80 same as 40 TS
Motobee RS100 USA moped Motobee  Testi Italy 1976-78 Minarelli V1 engine
Motobi USA maker Benelli Motobi (Benelli) Italy 1976-80 Benelli 1-spd engine
Moto Bimm USA maker Gadabout Moto Bimm Italy 1978-80 Minarelli V1 engine
Moto Biro Euro moped Moto Biro Italtelai Italy not in US Morini 1-sp and 2-sp eng
Moto Guzzi USA brand Moto Guzzi Motobi Italy 1976-80 Benelli 1-spd engine
Motomarina USA brand Motomarina Moto Bimm Italy 1985-90 Marina Mobili importer
Motomarina Raven USA moped Motomarina Moto Bimm Italy 1985-88 Minarelli V1 late engine
Motomarina Sebring USA moped Motomarina Moto Bimm? Italy 1980-85 Morini M1 reed valve eng
Motomarina Tri-Power USA 3Wmop Motomarina Pryer (rear end) USA 1985-88 3-wheel moped Min V1LH
Motomatic USA moped Carabela Acer-Mex S.A. Mexico 1977-80 different Minarelli V1
Moto Morini USA brand Moto Morini Moto Morini Italy 1960-90? bought by Cagiva in 1987
Moto Morini Chembol USA moped Moto Morini Moto Morini Italy 1978-80 MO1 eng, mini, 10″ rims
Moto Morini Praktical USA moped Moto Morini Moto Morini Italy 1978-80 MO1 eng Bernardi 16 mag
Motorrad Fabrik USA maker Kynast Otto Kynast Germany 1977-80 Sachs 504 or 508 2-speed
Motori Morini USA engine many Mor. Franco Mot. Italy 1954-09 MFM liquidated in 2009
Mo-Trek USA brand Mo-Trek Colombia Manuf. USA 1977-80 Colombia Commuter
Motron USA brand Motron Motron Italy 1978-80 Minarelli engines
Motron Classic USA moped Motron Motron Italy 1978-79 Minarelli V1, long seat
Motron Fairway USA moped Motron Motron Italy 1980-81 Minarelli V2 CVT engine
Motron Medalist USA moped Motron Motron Italy 1978-79 Minarelli V1, solo seat
Motron Sprint USA moped Motron Motron Italy 1978-79 Minarelli V1, bare bones
Murray USA brand Murray Murray Ohio MC USA 1977-80 Puch 1-spd 7-fin engine
Murray 8315 USA moped Murray Murray Ohio MC USA 1978-80 silver, solo seat, 25mph
Murray 8320 USA moped Murray Murray Ohio MC USA 1978-80 silver, solo seat, 30mph
Murray 8415 USA moped Murray Murray Ohio MC USA 1978-80 yellow, long seat, 25mph
Murray 8420 USA moped Murray Murray Ohio MC USA 1978-80 yellow, long seat, 30mph
Murray 8416 USA moped Murray Murray Ohio MC USA 1978-80 blu/chr, long seat, 25mph
Murray 8421 USA moped Murray Murray Ohio MC USA 1978-80 blu/chr, long seat, 30mph
Murray 8515 USA moped Murray Murray Ohio MC USA 1979-80 green, 8-ray mags, 25mph
Murray 8520 USA moped Murray Murray Ohio MC USA 1979-80 green, 8-ray mags, 30mph
MX3 USA moped Bike Motor Acimex Korea 1985-87 29.9cc 1.6 PS 22mph 1-spd
MX5 USA moped Bike Motor Acimex Korea 1987-89 33.6cc 1.9 PS 27mph 1-spd
MZ USA brand MZ MZ Germany 2001-02 m-cycles since 1922
MZ Moskito USA scooter MZ MZ Germany 2001-02 50cc 2-stroke CVT
MZ Moskito SX USA scooter MZ MZ Germany 2001-02 bigger than Moskito
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Negrini USA brand Negrini Negrini Italy 1978-80 importer Marina Mobili
Negrini Gazelle USA moped Negrini Negrini Italy 1978-78 Morini MO1, separate tank
Negrini Gazelle II USA moped Negrini Negrini Italy 1978-79 Morini MO2 2-spd engine
Negrini Gazelle III USA moped Negrini Negrini Italy 1979-82 Morini M1 reed engine
Negrini Harvard USA moped Negrini Negrini Italy 1979-79 Morini MO1, tank-frame
Negrini Harvard II USA moped Negrini Negrini Italy 1980-80 Morini M1, mag wheels
Negrini KPN City Cross USA moped Negrini Negrini Italy 1980-80 Morini M1, 19 & 17″ rims
Negrini Leprotto Euro moped Negrini Negrini Italy 1970-75? Gyromat MO1 engine
Negrini MX Sport USA moped Negrini Negrini Italy 1977-79 MO1 spoke/mags top tank
Negrini MX Sport II USA moped Negrini Negrini Italy 1978-79 MO2, mag whls, top tank
Negrini MX Sport III USA moped Negrini Negrini Italy 1980-82 M1, spoke/mags, top tank
Newport USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1977-79 replaced by Newport II
Norton Villiers Triumph USA brand NVT Nort. Villiers Tr. England 1976-79 model “Easy Rider”
Nusun USA brand Nusun formerly Sundiro China 2002-05 formerly Amer. Sundiro
Nusun Holiday USA scooter Nusun China 2002-05 50cc 2-stroke CVT
NSU Quickly Eng. moped NSU NSU Germany 1960-72? common in 60s England
NVT USA brand NVT Nort. Villiers Tr. England 1976-79 Morini MO-1 engine
NVT Easy Rider USA moped NVT Nort. Villiers Tr. England 1976-79 Morini MO-1 engine
NVT Lance USA moped NVT Nort. Villiers Tr. England 1976-79 Morini MO-1 engine
NVT Ranger USA mcycle NVT Nort. Villiers Tr. England 1977-78 Morini MO-1 kick start
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Odymatic alt. name Odyssey Solo Germany 1977-78 Solo 2-speed
Odyssey USA brand Odyssey Solo Germany 1976-78 Solo 1-sp, dry clutch, belt
Odyssey 32/1 USA moped Odyssey Solo Germany 1976-78 Solo 1-sp, dry clutch, belt
Odyssey 40/1 USA moped Odyssey Solo Germany 1976-78 Solo 1-sp, dry clutch, belt
Odyssey 40/2 USA moped Odyssey Solo Germany 1976-78 30mph “normal” model
OKS alt. name Gitane Testi Italy 1976-77 aka Gitane Sport
Omer Euro moped Omer Omer Italy not in US Morini 1-sp and 2-sp eng
Open Road USA moped Colombia Colombia Manuf. USA 1977-80 Sachs or Solo engines
Oscar Euro moped Oscar Oscar Italy not in US Morini 1-sp and 2-sp eng
Otto Kynast USA maker Fly. Dutch. Otto Kynast Germany 1976-80 Kynast = Motorrad Fabrik
Oxygen USA scooter Oxygen Oxygen W. SpA. Italy 2003-04 = Zap Lepton, elect 27mph
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P50 Little Honda USA moped Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1967-68 50cc eng inside rear wheel
Pacer USA brand Pacer Italtelai Italy 1976-83 Morini 1-sp and 2-sp eng
Pacer I USA moped Pacer Italtelai Italy 1976-77 MO-1, paint. fend, no spdo
Pacer II USA moped Pacer Italtelai Italy 1976-77 MO-1, painted fenders
Pacer III USA moped Pacer Italtelai Italy 1976-77 MO-1, SS fenders, chrome
Pacer 25 USA moped Pacer Italtelai Italy 1977-78 Morini MO-1, silv fenders
Pacer Sport USA moped Pacer Italtelai Italy 1977-79 Morini MO-1, SS fenders
Pacer Sport 2-sp USA moped Pacer Italtelai Italy 1978-79 Morini MO-2, SS fenders
Pacer Sport USA moped Pacer Italtelai Italy 1980-84 Morini M1 reed, SS fends
Pacer Super Sport USA moped Pacer Italtelai Italy 1977-79 Morini MO-1, SS, top-tank
Pacer Super Sp 2s USA moped Pacer Italtelai Italy 1978-79 Morini MO-2, SS, top-tank
Pacer Super Sport USA moped Pacer Italtelai Italy 1980-84 Morini M1, SS, top-tank
Pack 2 USA moped Italjet Italjet Italy 1978-80 folding moped Vespa eng
Packaway USA moped Italjet Italjet Italy 1977-79 folding moped MO-1 eng
Paddock USA scooter Derbi Derbi Spain 1998-99? 50cc 2-stroke CVT scooter
Pagani (CEV) components many Fratelli Pagani Italy 1974-07 lights, electrical parts
Paijifa Romp USA moped Motobecane Paijifa Industrial Taiwan 1981-82? copy of Motobecane 50V
Pacemaker II USA moped Whizzer Whizzer Taiwan 2002-05 120?cc 4-str flathead 1-sp
Panda USA brand Panda China scooters and m-cycles
Panther USA moped Whizzer Whizzer Taiwan 2003-05 148cc 4-str flathead 1-spd
Passport USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1980-83 70cc OHC 3-spd foot shift
Paul Soni 2 USA moped Soni Kinetic India 1977-78? 19″ tires, similar to Ciao?
PC50 Little Honda USA moped Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1969-70 50cc OHV 1-spd 30mph
People USA scooter Kymco Kymco Taiwan 2001-on 50-250cc OHC CVT
Peugeot USA brand Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1976-82 started in 1880
Peugeot 102 alt. name Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1979-82 Peugeot 1-spd engine
Peugeot 102 SPB USA moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1979-82 Peugeot 1-spd engine
Peugeot 103 alt. name Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1976-82 Peugeot 1-spd reed eng
Peugeot 103 LS USA moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1976-82 Peugeot 1-spd reed eng
Peugeot 103 LVS USA moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1976-82 Peugeot CVT reed eng
Peugeot 103 SP USA moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1978-82 Peugeot CVT reed eng
Peugeot 103 SPB USA moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1978-82 Peugeot CVT reed eng
Peugeot 103 SPR USA moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1978-82 Peugeot CVT reed eng
Peugeot 104 Euro moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France not in US Peugeot CVT reed eng
Peugeot Centri Euro moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France not in US Centri means 103 cent trois
Peugeot TSM USA moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France 1978-82 Peugeot CVT reed top tank
Peugeot TSE Euro moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France not in US Peugeot CVT reed top tank
Peugeot Vogue Euro moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France not in US Peugeot 1/s and CVT
PGO Star 50 USA scooter P.G.O Yeu Tyan Mach. Taiwan 1986-90 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Piaggio USA maker many Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1950-on Parent of Vespa and others
Piccoli Motori USA maker Baretta Piccoli Motori Italy 1977-79 Minarelli V1 engine
Pinto USA moped JC Penney Kromag Austria 1978-79 Puch 1-spd 7-fin engine
Pinto 2 USA moped JC Penney Kromag Austria 1978-79 Puch 1-spd 7-fin engine
Pride USA scooter Kinetic Kinetic India 1995-99 50cc 2-stroke Variomatic
Pryer USA brand Pryer Pryer Motorcraft USA 1985-91? Tomos A3 with trike kit
Pryer Hot Food Vendor USA 3Wmop Pryer Pryer & Tomos USA 1985-91? differential w/hot box
Pryer Ice Cream Vendor USA 3Wmop Pryer Pryer & Tomos USA 1985-91? differential w/cold box
Pryer Road Runner USA 3Wmop Pryer Pryer & Tomos USA 1985-91? differential drive, basket
Pryer Road Runner w/box USA 3Wmop Pryer Pryer & Tomos USA 1985-91? differential drive, trunk
Puch USA brand Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1974-86 America’s #1 moped
Puch Dart USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1984-85 1-spd 8-fin lightweight
Puch GN USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1976-78 1-spd 7-fin hard tail frame
Puch Magnum USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1978-80 1-sp & 2-sp 9-fin top tank
Magnum II USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1980-83 2-spd 9-fin spoke, top tank
Magnum LTD USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1981-81 100 yr anniversary edition
Magnum MkII USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1978-79 2-spd 9-fin, mags, top tank
Magnum X USA mcycle Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1978-79 1-spd 9-fin kids dirt bike
Magnum XK USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1978-79 1-spd 9-fin spoke, top tank
Puch Maxi USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1974-79 1-spd 7-fin thin spoke wls
Puch Maxi USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1980-83 1-spd 7-fin SB spoke whls
Puch Maxi II USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1978-79 2-spd 8-fin spoke whls
Puch Maxi N USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1975-76 1-spd 7-fin thin spoke wls
Puch Maxi S USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1975-76 1-spd 7-fin thin spoke wls
Puch Maxi Sport USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1977-78 1-spd 8-fin cross mags
Puch MS50 Euro moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1950-60? very common in the 50’s
Puch Newport USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1977-78 1-spd 8-fin spoke whls
Puch Newport II USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1980-80 2-spd 8-fin SB spoke whls
Puch Nostalgic USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1974-75 1-spd 7-fin thin spoke wls
Puch Series B USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1981-83 1-spd 7-fin SB spoke whls
Puch Sport USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1978-79 1-spd 8-fin cross mags
Puch Sport MkII USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1978-80 2-spd 8-fin cross mags
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Qing Qi USA scooter Qing Qi Qing Qi China 1985-90? 50cc 2-stroke CVT
QMB139 (39mm) USA scooter many China 2000-on? 49cc 4-s scooter engine
QMB140 (40mm) USA scooter many China 2000-on? 49cc 4-s = Yamaha Jog?
QMJ152 (52mm) USA scooter many China 2000-on? 125cc 4-s scooter engine
QMB157 (57mm) USA scooter many China 2000-on? 150cc 4-s scooter engine
QT50 USA noped Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1979-88 1-sp w/driveshaft 14″rim
Quickly English mop NSU NSU Germany 1960-72? common in 60s England
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Rally Sport USA moped Garelli Agrati Garelli Italy 1977-86 1-speed horiz cylinder
Rattler USA scooter Genuine Genuine? Taiwan? 2003-06 110cc 2-stroke CVT
Raven USA moped Motomarina Moto Bimm Italy 1985-88 Minarelli V1 late engine
Razz USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1987-01 50cc 2-stroke CVT
RD50 USA moped Derbi Derbi Spain 1981-88 dirt bike moped, was C5
Regency USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1978-80 Laura M56 1-spd, top tank
Regency VA USA moped Batavus Batav. Intercycle Holland 1978-80 Laura M56 1-spd, step thru
Revival A35 USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2001-04 A35 2-spd deluxe model
Revival A55 USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2004-on A55 2-spd deluxe model
Revolution Euro noped Derbi Derbi Spain not in US Start 3 CVT eng kick start
Riga Euro brand Riga Riga Russia not in US Riga?
Riva USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1984-on 125-180cc 4-stroke CVT
Riverside USA moped Wards-Riv. Ateliers de la Mo. France 1955-65? 1959 Riverside MB moped
Riverside USA moped Wards-Riv. Benelli (Motobi) Italy 1955-65? Riverside 50 2-s grip shift
Rizzato USA brand Rizatto C. Rizatto & C. Italy 1977-80 Rizatto 1-spd engine
Roadpower USA scooter Yumbo Hero Majestic India 2001-03 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Road Runner USA moped Taiwanese = Wheel King Taiwan 1977-79 Sachs 505/1A 1-spd
Roadmaster USA moped AMF Am Mach & Foun. USA 1977-80 McColloch or Minarelli
Robin USA moped Moto Guzzi Motobi Italy 1976-80 Benelli 1-spd engine
Romp USA moped Motobecane Paijifa Industrial Taiwan 1981-82? copy of MB 50V
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Sachs USA brand Sachs Hercules Werks Germany 1976-90 Sachs 504 or 505 engines
Sachs Madass USA mcycle Sachs Sachs/China? China? 2005-07 50cc 4-stroke 1-spd slow
Sachs M1 Balboa USA moped Sachs Hercules Werks Germany 1976-80 505/1A foot brk, spoke whl
Sachs M2 Balboa USA moped Sachs Hercules Werks Germany 1978-79 505/1A foot brk, mag whls
Sachs M4 Euro moped Sachs Hercules Werks Germany not in US 505
Sachs M5 Euro moped Sachs Hercules Werks Germany not in US 505
Sachs P1 Westlake USA moped Sachs Hercules Werks Germany 1976-80 504/1A 1-sp spoke wheels
Sachs P2 Westlake USA moped Sachs Hercules Werks Germany 1978-79 504/1A 1-spd mag wheels
Sachs P3 Euro moped Sachs Hercules Werks Germany not in US 504
Sachs Prima USA moped Sachs Hercules Werks Germany 1979-86 505/1D foot brk, mag whls
Sachs Prima G3 USA moped Sachs Hercules Werks Germany 1979-86 505/1D foot brk, mag whls
Sachs Seville USA moped Sachs Hercules Werks Germany 1980-85 505/1D fb, mags, oil inject
Sachs Suburban USA moped Sachs Hercules Werks Germany 1979-85 505/1D foot brk, mag whls
Sachs Sundancer USA moped Sachs Hercules Werks Germany 1980-85 P1 = Westlake = Sundancer
Sachs Westlake USA moped Sachs Hercules Werks Germany 1978-79 P1 = Westlake = Sundancer
Safari USA brand Safari imported by MBI Italy 1976-81 Minarelli or Rovet engine
Safari 300 MT USA moped Safari imported by MBI Italy 1978-80 Minarelli V1 engine
Safari 400 MT USA moped Safari imported by MBI Italy 1978-81 Minarelli V1 late engine
Safari Cobra USA moped Safari imported by MBI Italy 1979-80 Minarelli V1 engine
Safari Fox USA moped Safari imported by MBI Italy 1976-78 front Rovet engine
Safari Leader USA moped Safari imported by MBI Italy 1979-80 Minarelli V1 engine
Safari Shadow USA moped Safari imported by MBI Italy 1976-78 Minarelli V1 engine
Salzburg USA moped Foxi KTM Austria 1977-80 Sachs 504/1A eng CEV mag
Scalambra Euro moped Scalambra Scalambra Italy not in US Morini 1-sp and 2-sp eng
Scorpion USA brand Scorpion Nort. Villiers Tr. England 1977-80 same as N.V.T.
Scorpion SC1 USA moped Scorpion Nort. Villiers Tr. England 1977-80 Morini MO-1 engine
Scorpion SC2 USA moped Scorpion Nort. Villiers Tr. England 1977-80 Morini MO-2 engine
Scorpion SC2X USA moped Scorpion Nort. Villiers Tr. England 1977-80 Morini MO-2 engine
Scout USA moped Intramotor Intramotor Gloria Italy 1976-78 Verona MO-1 eng
Sears USA brand Sears several makers several 1950-80? m-cycles,scooters,mopeds
Sears Allstate USA moped Sears Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1950-70? 2-spd grip shift 30mph
Sears Allstate USA scooter Sears Piaggio and Co. Italy 1950-70? Sears-Vespa scooters
Sears Free Spirit USA moped Sears Kromag Austria 1978-79 Puch 1-spd 7-fin engine
Sears Sabre USA mcycle Sears Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1964-68? Puch 4-spd 50cc fan cooled
Sebring USA moped Motobecane Moto Bimm? Italy 1978-79 Morini MO-1 or MO-2
Sebring USA moped Motomarina Moto Bimm? Italy 1980-85 Morini M1 reed valve eng
Sense USA scooter Kasea Kasea China 2000-03 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Seville USA moped Sachs Hercules Germany 1980-85 505/1D fb, mags, oil inject
Shadow USA moped Concord Concord? Italy 1980-84? Minarelli late V1, top tank
Shadow USA moped Safari imported by MBI Italy 1976-78 Minarelli V1 engine
Sheriff USA scooter Hero Hero Majestic India 1999-05 50cc CVT engine
Shuttle USA noped Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1979-84 50cc 2-stroke 1-spd noped
Si USA moped Vespa Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1979-88 CVT belt 20,25,30mph
Sierra 50 USA moped AMS Her Chee Indust. Taiwan 1978-83 Sachs 505/1D step-thru
Silver Bullet USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Yugosla. 1979-85 A3 2-speed oil injection
Silver Foxi USA moped Foxi Testi Italy 1976-77 Minarelli V1 engine
Simonini Moto Euro moped Simonini Simonini Moto Italy not in US Morini 1-sp and 2-sp eng
SL USA moped Derbi Derbi Spain 1976-86 Derbi CVT heavy duty
SLE USA moped Derbi Derbi Spain 1977-86 Derbi CVT heavy duty
Smily USA moped DEMM Daldi & Matteucci Italy 1977-78 Demm 1-speed auto
Snark USA brand Snark Bianchi Italy 1977-79 Minarelli V1 engine
Snark Standard USA moped Snark Bianchi Italy 1977-79 Minarelli V1 engine
Snark Deluxe USA moped Snark Bianchi Italy 1977-79 Minarelli V1 engine
Snark Satellite USA moped Snark Bianchi Italy 1977-79? Morini MO-1 engine?
Snark Stardust USA moped Snark Bianchi Italy 1977-79? Morini MO-1 engine?
Solex Euro maker Solex Solex France 1905-88 carburetors and Velosolex
Solex 45 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1946-54 45cc friction drive 16mph
Solex 330 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1953-55 49cc friction drive 16mph
Solex 660 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1955-57 new frame
Solex 1010 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1957-58 new cylinder, piston, ex
Solex 1400 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1958-59 new 19″ rims
Solex 1700 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1959-61 new motor, clutch
Solex S 2200 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1961-64 more power, 3000rpm
Solex S 3300 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1964-66 new bolt-together frame
Solex S 3800 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1966-88 inverted levers
Solex S 3800 USA moped Solex Impex Hungary 1999-05 well made copy of Solex
Solex 4600 V2 USA moped Solex Motobecane France 1975-76 Magura levers, CEV lights
Solex S 4800 Euro moped Black’nRoll Mopex 2005-08
Solex 5000 Euro moped Solex Motobecane France 1971-88 16″ wheels instead of 19″
Solex Micron Euro moped Solex Motobecane France 1968-74 12″ wheels bolt together
Solex Pli-Solex Euro moped Solex Motobecane France 1973-74 folding version of 5000
Solex Flash, 6000 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1969-77 sideways eng. shaft drive
Solex Tenor (8000) Euro moped Solex Solex France 1973-77 4 different engines
Solex replica Euro moped Hong Du China 1976-on
Solex replica Euro moped Chang Jiang China 2005-on
Solo USA maker Odyssey Solo Germany 1976-79 Solo 1-sp, dry clutch, belt
Soni USA brand Paul Soni Kinetic India 1977-78? 19″ tires, similar to Ciao?
Sparta USA maker Sparta Sparta Holland 1976-80 = Foxi = Flying Dutchman
Sparta Buddy USA maker Sparta Sparta Holland 1976-80 = Foxi GT, painted fenders
Sparta Deluxe USA maker Sparta Sparta Holland 1976-80 = Foxi GT Deluxe, chro fen
Speed Bird USA moped Angel TYM Industries Taiwan 1977-79 1-spd, dry clutch, belt
Speed Bird (Tas) USA moped Taiwanese Tas Taiwan 1978-79 close but different
Speedfight Euro scooter Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France not in US 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Spisni Lino USA maker West Wind Spisni Lino Italy 1976-77 Morini MO-1 engine
Sport USA moped Gitane Testi Italy 1976-78 Min V1, tubular, sep. tank
Sport USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1978-79 1-spd 8-fin cross mags
Sport MkII USA moped Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1978-80 2-spd 8-fin cross mags
Sprint USA moped Motron Motron Italy 1978-79 stripped Motron Medalist
Sprint USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 1993-on 2-speed basic model
Sprinter USA moped Taiwanese Gemini? Taiwan 1978-79 a Commander w/Casal eng
SS (Sixteener Special) alt. name Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1972-77 FS1E England 16-17 yr olds
Stella USA scooter Stella LML India 2002-05? copy of 60’s Vespa Sprint
Suvega Euro brand Suvega Suvega India 1977-78? copy of Motobecane AV44
Suzuki USA brand Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1952-on motorcycles and cars
Suzuki A100 USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1976-79
Suzuki A50 USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan
Suzuki AC100 USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan
Suzuki AC50 USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan
Suzuki AP50 English mop Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1974-77? 50cc 5-spd man w/pedals
Suzuki AS100 Gopher USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1977-77? 100cc 5-spd man Gohper
Suzuki AS50 Maverick USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1970-70? 49cc 5hp 5-spd man 62mph
Suzuki F50 USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1970-71
Suzuki FA50 Shuttle USA noped Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1978-91 50cc 2-stroke 1-spd noped
Suzuki FS50 USA scooter Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1981-81 50cc 2-stroke 2-sp? noped
Suzuki FD50 USA noped Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1983-83 50cc 2-stroke 2-sp? noped
Suzuki FR50 Scooterette Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan
Suzuki FZ50 Rascal USA noped Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1978-83 50cc 2-stroke 2-spd noped
Suzuki M31 Suzy USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1965-65? 55cc 2-stroke m-cycle
Suzuki RG50W USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1986-86
Suzuki RV50 USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan
Suzuki Selped Euro moped Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1960-62?
Suzuki TC100 USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1972-77
Suzuki TC120 USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1969-71
Suzuki TC90 USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1970-72
Suzuki TM75 USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1974-77
Suzuki TS100 USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1973-81
Suzuki TS50 USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1974-77
Suzuki TS75 USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1974-77
Suzuki TS90 USA mcycle Suzuki Suzuki Motor Co. Japan 1970-72
Swinger USA moped JC Penney Kromag Austria 1978-78 Puch 1-spd 7-fin engine
Swinger 2 USA moped JC Penney Kromag Austria 1978-79 Puch 1-spd 7-fin engine
S.W.M. Euro maker S.W.M. S.W.M. Italy not in US Morini 1-sp and 2-sp eng
SYM USA brand SYM SYM Taiwan 2007-on scooters and m-cycles
SYM Symba USA mcycle SYM SYM Taiwan 2009-on 101cc OHC 4-spd manual
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Tahoe 50 USA moped AMS Her Chee Indust. Taiwan 1978-83 Sachs 505/1D top-tank
Targa USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 1994-02 became ST in 2005
Testi USA maker many Testi Italy 1974-88? Minarelli V1 engine
TFR USA moped Kinetic Kinetic India 1995-05 partial copy of Vespa
T.G.M. Euro moped T.G.M. T.G.M. Italy not in US Morini 1-sp and 2-sp eng
TNG Lowboy 150 USA scooter TNG TNG? China 2009-10? 150cc OHC CVT
Tomberlin USA mcycle Tomberlin Tomberlin? China? 2005-06? 90-200cc off road
Tomos USA brand Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 1974-on all US Tomos are 2-speed
Tomos A3 USA engine Tomos Tomos Koper Yugosla. 1974-91 2-speed auto 20,25,30mph
Tomos A35 USA engine Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 1992-06 2-speed auto, beefier
Tomos A55 USA engine Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2001-on 2-speed high-efficiency
Tomos Arrow USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2005-05 A55 2-spd 12″ rims oil inj
Tomos Arrow-R USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2006-08 A55 2-spd 12″ rims oil inj
Tomos Bullet USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Yugosla. 1977-93 A3 2-speed premix 50:1
Tomos Colibri USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 1992-96 A35 2-spd deluxe oil inject
Tomos Golden B. USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Yugosla. 1985-93 A3 and A35 2-spd oil inject
Tomos LX USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2001-on A35 and A55 oil inj top tank
Tomos LX LTD USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2005-05 A35 2-spd oil inj top tank
Tomos MC36 USA mcycle Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2003-06 36cc A35 kick 10″ rims
Tomos MC50 Jr USA mcycle Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2003-06 50cc A35 kick 10″ rims
Tomos MC50 Sr USA mcycle Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2003-06 50cc A35 kick 14/12″ rims
Tomos MC50 Pro USA mcycle Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2003-06 50cc A35 kick 14/12″ rims
Tomos MC80 USA mcycle Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2004-06
Tomos Revival USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2001-04 A35 oil inject deluxe
Tomos Revival TS USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2004-on A55 oil inject deluxe
Tomos Sprint USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 1993-on A35 and A55 2-spd premix
Tomos Streetmate USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2005-on A55 2-spd oil inj top tank
Tomos Streetmate-R USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2008-on A55 2-spd oil inj top tank
Tomos ST USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2005-on A35 & A55 oil inj step thru
Tomos Silver Bullet USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Yugosla. 1979-85 A3 2-speed oil injection
Tomos Super Tom USA mcycle Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2001-03 A35 kick, off road kids
Tomos Targa USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 1994-01 A35 2-spd oil inj step thru
Tomos Targa LX USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 1994-01 A35 2-spd oil inj top tank
Tomos TT Classic USA moped Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 1998-99 A35 2-spd oil inj top tank
Tomos TX50 USA mcycle Tomos Tomos Koper Slovenia 2001-03? A35 2-sp kick off road kids
Torpado Euro moped Torpado Torpado Italy not in US Morini 1-sp and 2-sp eng
Trac USA brand Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1979-90 mopeds and nopeds
Trac Clipper USA brand Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1981-85 M56 1-spd toothed belt
Trac Clipper USA brand Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1985-87 DMC 1-spd black engine
Trac DH100 USA brand Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1987-89? DMC 100cc 4-spd manual
Trac Eagle USA brand Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1981-85 M56 1-spd toothed belt
Trac Escot USA brand Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1985-88 DMC 2-spd black kick start
Trac Hawk USA brand Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1981-85 M56 1-spd toothed belt
Trac Hawk USA brand Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1985-87 DMC 1-spd black engine
Trac Image USA brand Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1985-88 DMC 2-spd black kick start
Trac Liberty USA brand Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1985-88 DMC 2-spd black kick start
Trac Liberty ES USA brand Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1986-87 electric start
Trac Olympic USA brand Trac Dailim Motor Co Korea 1985-87 DMC 1-spd black engine
Traveler USA moped Motobecane Ateliers de la Mo. France 1980-80 same as 40 TS
Tri Power USA 3Wmop Motomarina Moto Bimm? Italy 1985-88 3-wheel moped Min V1LH
Tri Rad USA brand Tri Rad Mopeds Midwest USA 1979-81? 3-wheel moped Puch Maxi
Tri Rad Boxer Differential USA 3Wmop Tri Rad Mopeds Midwest USA 1979-81? 3W Puch 1-sp 8-fin w/diff.
Tri Rad Deluxe Different. USA 3Wmop Tri Rad Mopeds Midwest USA 1979-81? 3W Puch 1-sp 8-fin w/diff.
Tri Rad Deluxe 2-spd Diff. USA 3Wmop Tri Rad Mopeds Midwest USA 1979-81? 3W Puch 2-sp 8-fin w/diff.
Tri Rad Ice Cream Vendor USA 3Wmop Tri Rad Mopeds Midwest USA 1979-81? 3W Puch 1-sp 8-fin w/diff.
Tri Rad Pizza Vendor USA 3Wmop Tri Rad Mopeds Midwest USA 1979-81? 3W Puch 1-sp 8-fin w/diff.
Tri Rad Standard USA 3Wmop Tri Rad Mopeds Midwest USA 1979-81? 3W Puch 1-sp 7-fin 1WD
Tri Rad Standard Differen. USA 3Wmop Tri Rad Mopeds Midwest USA 1979-81? 3W Puch 1-sp 7-fin w/diff.
Tri Rad Town & Country USA 3Wmop Tri Rad Mopeds Midwest USA 1979-81? 3W Puch 1-sp 8-fin w/diff.
Tsing Hua SA50 USA moped Tsing Hua Taiwan 1978-79? Sachs 505/1A foot brake
TVS USA brand TVS TVS Motor Co. India 2002-03 TVS?
TVS Champ USA moped TVS TVS Motor Co. India 2002-03 1-spd,dry,belt fan cooled
TVS Scooty USA scooter TVS TVS Motor Co. India 2002-03 50cc 2-stroke CVT
TVS Sport USA noped TVS TVS Motor Co. India 2002-03 1-spd, oil bath, reed valve
TVS XL Super USA noped TVS TVS Motor Co. India 2002-03 1-spd, oil bath, reed valve
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Ultrasport USA moped Jawa Jawa Czech R. 1990-05? Jawa 1-speed engine
United Moped US importer Foxi several makers several 1976-80 Sachs 504/1A 1-spd
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Variant alt. name Derbi Derbi Spain 1976-89 most Derbis are Variants
Velosolex Euro maker Solex Solex France 1974-80 bought by MB in 1974
Velosolex 45 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1946-54 45cc friction drive 16mph
Velosolex 330 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1953-55 49cc friction drive 16mph
Velosolex 660 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1955-57 new frame
Velosolex 1010 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1957-58 new cylinder, piston, ex
Velosolex 1400 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1958-59 new 19″ rims
Velosolex 1700 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1959-61 new motor, clutch
Velosolex S 2200 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1961-64 more power, 3000rpm
Velosolex S 3300 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1964-66 new bolt-together frame
Velosolex S 3800 Euro moped Solex Solex France 1966-88 inverted levers
Velosolex 4600 V2 USA moped Solex Motobecane France 1975-76 Magura levers, CEV lights
Velosolex S 4800 Euro moped Black’nRoll Mopex(Hong du) China 2005-08
Velosolex 5000 Euro moped Solex Motobecane France 1971-88 16″ wheels instead of 19″
Velosolex Micron Euro moped Solex Motobecane France 1968-74 12″ wheels bolt together
Velosolex Pli-Solex Euro moped Solex Motobecane France 1973-74 folding version of 5000
Verona USA engine many Verona Italy 1975-77 same as Morini but 40mm
Vespa USA brand Vespa Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1974-88 Scooters and mopeds
Vespa Bravo USA moped Vespa Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1977-79 CVT, belt, 20,25,30mph
Vespa Ciao USA moped Vespa Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1974-88 1-spd belt 20,25,30mph
Vespa Grande USA moped Vespa Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1978-86 CVT 2-person 20,25,30
Vespa Si USA moped Vespa Piaggio & C.SpA Italy 1979-88 CVT belt 20,25,30mph
Villiers alt. name NVT Nort. Villiers Tr. England 1976-79 Morini MO-1 engine
Vogue Euro moped Peugeot Cycles Peugeot France not in US Peugeot 1/s and CVT
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Wards-Riverside USA moped Wards-Riv. Ateliers de la Mo. France 1955-65? 1959 Riverside MB moped
Wards-Riverside USA moped Wards-Riv. Benelli (Motobi) Italy 1955-65? Riverside 50 2-s grip shift
Wards-Riverside USA moped Wards-Riv. Benelli (Motobi) Italy 1955-65? Riverside 50 2s gs top tank
Westlake USA moped Sachs Hercules Germany 1976-80 504/1A 1-sp spoke wheels
West Wind GT USA moped West Wind Spisni Lino Italy 1976-77 Morini MO-1 engine
Wheel King USA moped Taiwanese = Road Runner Taiwan 1977-79 Sachs 505/1A 1-spd
Whizzer USA brand Whizzer Taiwan 1996-07 120-148cc 4-str flathead
Whizzer Cyclone USA moped Whizzer Whizzer-original USA 1939-58? heavy duty 26″ bike w/eng
Whizzer NE-5 USA brand Whizzer Taiwan 2004-06? copy of Whizzer
Whizzer Pacemaker USA brand Whizzer Taiwan 1997-03? copy of Whizzer
Winner USA scooter Hero Hero Majestic India 1998-01 50cc 2-stroke CVT
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X20 USA moped Jawa Jawa Czech 1980-90? 20mph 1-spd engine
X25 USA moped Jawa Jawa Czech 1980-90? 25mph 1-spd engine
X30 USA moped Jawa Jawa Czech 1980-90? 30mph 1-spd engine
X-Bike USA mcycle Avanti Mont Motors India 2001-03 kids off road Gar 2-s copy
Xkeleton Trickster USA mcycle Xkeleton Sachs-China? China? 2005-07? same as Sachs Madass
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Yamaha USA brand Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1964-on 1st reed valve, oil inject.
Yamaha CE50 Jog USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1986-87 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Yamaha CG50 Jog USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1988-90 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Yamaha Champ LC50 G,H USA noped Yamaha Yamaha Motor Japan 1980-81 Yamaha 2-spd auto
Yamaha Chappy LB50P D-I USA moped Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1977-82 50cc 2-s fat tires w/pedals
Yamaha Chappy LB80 C-E USA noped Yamaha Yamaha Motor Japan 1976-78 72cc 2-s fat tires no pedals
Yamaha Chappy LB80P C-E USA moped Yamaha Yamaha Motor Japan 1976-78 72cc 2-s fat tires w/pedals
Yamaha CW50 Zuma USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1988-90 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Yamaha CA50 Riva 50 USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1983-86 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Yamaha CV50 Riva 50 USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1984-85 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Yamaha CY50 Jog USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1991-01 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Yamaha DT50 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1988-90 50cc 2-str 6-spd LC 55mph
Yamaha FS1 Jap. mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1970-72 50cc 4-sp man 55mph
Yamaha FS1E English mop Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1972-77 50cc 4-sp 45mph w/pedals
Yamaha FS1E DX (FS1 DX) English mop Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1976-77 FS1E with disk brake
Yamaha FS1E A English mop Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1977-83 50cc 4-sp 35mph no pedals
Yamaha FS1E DXA English mop Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1977-83 FS1E-A with disk brake
Yamaha FS1F France mop Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1970-80? 50cc 4-sp 26mph w/pedals
Yamaha FS1M English mop Yamaha MBK/Yamaha France 1987-90? 50cc 4-sp 35mph no pedals
Yamaha FS1P Holland mp Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1970-80? 50cc 4-sp 26mph w/pedals
Yamaha G5S USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1969-69 73cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha G6S USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1970-71 73cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha G6SB USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1972-72 73cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha G7S USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1973-74 73cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha HS1 Twin Street 90 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1970-70 89cc 2s twin pp 5-spd man
Yamaha HS1B Twin Street USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1971-71 89cc 2s twin pp 5-spd man
Yamaha HT1 Enduro 90 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1970-70 89cc 2s pp 5-spd manual
Yamaha HT1B Enduro 90 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1971-71 89cc 2s pp 5-spd manual
Yamaha JT1 Trail 80 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1971-71 58cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha JT1L Trail 80 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1972-72 58cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha JT2 Trail 80 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1972-73 58cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha JT2M Mini 60 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1972-73 58cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha Jog CY50 USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1986-01 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Yamaha MG1T USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1968-69? 73cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha MJ1 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1964-64 55cc 2s rot 3-spd foot shift
Yamaha MJ2 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1965-65 55cc 2s rot 3-spd foot shift
Yamaha MJ2T USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1966-66 55cc 2s rot 3-spd manual
Yamaha MJ50 Towny USA noped Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1982-82 1-sp w/driveshaft 14″rim
Yamaha L5T Trail 100 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1969-69 97cc 2s rot 4-spd  lo/hi
Yamaha L5TA Trail 100 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1970-70 97cc 2s rot 4-spd  lo/hi
Yamaha LB50P D-I Chappy USA noped Yamaha Yamaha Motor Japan 1977-82 50cc 2-s fat tires w/pedals
Yamaha LB80 C-E Chappy USA noped Yamaha Yamaha Motor Japan 1976-78 80cc 2-s fat tires w/pedals
Yamaha LC50 G,H Champ USA noped Yamaha Yamaha Motor Japan 1980-81 Yamaha 2-spd auto
Yamaha LS2 Twin Street USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1972-72 97cc 2s twin pp 5-spd man
Yamaha LT2 Enduro 100 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1972-72 97cc 2s reed 5-spd manual
Yamaha Razz SH50 USA noped Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1987-01 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Yamaha Riva 125 (to 180) USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1984-on 125-180cc 4-stroke CVT
Yamaha Riva 50 USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1983-86 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Yamaha QT50 Yamahopper USA noped Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1979-88 1-sp w/driveshaft 14″rim
Yamaha SH50 Razz USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1987-01 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Yamaha Towny MJ50 USA noped Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1982-82 1-sp w/driveshaft 14″rim
Yamaha U5 Newport 50 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1964-64 50cc 2s rot 3-spd foot shift
Yamaha U5L Newport 50 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1965-65 50cc 2s rot 3-spd foot shift
Yamaha U5E Newport 50 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1965-65 50cc 2s rot 3-spd foot shift
Yamaha U7E Newport 70 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1972-72 50cc 2s rot 3-spd foot shift
Yamaha Vino 50 USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 2001-on 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Yamaha YA5 Santa Barbara USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1964-64 123cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YA6 Santa Barbara USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1965-65 123cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YG1 Yamaha 80 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1964-64 73cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YG1K Yamaha 80 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1965-65 73cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YG1T Trail 80 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1965-65 73cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YG1TK Trail 80 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1966-66 73cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YG5T Trailmaster USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1968-69 73cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YGS1 Sport 80 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1965-65 73cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YGS1K Sport 80 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1966-66 73cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YJ1 Campus 60 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1964-64 55cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YJ1K Campus 60 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1965-65 55cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YJ2 Campus 60 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1966-66 58cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YJ2S Campus 60 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1966-67 58cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YJ50 Vino 50 USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 2001-on 50cc 2-stroke CVT
Yamaha YL1 Twin Jet 100 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1964-66 98cc 2s twin pp 5-spd man
Yamaha YL1E Twin Jet 100 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1967-67 98cc 2s twin pp 5-spd man
Yamaha YL2 Rotary Jet 100 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1967-67 97cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YL2C Trailmaster USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1967-67 97cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YL2CM Trailmaster USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1968-68 97cc 2s rot 4-spd manual
Yamaha YSR50 USA mcycle Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1987-92 50cc 2s 5-spd man 53mph
Yamaha Zuma CW50 USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 2000-on two big round headlights
Yamahopper QT50 USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 1979-88 Yamaha QT50 Yamahopper
Yankee Peddler USA moped FMB FMB Ltd importer Italy 1977-79 Minarelli V1 engine
Yard Man USA moped Mo-Trek Colombia Manuf. USA 1977-80 its a Colombia Commuter
Yumbo USA brand Yumbo Hero Majestic India 2001-03? importer Mod Cycles Corp
Yumbo Free USA moped Yumbo Hero Majestic India 2001-03? semi-same as Hero Ankur
Yumbo Dakar USA mcycle Yumbo Hero Majestic India 2001-03? 125cc 5-speed manual
################## ######## ######## ########### ###### ###### ##################
Name What it is Bike Brand Who made it Where Yrs in US What engine
################## ######## ######## ########### ###### ###### ##################
Z50 Mini Trail USA mcycle Honda Honda Motor Co Japan 1968-78 50cc 3-spd foot shift (Z50)
ZA50 alt. name Puch Steyr Daim. Puch Austria 1978-86 what the 2-spd says on it
Zanetti Bicizeta Euro moped Zanetti Zanetti Italy not in US front eng friction drive
ZAP USA e-bike ZAP Zero Air Pollution USA 1996-01 electric bicycles and kits
ZAP Lepton USA scooter ZAP Zero Air Pollution USA 2000-03? electric scooter 25mph
Zappy USA scooter ZAP Zero Air Pollution USA 1997-00 electric stand-up scooter
Zipper USA e-bike Zipper Zipper Bike Engs USA 2000-03? electric bicycle kit
Zuma USA scooter Yamaha Yamaha Mot. Co. Japan 2000-on two big round headlights
Zundapp Euro maker Zundapp Zundapp Germany not in US m-cycles and mopeds
Zundapp KS50 USA mcycle Zundapp Zundapp Germany 1970-80?
ZX50 USA scooter Kymco Kymco Taiwan 1998-02? 50cc 2-stroke CVT
################## ######## ######## ########### ###### ###### ##################
TOTALS: USA moped 464 USA brand 91
USA mcycle 180 USA maker 39
Last update USA scooter 103 alternate name 45
3/18/2013 USA noped 34 USA trike moped 14
USA e-bike 17 All other kinds 160
TOTAL 1147


Sources:

1. Myrons Rides. Over 2000 participants have had their moped year, make, model meticulously recorded, by Shaun. Every rare moped is also photographed. In nine years of monthly rides, over 50,000 photographs have been taken. Out of that big pile of rocks, about 50 jewels were produced, which provided missing or previously unknown information. Many common bikes info, known from other sources, was also verified by first hand inspection.Here are the sources that were used to gather and organize all this information.

2. Myrons Service Department. Over 1500 mopeds have been serviced at Myrons since 1999. Whenever a rare kind comes in the door, Shaun documents and photographs it. Again, about 20 jewels came from that big pile of rocks, which provided key information. Also many common bikes were verified.

3. Original Manufacturer Literature. A wall of paperwork was sorted out in 2000-2003. Myrons Mopeds had purchased about 20 other moped shops left over inventory and literature. There were 12 Motobecane dealer notebooks, plus 10 Peugeot and 10 Puch ones. There were maybe a hundred parts catalogs containing black and white exploded view line drawings for dozens of brands. Then there were dozens of color sales brochures for most major brands.

4.  Books and Magazines. Several physical books were used. The most important are first:

  1. 1981 Moped and Economy Motorcycle Buyer’s Guide, Motorcyclist magazine, 1981
  2. The Complete Book of Mopeds, Laura Torbet and Jonathan Sternfield, July 1977.
  3. Honda Motorcycle Identification Guide 1959-2000, American Honda Motor Corp, 2000.
  4. The Complete Book of Mopeds, Consumer Guides, 1977, ISBN 0-446-89475-3
  5. Moped, The Wonder Vehicle, Jerry Murray, 1976, ISBN 0-671-29882-8
  6. Funky Mopeds, Richard Skelton, 2004, ISBN 13 978-1-84584-078-5
  7. 2009 Scooter Buyers Guide, Scoot Magazine, www.scootmagazine.com

5. Moped Army Wiki. www.mopedarmy.com. A large and ever-growing collection of moped-related articles, user edited. It provided much of the non-California moped information, missing from Myrons Mopeds own sources (from 20 California moped shop buyouts). Credit goes to a few dozen articles about moped models and brands.

6. Moped Army Photo Gallery. www.mopedarmy.com. A very nice collection of moped photos, original and modified, USA models and non-USA models. Most of the photos have accurate year, make, model information in their title. Hundreds of contributors deserve credit for that gallery. A few prized images were the key missing puzzle pieces, especially those models never sold in California, such as Mo-Trek Yard Man and FMB Yankee Peddler.

7. Spark Plug Charts. In order to sell the most product, spark plug manufacturers try to make their application charts as complete and accurate as possible. They often include makes or models that are discontinued or were only sold elsewhere, just to be on the safe side. They also often say the model name different ways, like “Sport 50” and “50 Sport”, to be sure the consumer will recognize it.

  1. 1979 Champion Motorcycle Application Catalog, 5MC 1979
  2. 2001 NGK Sportline Catalog, Motorcycles, ATV’s, Mopeds, Snowmobiles, Personal Watercraft
  3. 2012 online spark plug charts NGK, Champion, etc

8. Blue Books. These books list the average prices for used vehicles. They try to list all models, going back up to 30 years.

  1. Motorcycle Blue Book Jan-Jun 1990, Hap Jones (1978-1990)
  2. Kelley Blue Book Official Motorcycle Guide Sep-Dec 2006 (1979-2006)
  3. Kelley Blue Book Official Motorcycle Guide May-Aug 2011 (1977-2011)

Myrons Collection of Moped Publications

April 27, 2009

Point to see the title. Click to see the image. Click to enlarge to full size. Click the back arrow to return to menu.

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Encyclopedia

April 27, 2009

Welcome to Mopeds A-Z, also known as Myrons Moped Encyclopedia (MME). It is a collection of useful facts for every US-model moped from the 1970’s on, plus many others. MME was born out of the need to identify the year, make and model, and to know what parts it originally came with. Most pages are scanned images of printed page “info sheets” containing pictures, usually black and white line drawings, of the bike and it’s component parts. Other pages are color flyers that are just fun to look at. From 2000 to 2003, these info sheets were condensed out of a wall of manuals, flyers, dealer notebooks, and advertisements, from many moped shop buyouts. For years Myrons has handed out these info sheets to walk-in customers. Now they’re on the world wide web, as a courtesy to all customers, not just locals.

 


Aug 2015 Update

The Myrons Moped Encyclopedia (MME) has been completely distributed throughout the Moped Info and Parts section. The images now load much faster, but they are no longer all in one place.

In a way, this whole website has become the former encyclopedia.

Every picture is still available, in each of the many brand pages. Any pictures from the encyclopedia that did not fit in, were placed in the More Bikes choice in the More sub-menu.

Enjoy!


Carb Service and Jetting

October 26, 2008

Derbi Serviceman YellowWelcome to Myrons Carb Service and Jetting tutorial. As most of you know, the main function of a carburetor is to blend the gasoline with air to make an explosive mist of super fine droplets. In order to burn all of the oxygen and all of the gasoline, they must be in the right ratio, or else oxygen or gas will be left over, and wasted out the exhaust pipe. The carburetor also has a control valve, in most moped carburetors it is a slide type, that controls the power of the engine. When you want to accelerate, twisting the right handlebar grip towards you pulls a cable that pulls the throttle slide up. This “opens the throttle”, and lets the maximum amount of air get through. Moped and motorcycle carburetors also have a small reservoir of gasoline, called the float chamber or float bowl. An automatic valve attached to a float lets gasoline into the reservoir when the level gets too low, and shuts off the supply of gasoline when the level gets too high. The reservoir insures a fairly constant supply of gasoline, even when the demand changes as when the rider opens and closes the throttle. The float is operated by gravity, so when the bike is laid over on it’s side, and the fuel petcock is on, gas will leak out, either onto the ground, or into the air box and engine, or both. Always turn off the gas (fuel petcock at bottom of gas tank) before transporting the moped.


One or more jets
dip into the reservoir of gasoline. Suction from the engine draws gasoline up through the jets. The gasoline sprays out with fairly low pressure, like with a squeeze bottle sprayer with the trigger squeezed lightly. The pressure in the venturi is less than the pressure in the float chamber, which is at atmospheric pressure, thanks to one or more vents that allow air to escape from the float chamber when gasoline comes in, and to enter the float chamber when gasoline leaves. The biggest jet is the “main jet”. The size of the main jet is what determines the fuel and air mixture when the throttle is wide open. The other jets, needle jets, idle jet(s) or choke jet, matter only a little bit when the throttle is wide open, but matter a lot when the throttle is closed. On a Tomos A55, the idle jet is about 0.010″ (0.25mm) and the main is about 0.023″ (0.58mm), 2.5 times the diameter, and 6.4 times the area. So when the throttle is wide open, 86% (6.4/(6.4+1)) of the gasoline comes from the main jet and 14% (1.0/(6.4+1)) from the idle jet. Sometimes the “idle jet” is part of the carburetor bod
y and cannot be removed for cleaning or replacement. In those carbs, Peugeot Gurtner, Motobecane Gurtner, Delorto SHA, and others, there is a drilling procedure for cleaning, widening or relocating the idle passageway. In some there is no idle fuel passageway. Bing moped carbs use a channel in the bottom of the throttle slide to focus the air close to the fuel sprayer. Make the idle channel in the bottom of the throttle slide deeper, and the idle mixture will be richer. Make the idle channel shallower, and the idle mixture will be leaner.

Slide Carburetors Diagram

What controls mixture depends on what throttle opening is:

Closed Throttle (Idle) Mixture is usually not adjustable, except by drilling or notching the bottom of the throttle slide. 

Mid-Throttle Mixture is governed by the needle and needle jet, if it has one. Puch & Sachs Bings do, Delorto SHA doesn’t.

Full Throttle Mixture is goverened by the main jet size. The number is, somtimes, the size in mm. So a size 50 jet is 0.5 mm.

Try not to confuse throttle position with engine rpm. “Mid range” can mean the middle of the RPM range, or it can mean the middle of the throttle range.

The main jet is always removable, and unscrews from the lower part of the carburetor since it is “underwater”. In most motorcycle carburetors the main jet is internal, where the float bowl must be removed (that usually means carb removal). In some moped carburetors, it is external, like Peugeot Gurtner, Batavus Encarwi, Tomos Encarwi, and Motobecane Gurtner. Those lucky moped owners can drain their float bowls by simply unscrewing the jet. The jet can also be cleaned or swapped out in under a minute.

Above, a Tomos A55 idle jet (M4 thread) is physically bigger than a Puch Maxi main jet (M3.5 thread), but the hole size is much smaller. The photo shows how the #25 jet, 0.010″ (ten thousandths of an inch), will allow the thinner wire of the wire wheel to pass through the hole, but not the thicker wire of the wire brush. This is a useful cleaning technique.

With most stock moped engines, it’s easier to judge whether the jet is too big or too small, than it is with high performance two stroke engines, like dirt bikes. A stock moped with the correct jet will run smooth up to and a little beyond the engine rpm it is designed to max out at, and then, above that rpm, begin to “four stroke” or run rough. You want it to just barely not four stroke under most conditions.

If the jet is too big, the “four stroking” will begin too soon, before maximum speed is reached, and act as a brake.

If the jet is just right, the “four stroking” will begin a little above max speedgoing downhill or wide open stationary with the tire off the ground. If the top speed is 30mph, the four stroking should begin at 33-34mph. If the top speed is 35mph, the four stroking should begin at 38-39, and so on.

If the jet is too small, the “four stroking” will begin too late or not at all, even above top speed. Furthermore, if the jet is too small, power will fade out, without any roughness or stumbling, like a “waaaaaaah” sound, when the throttle is opened fully. This condition will cause excess heat, which can then damage the piston or worse. A little too hot is when the two stroke chrome exhaust header turns yellow. Way to hot, for a two stroke, is when the chrome turns blue, like a four stroke exhaust header often does.

Carburetor Replacement. When starting from “scratch” with a whole different carburetor or a different engine set up, the tuning books all say to start with a jet that’s too big and work down. Putting too big a carburetor will make it difficult or impossible to jet properly. When the carb is too big, you cannot make as much power at full throttle as you can at part throttle. There’s not enough suction from that little 50cc piston. Piston port kitted mopeds can benefit from big 20 to 24mm carbs. Reed valve 70cc kitted mopeds and non kitted 50cc sport motorcycles and scooters benefit from smaller carbs, 16 to 20mm. Smaller carbs start easier, idle better, they’re more fuel efficient, they take up less space and don’t stick out as much. The big carb might go a little faster but behave badly. 

Seat of the pants jetting is where you use a public street run the bike at maximum power for maybe 1/2 mile to 5 miles (eventually), listening to the sounds and feeling the forces made by the engine, to decide if the jet needs to be bigger or smaller. Each engine has it’s own personality. Some you easily hear the four stroking, and some you cannot hear it at all, but you can sort of feel it literally in the seat of your pants, like someone tapped the brakes. When the rough running mode begins the driving force suddenly drops, and you begin to loose speed. When the rough running ends and the smooth running begins, you suddenly feel a tiny surge of power, and your speed begins to increase. Seat of the pants jetting is also knowing the smell of “too hot” and how to judge how hot it gets by “reading” the spark plug. The hottest thing in the combustion chamber is the center part of the spark plug, the insulator, made out of white porcelain. On a normal spark plug there will be a light brown coating. On a hot running bike the same plug will be a lighter shade or almost white. On a cold running bike the same plug will be a darker shade of brown. Many other things also influence the spark plug insulator color, and can mask the effect of jetting, such as two-stroke oil mix type and ratio, old gas tank tar, compression leaks, spark plug heat range, and various engine modifications. For this reason a digital temp gauge is recommended. High tech jetting is done using full instrumentation like temperature sensors, exhaust oxygen sensors, in addition to a dynamometer. Graphs of engine rpm versus rear wheel driving force/torque/horsepower, are made for various jet sizes.  The jet that provides the most driving force yet still runs cool is the best choice. What is cool?  Below 300 degrees fahrenheit at the threads of the spark plug, after 30 minutes of hard running on a super hot day. What is hot? Above 350 degrees, also when fully hot. Having too much compression ratio (not enough combustion chamber volume) is a common source of excess heat in modified engines. So is too much ignition advance. Liquid cooled two stroke motorcycles run cooler, like under 250 degrees F. Cooler engine temperature makes more power because the crankcase can hold more weight of air since cooler is denser. That’s why all modern racing two stroke engines are liquid cooled, more power and longer life. Bigger cooling fins run cooler on air cooled, as do bigger radiators on water cooled. Moving fast through the air cools the engine. Going slow in the sand, or uphill with a heavy load on a hot day, overheats the engine. Because of all the many variables, jetting is often not easy. The bike must be otherwise in good working order and street legal, before the final jetting is done.

When just an exhaust is changed, from stock to aftermarket, usually the jet needs to be 1 or 2 sizes bigger. When the air box is removed the jet needs to be 2 or 3 sizes bigger. Some mopeds are missing their air box, and a replacement is not available. They must be jetted richer, or they’ll run hot and lose power when the throttle is wide open.

Sometimes the jetting can be adjusted by different air inlet tubes that plug into the air box. They are for noise reduction. The Delorto air boxes have two 1 inch by 3/8 inch plastic inlet tubes. When they are removed, and a bigger jet is installed, some more power is often gained, at the expense of more noise and less fuel economy. For example, a stock Garelli has a #50 jet with intake restrictors. Remove one of the two inlet tubes and it likes a #52 jet. remove the other and it likes a #54 or 56 jet. Speed might gain from 30 to 32 mph. Another example is the “snorkel tube” on the Puch Maxi stock air box. It should never be pushed up against the metal mesh air filter inside the air box, but rather be placed about a half inch away from the metal mesh, or else the air will be very blocked. Puch changed that design in the mid eighties and made it fool proof. Removing that accordian style inlet tube lets more air in, about equivalent to reducing the jet size by one or maybe a half step.  

When an engine that is jetted correctly for a low altitude is moved to a high altitude, like from sea level to 6,000 feet, the air is thinner, so the jet will need to be smaller by 1 or 2 sizes. At 8000 ft maybe two sizes smaller. The power output will be less.

When an engine has leaking crank seals it will need a bigger main jet and a much bigger idle jet, because some of the fresh charge will escape, while some fresh pure air will enter the crankcase, diluting the mixure. At lower rpms, due to momentum, the leak has more time to happen, so the engine will feel weak. At high rpms the weakness won’t be that bad. One trick is to cut a notch in the throttle slide to cause all the idle air to pass close to the idle hole where the gasoline sprays out. Notching the throttle slide enrichens the idle mixture to compensate for air leaks in the crankcase, and compression leaks in the piston and cylinder. The notch can be filled with epoxy to restore it, or the throttle slide can maybe be replaced, to undo the modification. If there’s an idle passageway, it can be made wider, by drilling, to make the idle mixture richer. A Delorto SHA idle hole is in the zinc body below the base of the vertical brass spray tube. It is stock about drill size 73. It’s common for an air-leaking older engine to benefit (idle better) by widening the Delorto SHA idle hole to drill size 71, and even all the way up to drill size 68. When the engine has low suction, the idle hole needs to be huge or else it won’t idle. The droplets then are bigger and the idle is rougher. It’s either that or it’s an expensive engine overhaul or new engine. 

 Carburetor Service

Wear eye protection. Read warnings. Carb spray is a strong solvent. It will damage paint and most plastics, as well as human flesh. Carb dip is also a mix of strong chemicals that will burn skin, cause blindness, or mess up your nice new paint job. Use caution. These procedures are not for everyone. Use your own judgement. Read and follow the warning labels. Use this at your own risk. It’s easy to do more harm than good.

One little flake of this white crust became lodged in the float vent hole, causing this almost new Puch carburetor to leak gas, and to starve for gas, for no apparent reason.

One tiny flake of this white crust became lodged in the float chamber vent hole, causing this almost new Puch carburetor to leak gas, and also to starve for gas sometimes, for no apparent reason.

A quick clean is to remove the float bowl, keeping it vertical so as to not spill the gasoline it contains. If the carburetor has no been cleaned recently it might be all coated with brown or yellow varnish or white zinc oxide corrosion. If it is then a full clean is needed. If the carb is already clean inside, then inspect the gasoline for several possible contaminants. One tiny spec or fiber is all it takes to block a jet hole. See Gas Tank Cleaning section. Remove the jet and hold it up so your eye is looking through the tiny hole, with like a sunny white wall in the background. A normal jet will be wet with clear liquid that tranmits light. Blow air near it lighty with your mouth. Now the liquid will be gone. It should look like a solid white circle. A blocked jet will be black, and a flake or a fiber will make the hole look non-circular. Be aware of reflections from the brass walls. Clean out the jet, if it is blocked, with a piece of thin wire, like from a wire brush or the smallest guitar string. Better yet use a jet drill of a slightly smaller size, as a tiny round file, to scrape off the varnish from the inside of the hole. See the Bing or Delorto Jet Sizes Charts for drill numbers and jet numbers conversions.

A full clean is to disassemble the carburetor, separate out the rubber parts, and then soak the carb body and non-rubber parts in carb dip, or spray them with carb spray and maybe scrape the float bowl with a pocket knife or with steel wool. Polish the float seat with a spinning Q-tip on a drill. Clean out and test spray the passageways. Be careful not to spray it at your face. Look up the specific layout of your carb to know where any “secret” holes are at. Spraying up from where the main jet goes should cause spray to come out all available verturi holes, sometimes one, two, or three, depending on the carburetor.

How to fix a broken “carb elbow”: The carb elbow is a curved metal tube that redirects the throttle cable at the top of the carburetor. Not all moped carburetors have a carb elbow. Instead they have linkage, like Peugeot 103 and Derbi DS50. Without a carb elbow, the throttle cable would go straight up, and interfere with your leg when you step through the frame to get on the bike. Without a carb elbow, the throttle cable would be different, since there’s length missing from the outer stationary part of the throttle cable. Some carb elbows have threads and screw into the top of the carburetor. Some don’t have threads and just rest in a hole in the carb top. The threaded kinds often get broken, usually by getting kicked. Fortunately, there’s an easy and free remedy.

Above left, unbroken and broken carb elbows removed. Above right, unbroken and broken carb elbows installed.

Usually it breaks at the bottom of the lock nut, leaving a few good threads where the lock nut was. Eliminate the lock nut and possibly file the broken edge if it sticks out. Then screw the broken carb elbow into the carb top, without any lock nut. Then turn the adjuster at the other end of the carb elbow, if it has one there, to take up the slack caused by the missing section of the carb elbow. Lube the throttle cable before reassembly.

How to fix a sticking throttle: Be aware this is a potentially dangerous condition. Don’t let anyone ride the bike until it’s fixed. Lube the throttle cable, and throttle sliding block, if it has one. Visually check the cable for kinks, or too many bends, or a crushed spot. Straighten out any kinks and remove excess cable ties. The cable should go as straight as possible, yet not hang out or dangle. If it hangs out it can get caught, and either kinked or crushed by the steering stop. Routing needs to be near the steering tube of the frame, so that when the steering is turned, it does not affect the throttle. Look at the original factory photos of mopeds in Myrons Moped Encyclopedia, to see how the throttle cable is supposed to go for your particular bike. It might not show it or say it all the way. If it still sticks try moving the throttle further out on the handlebar. Sometimes when a moped falls over, the throttle gets pushed inward, and rubs on the end of the handlebar. If that’s not it, then disconnect the throttle cable to isolate the throttle control from the throttle cable. Pull on the throttle cable with your fingertips or a small pliers. It should feel free and smooth, not rough or raspy, and snap back freely. Then twist the throttle control. It should also move completely free, like a wet ice cube on a smooth table. Replace the throttle cable with a modern kind with a slippery lining of nylon. Some throttles clamp onto the handlebar, and some have a cone shaped wedge that digs into the handlebar. After usually thousands of miles, a wedge type throttle might get loose because of erosion of the handlebar. Then tightening the wedge bolt can cause the throttle to stick because it becomes misaligned. The remedy is to replace the handlebar, or the free and easy option, reposition the throttle a little (1/2″) further out, on a fresh section of handlebar. Finally, sometimes when you change handlebars, the new bars might cause the throttle to stick, either because the throttle is misaligned by being positioned on the part of curved section, or the handlebar is too thick, like some powder coated ones are, and the thick paint needs to be sanded off where the throttle twist tube rubs against it. If you changed to low bars, without shortening the cables, it might be from the four extra 90 degree bends, where the cable has to turn up, u-turn over the top, and turn horizontal again at the bottom of the roller coaster. Sometimes throttle sticking is caused by too much grip glue. Sometimes it’s from a worn out sliding block. Allways lube cables and throttle first, and every so often, but not with WD40. Use oil, grease, or cable lube. Vegetable oil or Vasoline is better than WD40. WD40 is a penetrant and a Water Displacing agent. It’s great for the first time, because it gets in deep and fast, but doesn’t last long. Regular motor oil is better for follow up lubing.

 

to be continued … fuel leaks and remedies, troubleshooting with carb spray

 

Carburetor Replacement

Moped carburetors come in different sizes from 7mm to 14mm venturis, and from #39 to #68 main jets. A Puch carb might be a 14mm Bing with a 64 jet, while another Puch carb might be a 12mm Bing with a #60 jet. So there are different configurations. When you get a new carb, you generally have to re-configure it. That means learning about jetting. Final jet selection requires a safe, legal, operating bike that can run hard wide open. The engine temp is “sensed” or smelled or a digital temp gauge is used. Read more about that in Service.  The point is, it’s generally easier to repair the old carburetor, than to purchase and re-configure a new one. That said, many people put new Dellorto SHA14/12 or 15/15 carbs on older mopeds. They don’t leak but they’re not jetted right. Not all mopeds have the right intake pipe diameter. The carburetor must fit precisely. Getting the right adaptor sleeve is sometimes not possible. The various intake pipe clamp diameters are listed in the Dellorto SHA parts list. 

Myron Derbi Goodwrench wishes you a safe, happy and successful carb service.


Gas Tank Service

August 21, 2008

Welcome to Myrons Carburetor and Gas Tank Service Section. Carburetors and gas tanks get coated with sticky brown residue (tar, varnish, or gum) from gasoline and oil decomposing during years of storage. Steel gas tanks rust inside. Rust flakes damage gas valves (petcocks). Rust powder goes through fuel filters and clogs the tiny 0.010 to 0.025″ jet holes that the gasoline sprays through. Rust particles and fibers from cloth or hair can also make the float valve not shut off, causing a gas leak.

Carburetor Gas Leaks:  Most (but not all) gas leaks are from float valves not shutting off. A good working float and float valve assembly will float up and shut off the supply of gasoline before the level gets as high as the float bowl gasket. If the bike is standing up stationary, it would not matter whether it even had a bowl gasket. The float bowl gasket is for when the bike is leaned or the moved around, sloshing the gasoline inside.

How to Clean Gas Tanks

Warning: The following procedures are difficult and dangerous. You can easily harm your health, get blinded, or ruin the bike. Read all warning labels. Acetone especially is a very strong solvent. It’s the main ingredient of fingernail polish remover. It will instantly dissolve decal ink or spray paint. It will ruin rubber by making it swell up. It will etch (eat away the surface) paint and plastics quickly. Baked on factory paint takes a minute to be etched. Wear eye and skin protection and have cloth towels ready to catch any dribbles. Nothing else that’s safer than acetone or methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) will dissolve the tar. This is how Myrons Mopeds cleans gas tanks. These techniques may not be safe or appropriate for everyone. Use these prodedures at your own risk.

1. With the old gas still in it, shake up the gas tank. On a frame-tank moped, shake the entire bike by tipping it up on it’s nose (front tire), while holding the front brake, balancing the bike on it’s front wheel. This gets the solid material (rust flakes mostly) off the bottom and into the liquid about to be drained out. Do this just before removing the gas valve, so rust powder won’t have time to settle back to the bottom.

2. Remove the gas valve and drain the old gas out, with shaking. Look at what came out. Pure fresh gasoline is clear, colorless, and smells like gas. Fresh gas put into a tarry gas tank turns yellow after a few days. Yellow tint means tar is present. Cloudy means water is present. Solid brown, black, or orange particles or flakes are rust. Two-stroke oil is usually colored so it tints the gasoline, so you can tell how much oil is present by looking at it. A 50:1 mix of Champion tints the gas slightly green. Twice as much oil makes it twice as green.

3A. Cloudy only – water:  Air dry the tank. Compressed air and summer sun help. Optional: Acetone or MEK 8oz rinse removes water quickly, no waiting.

3B. Dark color only – oil: Replace gasoline with correct mix, usually 50:1. Adding oil reduces the odor of gasoline. Pure gas smells strongest.

3C. Particles only – rust: Water flush with full blast garden hose to float out any loose rust flakes. Put the hose in the empty tank first before turning it on. Tip the bike so the water overflows to the side and not all over the bike. When “all” of the tar and loose flakes are removed it’s ready for EvapoRust. It’s a water-based product that chemically disolves rust, while not promoting re-rusting. Between a pint and a quart of Evaporust plus a two quarts of water almost fills a one gallon tank. Soak it for a day while shaking it vigorously (turning it upside down) once in a while. Then drain it out. Hose it with water from a garden hose. Remove all water ASAP before new rust can form. Use air, sun, or acetone for that. See above.

3D. Yellow color – tar: Soak the tank with acetone. Acetone costs $16/gallon, so it’s wise to cut it to 1/2 acetone and 1/2 gasoline, called a “cocktail”. With the gas valve hole plugged add the cocktail. Let sit for a day or so, with occasional shaking. On a frame-tank moped, tip it up on it’s fron wheel every half hour for 12 hours, or equivalent. Drain it out into a pan, with shaking. Examine how yellow and how much rust. Repeat as necessary. This is much easier said than done.

4. Additional techniques: A “whacker” is a 20″ piece of cable or a wire coat hangar spinning on a drill. It is useful for knocking rust flakes off the walls. A “chain” is a way of reaching to the far bottom, shaking or agitating vigorously, and then pulling it back out, thus stirring up the stew. A “pea light” is a tiny light small enough to pass through the 8mm gas valve hole, with stiff wires and a battery, for viewing the inside of the gas tank. You can sometimes see blobs of dark brown tar at the bottom, occasionally as big as a hand. A “geyser” is on a really bad tarry tank after a cocktail has soaked, you put a garden hose at the bottom of the tank, then turn it on full blast while tipping the bike away from you. The tar froth is lighter than water, and comes bursting out the open gas lid hole in a orange-brown geyser. The geyser gets the tar out the large top hole faster than repeated drainings out the tiny bottom hole. The geyser will make the ground orange colored and is not very environmentally friendly. Use your own judgement.

5. Professional Help: “Hot Tank” is what some radiator shops have to clean parts in.  Hot tank will ruin decals and paint. “Sand Blasting” is what some radiator and automotive shops have. It also damages the paint and can miss hard to reach places. Either way you would have to remove the tank (or strip the frame bare, if the frame is the tank).

6. Holes in tank: Rust can go all the way through the steel wall and form a blister under the exterior paint. Sometimes the act of cleaning the tank causes leaks, which were there already but not active. When you see little mounds, bumps, especially near the bottom, it means that the gas is held in only by the paint. A leak could happen anytime. Just poke one with a pointed steel “poker” like a large safety pin or a sharpened nail. A light push will pierce through. Fortunately epoxy will seal the hole, once the area is clean and free of paint. It’s better to pierce the hole besides cleaning it, so the epoxy will form a plug. Mix a 50/50 two-part epoxy for bonding metal like JB Weld or PC-7, not the clear kind.

What “rinse” means: On a frame-tank moped, “rinse” means first making a plug for the gas valve hole out of a bolt and a piece of fuel line, plugging the gas valve hole, adding the rinsing agent, which is acetone, tipping the bike up on it’s nose, sloshing the liquid violently to get the upper part of the tank, then setting the bike down, immediately pulling the plug off and draining out the rinse, while shaking the bike. Repeat the process until nothing bad comes out.

5. Not-frame Gas Tanks: If you can remove your gas tank from the frame, cleaning is much easier. Shaking it and seeing inside is easy. Pointed screws can be added to a mix of acetone and gasoline, then shaken vigorously. Dry wall screws are better than rocks because rocks leave sand grit behind.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Left, a Motobecane tank, cut in half, is packed solid with tar. Right, a tank cleaning “geyser” of acetone, tar, and water.

 


Wiring Diagrams A to Z for thee!

August 20, 2008

Welcome. The wiring diagrams below come from 1) original owners manuals, 2) service manuals, 3) supplement sheets, 4) parts manuals, 5) actual mopeds, wirings, or parts, new or used, or most often 6) a combination of most of those. The manuals and sheets were in the wall of printed material from Myrons Mopeds buyouts of over 20 other moped shops. The raw originals were designed for black and white printing and copying, so they had the wire color names written in text. Myrons Mopeds has colorized them, and eliminated the color names, making them much easier to understand and follow. When needed, they have also been rearranged, scaled, and edited for clarity.     

A=====================

AMF Wiring: This wiring info is for the AMF Roadmaster models 110, 115, 120, 125 with McCullough rear friction drive engine, not the models 140, 141 with Minarelli V1 mid-engine and chain drive.

AMF CDI Ignition Upgrade

AMF 110,115,115KM

AMF 120, 125, 130

AMF 110 wiring

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


AMS has a Taigene Magneto

AMS motor, Sachs 505/1D
3-wire Taigene Magneto
90mm Bosch compatible
blue, blue/black, yellow
Honda points & puller tool

AMS Wiring Illustrated Sachs 505 Taigene 3-wire external ignition ground

AMS Wiring Illustrated
Sachs 505/1D engine
Taigene 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

 

 

AMS Wiring: AMS Sierra 50 (step thru), Tahoe G1 (top tank) and Tahoe G2 (top tank 2 speed manual) have the same wiring as General 5 Star ST, except with a Taigene magneto, 3-wire with external ignition ground blue/black for battery charging, no ignition switch in the fork lock, and possibly minor differences in some connectors and grounds. Always ground the blue/black if there is no spark.  

The Taigene FP43 90mm 3-wire magneto is Bosch-compatible. Too bad it was prone to loose spark, even with the blue/black wire grounded and the points functioning. Some needed upgraded to an actual Bosch magneto.  

AMS & Angel Battery Versions: Angel/Speed Birds use a 6N2-2A small 6 volt battery, AMS uses a 6N4B-2A. Modern replacement batteries have different wires than the original ones did. See section “B” Battery Wires. 

 


Angel Wiring Diagram

Angel Wiring 1) and 2)
Wtemco or Bosch 3-wire
external ignition ground

Angel: 1970’s Angel and Speed Bird mopeds, made in Taiwan by TYM, can have three different magnetos and two different wirings. These all have Ø90-three-M4-screw stator plates, and Ø90 (90mm ID) flywheel-rotors.

1) Bosch 0212-112-053, with brown (external ignition ground), yellow, black wires. The brown wire is the “tail” of the ignition source coil, and must always go to ground to have spark. It helps to power the headlight. So the headlight or headlight wires can cause the ignition to loose spark. 

2) Wtemco FHA ?????, with brown (external ignition ground), yellow, black wires. This whole magneto interchanges with Bosch 0212-112-053, but the internal coils are different. The flywheel, stator plate, points, condenser, the wire colors and wire plugs are all the same.

3) Wtemco FHA 11035, (internal ignition ground) with red, yellow, and black wires. This is the same as the other Wtemco magneto, except for the source coils (armatures). The headlight wiring is different from the others, in that the yellow does not get help from the ignition ground. This would make the headlight dimmer, but at the same time there is a separate output for battery charging, so the headlight gets brighter from that. The net effect is slightly dimmer.

1) Bosch 0212-112-053
external ignition ground

3) Wtemco FHA-11035, internal ignition ground

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Avanti Supersport (top tank) Wiring

Avanti Supersport (top tank) Wiring
Seel 4-wire CDI magneto

Avanti Autopower and Mont Wiring

Avanti Autopower and Avanti Mont Wiring
Garelli-clone engine, Seel 4-wire CDI magneto

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Avanti Kobra 3G Wiring Diagram

Avanti Kobra 3G
Garelli 2-speed clone
Seel 6-wire CDI magneto

Avanti Autopower motor Seel 4-wire CDI magneto

Avanti Autopower motor
Seel 4-wire 50 watt CDI
magneto, made in India

Avanti Wiring: Early 2000’s Avanti mopeds have a 90mm 50W Seel magneto, made in India, with modern CDI electronic ignition. Mont and Autopower have 12VAC one-wire for all lights, with an electronic voltage (shunt) regulator. Kobra has 12VAC on 3 separate lighting wires, with no external regulator.

Avanti controls are copies of late 1980’s Italian made Domino controls, used on Trac, Tomos, Derbi. The switches are copies of late 1980’s Italian made CEV switches, that integrate (fit into) the mounts for the controls (brakes, start, and throttle). The switch buttons use the same white international icons, rather than words. 

The original switches for domestic (India) models did not have a handlebar mounted engine stop switch, reachable by the right thumb while holding handlebar grip. The older wiring diagram for Kobra shows this. Only the key on the dash would turn off the motor. But on at least the Supersport model, and maybe also on some Autopowers and Monts, they made the right side headlight high-low beam switch into a engine stop switch, in order to meet the US DOT requirement. This has been the source of confusion. (Turn on the high beam or it won’t start?)

These three wirings took 24 hours to interpret, colorize, re-draw and clean up. The originals were very rough.

B=====================

Batavus VA 76-78

Batavus VA, HS50
Mobat, Bronco, Starflite
without turn signals
1976-78, M48 engine
Bosch 5-wire magneto
internal ignition ground

Batavus VA, HS50 deluxe w/turn sigs 1976-78, M48 eng

Batavus VA, HS50
Mobat, Bronco, Starflite
deluxe w/turn signals
1976-78, M48 engine
Bosch 5-wire magneto
internal ignition ground

Batavus Regency wiring diagram

Batavus Regency Wiring
& Regency VA, 1978-80
Batavus M56 engine
Bosch 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

Batavus Wiring (early): The 1976-78 models with Laura M48 engine have a 90mm Bosch 5-wire magneto on the right. Those have an internal ignition ground. None of the lights matter for the ignition to have spark. Head light (yellow), tail light (grey), and brake light (green) each have their own generator coils.

 

Batavus Wiring (late): The 1978-80 models with Laura M56 engine have a 80mm Bosch 3-wire magneto on the left side. Those have an external ignition ground. That blue/black wire powers the brake light. Consequently there is a special brake light resistor inside the light. While the early ULO 2-bulb tail light did not have a facility for holding a resistor, the later ULO 2-bulb tail light did. In fact there was not just a resistor, but a small circuit board with a nichrome-wire-coil resistor, and a diode. Otherwise the ignition looses spark if the blue/black becomes disconnected.  

Battery Wire Versions Taiwan 6V Mopeds

Battery Wire Versions
Taiwan 6V Mopeds

6 Volt Battery Chart 2008

6 Volt Battery Chart
by Yuasa (2008)

Battery Wires: For vintage Taiwan-made mopeds with 6 volt batteries, General, Lazer, Angel, Speed Bird, Indian, AMS, Clinton, Grycner, and others, getting the correct battery, 6N2-2A or 6N4B-2A is easier than getting the correct battery wires. In the 1980’s, new replacement batteries had vintage moped wires (double female bullet and male blade or bullet, male bullet). In the 1990’s and 2000’s the replacement battery wires changed, see illustration. In the 2010’s the wires changed again to “universal” (female bullet, female bullet plus an assortment of plug-in adapter wires, all bullet connectors). But the assortment does not contain enough to make vintage moped battery wires. To make those from the assortment, cutting, soldering, and shrink-wrapping is required.

Some vintage mopeds have had the bike’s wires adapted to accept a modern battery. Because of so many possible wires, since the 1990’s Myrons has always transferred the old battery wires onto the new battery, whenever the old wires were available. When unavailable, adapter wires were made, mostly from wire scraps. So many have been made, that almost no traces of the old style battery wires survive at Myrons Mopeds, out of hundreds of moped wire scraps.

 

Benelli Wiring: The Benelli G2 moped has a Dansi 3-wire 80mm magneto, with an external ignition ground on the green wire, ignition on the red wire, and lights on the black wire. The Benelli Dynamo mini motorcycle also has a Dansi magneto. More on Benelli soon …

Bianchi Wiring: Bianchi mopeds, US models with Morini MO1 engines, all have Dansi magneto type 101732. This magneto is essentially the same as the 101765 3-wire 2-coil, with external ignition ground on the green wire. Ground the green wire to get spark before suspecting anything else. 

C=====================

Cateye Turn Signals: Cateye turn signal kits, made in Japan, were an add-on accessory. They had a rechargeable 5.5 volt Ni-Cad battery pack, mounted with the front two lights on a chrome bar that clamped onto a moped handlebar. All of those original batteries died in the early 1990’s.

Cat Eye Turn Signals 1

Cat Eye BL700
Turn Signal Set p1

Cat Eye BL700 Turn Signal Set p2

Cat Eye BL700
Turn Signal Set p2

Cat Eye BL700 Turn Signal Set p3

Cat Eye BL700
Turn Signals p3

Cat Eye BL700 Turn Signals p4

Cat Eye BL700
Turn Signals p4

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cimatti City Bike Wiring

Cimatti City Bike Wiring
CEV 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

Cimatti City Bike Wiring for model with large console light switch

Cimatti City Bike with large console light switch
CEV 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

Concord Wiring
1980 Freedom , Invader
CEV 3-wire magneto external ignition ground

 

Cimatti Wiring: Cimatti, with the Minarelli V1 engine,  has functionally the same as the “Minarelli Wiring”, except for the high-low beam headlight, the console light/horn switch, and the secret toggle switch under the headlight that grounds the blue wire when in the forward position. 

 

Concord (Fantic) Wiring: Concord mopeds with Minarelli V1 engines have “Minarelli Wiring”. The ignition source ground powers the brake light and must be grounded to run. There is a secret resistor inside the tail light. When that burns out the engine dies when the brakes are applied.

Colombia Wiring Diagram
for all moped models
Sachs 505 or Solo engine
Bosch 5-wire magneto
internal ignition ground

Colombia Wiring: American-made Colombia mopeds can have two different frames, mono-tube and stamped sheet, and two different engines, Sachs 505 or Solo belt drive. But they all have the same Bosch 5-wire 90mm magneto, same wiring and electrical equipment, except for the headlight. Blue is ignition, green and green/black are brake light, yellow is head light, and grey is tail light. 

Invisible Forces: Notice that on the Colombia (and others) the tail light gray wire goes straight from the generator/magneto to the light, and not through the light switch. You would think the tail light would then stay on all the time. The small tail light generating coil is close to the larger head light generating coil. Somehow the magnetic field changes around the head light coil when the light is switched on, and that energizes the nearby tail light coil. So the tail light only works when the head light is working. This prevents tail light burn out caused by overload from a burned out headlight. On other 70’s mopeds, when their head light burns out, the tail light gets super bright, and dies.

Furthermore on mopeds with a Bosch 90mm magneto with grey tail light wire, such as Puch, Batavus, Colombia, the headlight bulb is preferably a 6 volt 21 watt (#1129). If it’s a 12 volt 21 watt (#1156), the headlight won’t be as bright, and since it passes less current, the tail light won’t be as bright either. That’s weird. Besides that the tail light bulb needs to be a 6 volt 5 watt #63, or else it will be dim, especially at idle.

D=====================

Daelim Wiring: Daelim Motor Corp (DMC) made Trac mopeds for the US in the 1980’s. See Trac Wiring.

Dansi magnetos

Dansi Magneto: These 3-wire magnetos are used on Benelli, Morini and Rizzato moped engines. Dansi magnetos are included here in wirings because of the number that is stamped onto the 80mm ID flywheel. That number determines the brake light wiring, brake light switches, and tail/brake light type, and more importantly, whether or not it has a “secret” wire that needs to be grounded. Dansi 101286 (anti-clockwise) and 101441 (clockwise) wires are: red = ignition, black = lights, green = brake light. Dansi 101765 (anti-clockwise) and 101732 (anti-clockwise?) wires are: red = ignition, black = lights, green = ignition ground (brake light). If you have an external ignition ground type 101765 or 101732, always ground the green wire first, when checking for spark. See Morini Wiring.  

 

Demm Smily wiring diagram

Demm Smily

Demm Wiring: Demm Smily, US models 1976-78 have Demm one-speed engines with CEV 6933 magnetos. The blue magneto wire is an ignition ground that also powers the brake light.

 

 

 

 

 

Derbi Wiring: Derbi mopeds, US models 1976-1989, except the DS50, have Motoplat 3-wire magnetos with points, and an external ignition ground on the blue wire powering the brake light. Inside the tail/brake light is a secret hidden ignition ground resistor. If that goes bad, or the wire leading to it, the ignition will loose spark when the brakes are applied. If any of the brake switch wires are also disconnected, then there will no spark all the time. The front ignition ground junction is on the right headlight mount, which is floating in rubber. The rear ignition ground is on the left rear fender bolt, underneath. Both of those places get corroded or loose. Ground the blue wire from the engine first, when checking for spark. Then all those rusty loose grounds don’t matter. That disables the brake light, for emergency or troubleshooting.

Derbi Variant 1976-86
SL, SLE, RD50, Laguna
Motoplat 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

Derbi Variant Sport

Derbi Variant Sport 86-89
6V AC voltage regulator
Motoplat 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

Derbi Variant Sport 1986-89

Derbi Variant Sport 86-89
6V AC voltage regulator
Motoplat 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

Derbi DS50 1987-89

Derbi DS50 1987-89
scooter has floor & pedals
12V AC voltage regulator
Motoplat CDI magneto
also with electric start

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

E=====================

Eagle Wiring Diagram

Eagle I, II, and III Wiring
Bosch 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

Eagle Wiring: Eagle mopeds were made by Hercules in about 1980-82. Eagle I and II are Sachs Suburbans (I has spoke wheels, II has mags), and Eagle III is a Sachs Prima G3 (top tank). They have a Sachs 505 one speed engine (1D for 30mph, 1A for 25mph, 1B for 20mph) with a Bosch 3-wire magneto, external ignition ground. Always ground the blue black magneto wire first if there is no spark. See Sachs Wiring for a way better version of this wiring diagram.

 

F=====================

Foxi Wiring: There are actually four Foxi moped models, each made in a different country, and each with a different wiring. 1) Sparta Foxi, made in Holland, see Sparta Wiring. 2) KTM Foxi, made in Germany, see KTM Wiring. 3) Testi Foxi, made in Italy, see Minarelli Wiring. 4) Jui Li Foxi, made in Taiwan, see General Wiring.  

Sparta (with Bosch magneto) 1976-78 models Bosch 4-wire magneto internal ignition ground

Sparta Foxi, F Dutchman 
’76-78 (made by Sparta)
Bosch 4-wire magneto
internal ignition ground

Sparta Flying Dutchman
’78-81 (made by Sparta)
Motoplat 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

Foxi/KTM (US model) CEV or Motoplat magneto external ignition ground

KTM Foxi (US model)
CEV or Motoplat magneto
external ignition ground

Flying Dutchman (Kynast) Wiring Diagram

Kynast Flying Dutchman
(made by Kynast)
Bosch 4-wire magneto
internal ignition ground

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flying Dutchman Wiring: There are two models, Kynast (Germany) and Sparta (Holland). See also those names for more info. 

Free Spirit Wiring: The Free Spirit line was sold by Sears department stores in 1978-81. They did not say Sears anywhere on the bike. In fact there are no brand markings or names anywhere, except the ID plate and the back of the seat, that says “Free Spirit”. See Sears Free Spirit Wiring.

G=====================

Garelli Wiring Diagrams: All have CEV 3-wire magnetos with external ignition ground powering the brake light. Garelli wiring is functionally the same as “Minarelli” Wiring on many Italian mopeds. Only some of the wire colors and connector or switch styles are different.

Garelli mopeds US models 1976-86

Garelli Wiring Simplified
US models 1976-86

Garelli Wiring Actual

Garelli Wiring Actual

Garelli Wiring Diagram
CEV 3-wire magneto
external ign. ground 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1970’s Garelli Eureka and Katia (UK models)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

General Wiring Diagrams: There has been confusion for years, because of 1) mistakes in the original wirings,  2) wiring in some models not agreeing with the original owners manual, 3) different brand names and alias names for the Jui Li, Her Chee, or Tsing Hua made mopeds, 4) lack of coverage of wiring issues in the service manuals (perhaps because different engines were optional, the engine manuals were separate and not integrated into the main manual), and 5) different versions were produced, sometimes without documentation. The wirings below come from actual wiring harness replacement parts, or actual mopeds or scraps of them. Showing the real wires alongside the diagram for them proves that these corrected wirings are accurate, even though some things might contradict some original wiring diagrams.  

General 5-Star Wiring (top tank, Minarelli eng)

General 5-Star Wiring
top tank Minarelli V1 eng
CEV 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground 

General Wiring Harness (top tank Minarelli eng)

General Wiring Harness
top tank Minarelli engine
CEV 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground 

General 5-Star Actual (top tank Minarelli eng)

General 5-Star Actual
(top tank Minarelli) 

General Wiring Versions top - male battery wire bottom-fem battery wire

General 5-Star Versions
   battery wire, pink circle
top – male bullet
bottom-female bullet

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

General Brake Light Switches: General 5 Star (top tank) has the brake light switches that screw into the levers. General 5 Star ST (step thru) has a front brake light switch in the cable, and a foot brake switch. Other kinds (Lazer?) have both front and rear brake light switches built into the cables. Some of the wirings have an unused female bullet connector on the white wire, to allow either kind of brake light switch.

General and Lazer (Jui Li) top tank mopeds (Minarelli V1 engine with CEV 6932 magneto with external ignition ground): General 5-Star and Lazer Sport 50 have 97% the same wiring, except for: 1) General has a steering lock key switch, that kills the spark and un-grounds the battery when the key is removed, 2) Lazer has an additional lite green and red ground wire in the harness, 3) Lazer has a 6N2-2A battery, while General has a 6N4B-2A battery, twice the amp-hours and wider. 

General 5 Star ST early

General 5 Star “early”
Sachs 505 foot brake
Bosch 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

General 5 Star ST late Wiring

General 5 Star “late”
 Sachs 505 foot brake
Bosch 3-wire magneto
ext ign gnd (always gnd)

General 5 Star ST Actual

General ST “late” Actual
Sachs 505/1A foot brake
Bosch 3-wire magneto

General-compatible Wiring new, unknown origin

General-compatible
new, unknown origin
for Bosch 3-wire magneto

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

General 5 Star ST step thru mopeds (Sachs 505 engine), made by Jui Li: General 5-Star ST wiring “early” version is functionally the same as the top tank models, because of the 3-wire Bosch magneto, configured to charge the battery from the ignition ground. With this version, if you removed the battery, or it went bad from sitting, the ignition would loose spark. The General 5-Star ST wiring “late” version instead charges the battery from the main lights wire and has the ignition ground always grounded, so it never looses spark even when the battery is removed. The trade-off for that increase in reliability is a slightly dimmer headlight, which is also a good thing because it helps prevent headlight burn out.

Grycner Wiring Diagram step thru with Sachs 505

Grycner Wiring Diagram
Sachs 505/1A engine
Bosch 5-wire magneto
internal ignition ground

AMS Wiring Illustrated Sachs 505/1D engine Taigene 3-wire magneto external ignition ground

AMS Wiring Illustrated
Sachs 505/1D engine
Taigene 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

General look alikes:

Grycner mopeds are identical to General step thru, but have Bosch 5-wire magnetos, with internal ignition ground, and slightly different wiring. 

Unbranded generic Jui Li step thru and top tank mopeds are identical to General. Their wiring and magneto is unknown.

AMS Sierra 50 step thru and Tahoe 50 top tank, are made by Her Chee, not Jui Li. They have wiring compatible with General ST, and a Bosch-compatible 3-wire 90mm Taigene magneto. AMS has the later Sachs 505/1D rather than 505/1A.

 

General Battery Versions: All Generals and Grycners use a 6N4B-2A flat 6 volt battery. Notice in the “General 5 Star Versions” photo above how the original top tank wiring came with different battery wire connectors, either male or female bullet. Besides that the modern replacement batteries have different wires than the original batteries did. See above section “B” about Battery Wires.

 

Sears (Gilera) 106 SS

Gilera 106 SS (1967) Sears Allstate (US model) has a CEV 6826 3-wire points magneto with external ignition ground on the green wire. If that wire is disconnected there will be no spark.

 

 

 

 

 

 

H=====================

 

Harley D. M50, M65

Harley Davidson Wiring: 1965-66 Harley Davidson M50, MS50 models have Dansi ASL222S magnetos. 1967-72 M65, ML65, ML65 Leggero models have a Dansi ASL236NS magnetos. They all have 3 magneto wires, black (ignition), green (ignition ground and brake light) and red (lights). Red and black are opposite from most other Dansi magnetos. Green must be grounded (connected to the frame) in order to have spark. It powers the brake light. If the brake light burns out, the engine will loose spark when the brakes are applied. Any other situation where green to ground is interrupted will cause loss of spark, like wires under the rear fender cut by the tire, loose or rusted fender mounts, loose or rusted bulb contacts, or the tail/brake light connectors loose or corroded. Always ground the green engine wire to eliminate those causes of no spark. That allows the engine to run, but without a brake light. 

Hercules Wiring: Hercules mopeds, made in Germany, are also known as Sachs. See Sachs.

Honda Wiring: Honda has hundreds of small motorcycle models worldwide, with different wirings. These are the USA models (unless stated otherwise) of mopeds and motor-driven cycles. More to follow…

Honda C100 (50cc)

Honda C100 Cub series
CA100, C102, C105,
C105T, C110, CA110T
50 & 55cc 1959-70

Honda PC50 (US model)

Honda PC50 (US model)

Honda PA50 Hobbit

Honda PA50 Hobbit

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Honda NC50 (US) Express Honda NA50 Express II

Honda NC50 (US) Express
Honda NA50 Express II

Honda NC50 (UK model)

Honda NC50 (UK model)

 

 

 

 

 

I=====================

Indian AMI-50 Wiring: Indian AMI-50 was made in Taiwan by Merida or Mira.

Indian AMI-50 Battery Versions: All Indians use a 6N2-2A small 6 volt battery. Modern replacement batteries have different wires than the original batteries did. See section “B” about Battery Wires.

Indian 1978 Wiring
WTEMCO 3-wire magneto
no key switch,
internal ignition ground

Indian Wiring 1979-84
WTEMCO 3-wire magneto
brake switches normally open, in parallel,
internal ignition ground

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Indian 2-coil Magneto

Indian 2-coil Magneto
is actually 3 coil, since
2 are combined into 1
blue=ign, yellow=lites
green=battery charging

Indian 4-coil Magneto

Indian 4-coil Magneto
early models 1978?
2 small battery charge coils are in series, to
make the same 3 outputs

Indian Magneto Testing

Indian Magneto Testing

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Indian ME100 Wiring:

1973 Indian ME100

 

 

 

Intramotor Gloria Wiring: Of the 3 or 4 Intramotor Gloria models, Scout, Blanco, Kid and Mini-Kid, only the Scout wiring is shown. The others may or may not be the same, depending on their Dansi magneto type. See “Morini Wiring”.

Notice how the Euro model version has no brake light, and one clamp-on switch for lights, horn, and engine stop. Simple!

Intramotor Gloria Scout (USA) Schema Elettrico

Intramotor Gloria
Schema Elettrico
Dansi 3-wire mag.
internal ign. gnd

Intramotor Gloria Scout (USA) Wiring Diagram

Intramotor Scout
(USA) with brake light
Dansi 3-wire magneto
internal ignition ground

Intramotor Gloria Scout (Euro model) no brake light

Intramotor Scout
(Euro) no brake lite
one switch for all
Bosch 2-wire+spark
internal ignition ground

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

J=====================

Jawa Babetta 1976-77 US model 207-011 4-wire star magneto with internal rotor Tranzimo CDI/coil

Jawa Babetta 1976-78
model 207.011 (0.9hp)
up to frame # 210999
4-wire internal rotor mag
big red Tranzimo unit

Jawa Babetta 1976-77 Diag. by California Moped

Jawa Babetta 1976-78
diag. by California Moped
model 207.011 (0.9hp)
4-wire int. rotor magneto
big red Tranzimo unit

Jawa Wiring: The original Jawa Babetta, with the famous red “Tranzimo” ignition unit (coil with electronic circuit) had 19″ rims was sold in Europe since 1972. Sometime after that the rims became 16″, and the model became also known as the “207”. Starting in 1976, American Jawa sold US versions of the model 207. They had brake lights and engine stop switches. The earliest US Jawa Babetta was the 1976-78 model 207-011, with big red Tranzimo ignition unit visible on the right side above the engine, with it’s high tech thyristor exposed on one end.

 

 

In 1978, starting with frame number 211000, the official US model name changed from Babetta to 50 DL, the model number changed from 207.011 to 207.111, and more importantly, the “big red Tranzimo” thyristor ignition unit and stator changed to the newer “black box with separate metal-can-coil” thyristor ignition unit and stator.

Jawa Service Bulletin Aug 1981

Jawa Aug 1981
Service Bulletin 1
On pre-’79 Jawa,
replace Tranzimo
and stator assy.

Jawa 50 DL 1978-79 US model 207-111 4-wire int rotor mag black box CDI unit metal can-type coil

Jawa 50 DL 1978
model 207.111 (0.9hp)
frame 211000 to 249999
4-wire int. rotor magneto
black box thyristor unit
metal can-type spark coil
no eng stop switch shown

Jawa Wiring Diagram no turn signals model

Jawa 50 DL 1978-79
no turn signals model
model 207.111 (0.9hp)
frame 211000 to 249999
4-wire int. rotor magneto
black box + metal can
revised w/ eng stop switch some revised wire colors

Jawa Wiring Diagram for turn signal model

Jawa 50 DLX 1978-79
deluxe with turn signals
model 207.111 (0.9hp)
frame 211000 to 249999
4-wire int. rotor magneto
black box + metal can

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jawa 50 DL 1979-80 model 207.311 C (1.5hp) model 207.311 DL (1.5hp) model 207.300 DLX (1.5hp) frame 250000 and up

Jawa 50 1979-80
207.311 C,DL,DLX
250000 – 349999
same wiring

Jawa 50 DL 1979-80 207.311 C, DL (1.5hp) 207.300 DLX (1.5hp) frame 250000-up

Jawa mopeds 1980-82
207.311 50C,DL 207.300 50 DLX, X20,X25,X30
frame no. 350000-up
4-wire int. rotor magneto
no head light switch

Jawa 207 Wiring Diagram no turn signals model

Jawa moped 207.305
no brake light (Euro)
no engine stop switch

In 1979, starting with frame number 250000, the USA models changed to the 207.300 series. The horsepower went up from 0.9 to 1.5. The carburetor changed from Jikov 9mm to Bing 12mm. But the wiring and electrical equipment stayed the same. 

In 1980-81, they had new model names, Jawa X30 (30mph 2hp?), X25 (25mph 1.5hp) and X20 (20 mph 1hp). The wiring did not change, but the tail light changed from Peterson to CEV.   

In August 1981, American Jawa sent out it’s first service bulletin, telling dealers how to cure the Tranzimo ignition problems once and for all, by replacing with the newer black box thyristor type.

In 1983, an all-new model was indroduced, the Jawa 210. It had a two-speed instead of one speed transmission. It had a new frame and other improvements. In the mid 1980’s the 210 was made in sport and deluxe versions. The wiring did not change on the 210 models for the rest of the 1980’s.

In the late 1980’s, Jawa made models 225 (25mph), 230 (30mph), 230 Breeze (30mph mag wheels). They had 2-speed transmissions, and some minor wiring differences.   

Jawa 210 Wiring no turn signals model

Jawa mopeds 1983-91
210 series (2-speed)
no brake light (Euro)
no turn signals

Jawa 210 Wiring for turn signal model

Jawa mopeds 1983-91
210 series (2-speed)
with brake light (USA)
with CEV turn signals

Jawa mopeds 1985-91 225/230 series (2-spd)

Jawa mopeds 1985-91
225/230 series (2-spd)
with brake light (USA)
no turn signals

Jawa Thyristor: Here is an excellent article on how to replace a burned out Jawa “black box”. There are just three components to buy and solder together, a thyristor, a capacitor, and a diode. Here is an even better article that shows in detail the ignition versions, upgrades, and individual thyristor component replacement options.  

 

In 1993, the country of Czechoslovakia split into Czech Republic and Slovakia. That was pretty much the end of the old Jawa. Then in the mid 1990’s, Jawa mopeds were re-made in Hungary at the Korado factory. The step thru models were called Babetta, while USA top tank models were called Jawa (1995 Sport, Supersport, Ultrasport). The re-make Jawa/Babetta wiring changed, to be like the 1995 Puch Korado, made in Hungary by Manet, with one wire for all lights and a 12VAC shunt type voltage regulator. See Manet Wiring for that. The last year for the beloved Babetta was 1997. Click here for the full Jawa history.

JC Penney Wiring: JC Penney department stores sold the Pinto and Swinger moped models, made by Kromag. They have Puch engines and 1977-78 Puch (6-wire) wiring, where the blue black horn wire must be grounded to run. See Kromag Wiring.

K=====================

Kinetic TFR moped and Magnum, TFR-USA 1980's Vespa remake 4-wire CDI magneto

Kinetic (moped) Wiring 
India-re-make of a Vespa
4-wire CDI magneto

Kinetic Wiring: Kinetic TFR, Luna TFR, Magnum, and TFR-USA are modern 1990’s-2000’s remakes of a 1970’s-80’s Italian made Vespa(Piaggio) pedal-start mopeds. They have modern electrical wiring, with all lights on one wire and a shunt type voltage regulator. So there is no battery, and no DC anywhere, only 12 volt alternating current. They have modern CDI ignition, no points. The Kinetic Pride is a scooter (with a floor and no pedals) with a battery, electric start, and a different wiring, not shown here.

Korado Wiring: The Korado is a Puch re-make, made by Manet. See Manet Wiring.

 

 

Kreidler MP9 (early) up to frame 2409540 Bosch 3-wire magneto external ignition ground

Kreidler Flory MP9(early)
up to frame 2409540
Bosch 3-wire 2-coil mag
external ignition ground

Kreidler MP9 (late) from frame 2409541 Bosch 3-wire magneto internal ignition ground

Kreidler Flory MP9 (late)
from about late 1977-on
frame 2409541 and up
Bosch 3-wire 3-coil mag
internal ignition ground

Kreidler MP19 Wiring turn signals & mag whls Bosch 4-wire 3-coil mag internal ignition ground

Kreidler Flory MP19
turn signals & mag whls
Bosch 4-wire 3-coil mag
internal ignition ground

Kreidler Wiring: These wirings appeared only in the Kreidler owners manuals, in tiny unreadable print. Now they are deciphered and made easy to follow. Even the mysterious diodes are explained. These 3 took 14 hours to scan in and fix up. Because the US requires a brake light, and requires that the head light not get dim when the brake light is on, that is why they used diodes, for bright lights with less bulb burnout.

 

 

Kromag/Sears Wiring Sears Free Spirit, uses Puch 1977-78 (6-wire) 6-wire Bosch magneto 1-speed 0212 124 043

Kromag/Sears Wiring
Sears Free Spirit (1-spd)
Puch 1977-78 (6-wire)
external ignition ground

Green/black wire explained: Many Bosch magnetos have a green and black wire that simply goes to ground. Did you ever wonder why they did not just ground it internally? The Kreidler Flory MP19 is one moped that uses the grün/schwarz wire the way Bosch intended it. The green and green/black are inputs to a full wave rectifier, which is the four diodes inside the turn signal power pack. It is for battery charging. If the green black were grounded, it would only be a half wave rectifier, and the battery charging would only be half as much.

Kromag Wiring: Kromag makes the Sears Free Spirit moped line. All Free Spirits have the same wiring and electrical equipment as 1977-78 Puch Maxi (6-wire). The blue/black horn wires need to be connected, or grounded in order to have spark. The external ignition ground is through the clamp of the light/horn switch. Wild!

 

Kynast Flying Dutchman Wiring Diagram

Kynast Flying Dutchman
Sachs 504/1A or 508/AD 
4-wire Bosch magneto
internal ignition ground

KTM (US model Foxi) CEV or Motoplat magneto external ignition ground

KTM (US model Foxi)
CEV or Motoplat magneto
external ignition ground

KTM (Foxi) Wiring: This wiring is functionally identical to Cimatti, with a hi-lo headlight, console type light and horn switch, external ignition ground running the brake light, and a secret toggle switch under the headlight. When that switch is in the forward position, the blue (external ignition ground) wire is grounded, and the engine will run, even with a burned out or disconnected brake light. When the switch is in the rear position, the brake light operates normally, where the engine dies when the bulb is removed and either brake is squeezed.  KTM Foxi mopeds have CEV 3-wire magnetos. Some of the later ones with 504/1D engines have Motoplat 3-wire magnetos.

L=====================

Lazer Sport 50 Wiring

Lazer Wiring Actual

Lazer Wiring Actual

Lazer Wiring Battery

Lazer Wiring – battery

Lazer Sport 50 and General 5-Star have the same wiring, except for: 1) General has a steering lock key switch, that kills the spark and ungrounds the battery when the key is removed, 2) Lazer has an extra lt green/red ground wire, 3) Lazer battery is the smaller 6N2-2A, not 6N4B-2A. 

These wirings are for the 1977 Lazer Sport 50, orange, top tank moped, made in Taiwan by Jui Li. They are not for the 2000’s Lazer 4-stroke mopeds, made in China by Bashan. That is a completely different “Lazer”. 

Lazer Battery Versions: All Lazers use a 6N2-2A small 6 volt battery. Modern replacement batteries have different wires than the original batteries did. See section “B” about Battery Wires.

M=====================

Manet-Puch Korado 1995 made by Manet

Manet-Puch Korado
remake of ’86 Puch 1-sp
all lights 1 wire 12VAC
2-wire CDI magneto

Manet Wiring: This is a mid to late 1990’s Puch remake, made in Hungary by Manet. It is better known as the “Puch Korado”. Some things, like the engine, are the same as Puch, but the electrical and wiring is all different. Like all the other all-AC modern (1990’s and later) mopeds, the Korado has all the lights on one wire, with a 12VAC shunt-type voltage regulator. Like everything modern, it has a completely separate and independent CDI (capacitor discharge ignition) system that in no way depends on the lights. The CDI has no pulser coil.

Manet/Korado also made the mid-to-late-1990’s Jawa remake. The wiring for that not currently available, but is expected to be close to this wiring and electrical equipment. 

 

 

Minarelli Wiring Diagram for Testi/Gitane & others

Minarelli Wiring Diagram
for Testi/Gitane & others

Minarelli Wiring: Most Italian mopeds, US models, that have Minarelli engines have this same wiring, functionally. Many have the same exact colors as well. There are at least 21 names: Aspes, Baretta, Bianchi, Cimatti, Concord, Fantic, Gadabout, Gitane, Intramotor, Lem, Maico, Motomarina, Motron, Pryer, Red Foxi, Safari, Silver Foxi, Snark, Testi, Yankee Peddler, and others. They all have the Minarelli V1 or V1L engine with CEV 6932 3-wire magneto with external ignition ground (blue wire) powering the brake light. Ground the blue wire first if there is no spark.

 

 

 

Morini Wiring Diagram

Morini Wiring Diagram

Morini Wiring: Franco Morini moped engines can have two possible Dansi magnetos. Which one it has is determined by a number stamped on the flywheel. Some Italian mopeds, US models, that have Morini engines have this same exact wiring. This “universal” wiring can be configured for either NC-in-series (for Dansi 101765 or 101732), or NO-in-parallel (for Dansi 101286 magneto) brake light switches. Most others wirings are functionally the same as one of these two versions. There are dozens of brand names: Arciero, Benvenuti, Bianchi, Colt, Cosmo, F. Morini (no relation to Franco Morini), Intramotor, Italjet, Italvelo, Italtelai, Lem, Malaguti, Motomarina, Motobecane, Negrini, Pacer, Snark, Velomec, West Wind, and others. Morini is only the engine name.  

Dansi magneto 101286 3-wire 2-coil

has normally open brake light switches in parallel and an internal ignition ground.

Dansi magnetos 101765 and 101732 3-wire 3-coil

have normally closed brake light switches in series and an external ignition ground that powers the brake light.

 

Motobecane 6V Models 1974-1977 2-coil mag

Motobecane 6V
1974-77 2-coil mag
3-wire Novi mag
external ign. gnd

Motobecane 12V 1978-80 3 coil mag

Motobecane 12V
1978-80 3 coil mag
3-wire Novi mag
internal ign. gnd

Motobecane Wiring: Two versions for USA model mopeds.

Early “6 volt” version: Before Jan 1978, Motobecane mopeds had a 2-coil Novi magneto, with an external ignition ground. The ignition assisted in keeping the lights bright, in a complex way.

Later “12 volt” version: After Jan 1978, Motobecane mopeds had a 3-coil Novi magneto, with an internal ignition ground. However, the ignition coil still needs at least one of the two neighboring lighting coils to be active. Amazingly, the lights not working can make it loose spark, even though they are not connected. It has to be from the magnetic field. The wiring is also complex.

Motobecane 6V 1968 Euro model

 Euro version: They were much simpler. No brake light and less watts.

 

Moto Guzzi Robin (Chiù)
sheet frame, Benelli engine
Dansi 101441 magneto
internal ignition ground

Moto Guzzi Wiring: There are two kinds of Moto Guzzi Robin. They have the same name but different frames and wiring. Moto Guzzi made a stamped sheet-metal frame model, called Chiù in Europe, and Robin in the US. They also sold a Robin with a mono-tube frame made by Seimm. Both kinds had the 1970’s Motobi (Benelli) moped engine, with a Dansi 3-wire magneto.

Moto Guzzi Robin (mono-tube) The mono-tube Moto Guzzi Robin is identical to a Benelli G2. The Dansi 3-wire magneto had an external ignition ground on the green wire. It must always be connected to ground to have spark.

Moto Guzzi Robin (sheet frame) The sheet frame Moto Guzzi Robin is the US version of Chiù. The Dansi 101441 3-wire magneto had an internal ignition ground. It would never loose spark because of loose brake light wires, but the lights are not as bright.

 

 

Motobecane Sebring Morini MO1 or MO2 Dansi 101286 magneto external ignition ground

Motobecane Sebring
Morini MO1 or MO2 eng.
Dansi 101286 magneto
external ignition ground

Motron Wiring Diagram Minarelli V1 engine CEV 3-wire magneto external ignition ground

Motron Wiring Diagram
Minarelli V1 engine
CEV 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

Motron Sliding Switches

Motron Sliding Switches
left,CEV 8188 lites & horn
rt, CEV 8189 engine stop

Motron Wiring: Functionally the same as the “Minarelli Wiring”. 1978-79 had the CEV clamp-on plastic slide switches. 1980-81 had the CEV “diamond” switches integrated (fitted into) the Domino controls. 

 

 

 

 

Murray Wiring (same as Puch)

Murray Wiring Diagram
Bosch 6-wire magneto
external ignition ground

Murray Wiring: Same as Puch Series B. Bosch 6-wire with external ignition ground powering the horn. Ignition, brake light, tail light, and head light all have separate source coils (armatures). Ground the blue/black wire first if there is no spark.

 

 

 

N=====================

NVT Easy Rider Wiring Morini MO1 or MO2 eng Dansi 101286 magneto internal ignition ground

NVT Easy Rider ER1,ER2
Morini MO1 or MO2 eng
Dansi 101286 magneto
internal ignition ground

Negrini Wiring: The wiring diagram is not in the owners manual by MMI. See Morini Wiring. What number is on the magneto flywheel determines one of two possible wiring schemes. See Morini Wiring and Dansi Magnetos.

 

NVT Wiring: NVT (Norton Villiers Triumph) mopeds and motorcycles are made in England. The Easy Rider ER1 and ER2 mopeds all use the Dansi 101286 magneto, according to the owners manual wiring. On that magneto/generator, the lighting coil is split into two concentric coils, one for brake light and horn (black wire), and one for head light, tail light, and speedo light (green wire). The other coil is ignition (red wire), with an internal ground, so it is isolated from the lights. 

 

O=====================

Odyssey Wiring: Odyssey mopeds and engines are made in Germany by Solo. They have German style wiring with separate generator wires for each light. Euro models have a Bosch 0212 005 011 80mm clockwise magneto. USA models have a Bosch 0212 124 039 90mm clockwise magneto. More to follow…

P=====================

 

Pacer Wiring Diagram for Dansi magneto 101286 internal ignition ground

Pacer Wiring Diagram
for Dansi mag 101286
internal ignition ground

Pacer Wiring Diagram for Dansi magneto 101765 external ignition ground

Pacer Wiring Diagram
for Dansi mag 101765
external ignition ground

Pacer Wiring: Pacer is an Italian moped with either a Morini MO1, MO2, or M1 engine. Early models with frame number 15499 and below, all have the Dansi 101286 3-wire 3-coil magneto, with the ignition source coil grounded internally. Later models with frame number 15500 and above can have either 101286 or the Dansi 101765 3-wire 2-coil magneto. The only way to tell is by the number stamped on the flywheel. The brake light switches, wiring harness, and tail light are different for each magneto type. See also Morini Wiring.

 

 

Peugeot Wiring: Peugeot was one of 3 or 4 moped makers that made their own magneto. The French maker chose to be different and make their flywheel have puller threads M20x1.0, instead of the Germans M22x1.5 or Italians M19x1.0. Pre-1980 Peugeots have an external ignition ground running the brake light. Remove the tail light assembly or unplug the wires and it won’t run. Ground the black wire under the engine by attaching it somewhere to ground (such as the tail of the decomp cable wire), to get spark, when there is no spark. 1980 and later Peugeots do not have that problem, because they have an internal ignition ground. Their ignition does not rely on any of the lights.

Peugeot 103 (USA) 1976-79

Peugeot 103 1976-79
103 LS, 103 LVS, 103 SP
3-wire + spark magneto
internal transformer with
external ignition ground

Peugeot Ignition Upgrade: Internal to ext. transformer

Peug Ign Upgrade:
int to ext trans. coil

Peugeot Ignition Upgrade: Way back in the mid 1980’s, Peugeot 103 mopeds, 1976-1979 began to burn up condensers and points rapidly. Some of the  coils would send voltage spikes. In the late 1980’s the supply of coils and stators had pretty much been used up. By 1990, even brand new Peugeot coils would not work good for long. They were going bad just sitting on the shelf. Out of desperation Shaun found a substitute inner source coil, from a Puch. It fits the Peugeot coil bolts, if they are bent in a little. A Puch outer coil (transformer) was added onto the right frame near the carburetor. ’78-79 and some ’77 103’s already have the external coil mount. 1977-earlier has to be welded on.  There is a whole chapter about that here.

 

These 1980 and later Peugeot models already have the upgraded ignition, with external transformer coil.

Peugeot 102,103 1980-on new “star” magneto

Peugeot 102,103 1980-on
new “star” magneto
internal ignition ground

Peugeot 102,103 80-83 w/star mag, int ign gnd

Peugeot 103 1980-83
103 LS,LVS,SP,SPB, TSM
3-wire “star” magneto
internal ignition ground

Peugeot 102 1980-83 w/star mag, int ign gnd w/tail light transformer

Peugeot 102 1980-83
w/tail light transformer
3-wire “star” magneto
internal ignition ground

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Piaggio Wiring: Vespa is one brand of the parent company Piaggio. For 1970’s Vespa mopeds, there many wiring diagrams with photos and service info, located in a separate Service section, under Vespa Electrical https://www.myronsmopeds.com/category/vespa-electrical/

 

Puch Wiring: All 1978-1986 Puch mopeds, USA models, have a 6-wire Bosch magneto, with points, and with an external ignition ground that powers the horn. Unplugging one of the horn wires, then pressing the horn button stops the engine. In addition to that, loosen the horn/light switch clamp from the handlebar, and a brand new Puch will not run, because of disconnected horn wires. Really! Puch is the only maker that chose to meet the USA standards that way. Almost everyone else chose to power the brake light with the ignition ground. Maybe the others figured if you’re already using the brakes and your engine dies, it’s not as bad. 

Puch 1974-75 (4-wire) Maxi, Maxi-S, Rigid (GN) Maxi 8353263-8421028 Rigid 6539521-6547172 4-wire Bosch magneto 1-speed: 0212 124 038

Puch 1974-75 (4-wire)
Maxi, Maxi-S, Rigid (GN)
Maxi 8353263-8421028
Rigid 6539521-6547172
4-wire Bosch magneto
1-speed 0212 124 038
internal ignition ground

Puch 1976-77 (5-wire) Maxi-N, Maxi-S, Nostalgic Maxi 8421029-8709891 Rigid 6547173-6830115 5-wire Bosch magneto 1-speed: 0212 124 042

Puch 1976-77 (5-wire)
Maxi-N, Maxi-S, Nostalgic
Maxi 8421029-8709891
Rigid 6547173-6830115
5-wire Bosch magneto
1-speed 0212 124 042
internal ignition ground

Puch 1976-77 (5-wire) actual wiring laid out

Puch 1976-77 (5-wire)
Maxi-N, Maxi-S, Nostalgic
actual wiring laid out
ULO 2-bulb tail light
Merit chrome switches

The original 6-wire plans, for US models, where the ignition powers the horn.

Puch Schaltplan Jun-77
The original 6-wire plans,
for US models, where the
ignition powers the horn.
external ignition ground

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Puch 1977-78 (6-wire) Maxi, Maxi Luxe, Rigid Maxi 8709892-??????? Rigid 6830116-??????? 6-wire Bosch magneto 1-speed 0212 124 043

Puch 1977-78 (6-wire)
Maxi, Maxi Luxe, Rigid
Maxi 8709892-???????
Rigid 6830116-???????
6-wire Bosch magneto
1-speed 0212 124 043
external ignition ground

Puch Wiring Diagram 1978-79 6-wire magneto chrome switches

Puch 1978-79 (6-wire)
Maxi, Maxi II, Luxe, Rigid
6-wire Bosch magneto
1-speed 0212 124 043
2-speed 0212 124 044
external ignition ground

Puch 1978-79 (6-wire) Sport, Newport, Magnum Sport MkII, Magnum MkII 1-speed 0212 124 043 2-speed 0212 124 044

Puch 1978-79 (6-wire)
Sport, Newport, Magnum
Sport MkII, Magnum MkII
1-speed 0212 124 043
2-speed 0212 124 044
external ignition ground

Puch 1978-79 (6-wire) Sport, Newport, Magnum Sport MkII, Magnum MkII w/square black switches CEV 2-bulb tail light

Puch 1978-79 (6-wire)
Sport, Newport, Magnum
Sport MkII, Magnum MkII
w/square black switches
CEV 2-bulb tail light
external ignition ground

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Puch 1980-82 (6-wire) Maxi, Maxi II, Maxi Luxe 1-speed 0215 254 658 2-speed 0215 254 674

Puch 1980-82 (6-wire)
Maxi, Maxi II, Maxi Luxe
1-speed 0215 254 658
2-speed 0215 254 674
external ignition ground

Puch 1980-82 (6-wire) Sport MkII, Newport II, Magnum II, MkII 2-speed 0215 254 674

Puch 1980-82 (6-wire)
Sport MkII, Newport II,
Magnum II, MkII
2-speed 0215 254 674
external ignition ground

Puch 1980-82 (6-wire) Sport MkII, Newport II Magnum II, MkII w/square black switches CEV 2-bulb tail light

Puch 1980-82 (6-wire)
Sport MkII, Newport II
Magnum II, MkII
w/square black switches
external ignition ground

Puch 1980-82 (6-wire) Magnum MkII, Limited Ed with ignition key switch 2-speed 0212 124 044

Puch 1980-82 (6-wire)
Magnum MkII, Limited Ed
with ignition key switch
2-speed 0215 254 674
external ignition ground

 

 

 

Puch 1983-86 (6-wire) Maxi, Dart with 6VAC voltage regulator 1-speed 0215 254 658

Puch 1983-84 (6-wire)
Maxi, Dart with
6VAC voltage regulator
1-speed 0215 254 658
external ignition ground

Puch Wiring Diagram 1983-86

Puch 1983-84 (6-wire)
Maxi, Dart with
6VAC voltage regulator
original b & w diagram
external ignition ground

Puch 1983-84 (6-wire) Dart, Maxi Merit chrome switches

Puch 1983-84 (6-wire)
Dart (shown), Maxi
Merit chrome switches
external ignition ground

Puch 1984-86 (6-wire) Maxi Sport LS, LS II Cobra, Cobra II w/square black switches

Puch 1984-86 (6-wire)
Maxi Sport LS, MS LS II
Cobra, Cobra II, ’85 Maxi
w/square black switches
external ignition ground

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Puch Korado Wiring 1995 made by Manet

Puch Korado Wiring
1995 made by Manet
CDI 2-wire magneto
(internal ignition ground)

Puch Re-makes: After the last Austrian made Puch in 1986, three companies have reproduced the 1980’s Puch mopeds. Piaggio (Italy, early 90’s), Hero (India, late 90’s), and Manet (Hungary, late 90’s). While the most of engine is the same, the electrical equipment and wiring is different, more modern. All 1990’s and later mopeds have CDI ignitions with an internal ignition ground. Thanks to the advent of electronic solid state voltage regulation in the mid 1980’s, allowing stronger magneto/generators (50 or 80 watts instead of 30) without bulb burnout, modern mopeds don’t need to borrow “juice” from the ignition, so their ignition is separate from the lights or horn, and thus way more reliable.

 

Q=====================

R=====================

Rizzato Califfo Wiring CEV 3-wire magneto external ignition ground

Rizzato Califfo Wiring
CEV 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

Rizzato Wiring: Italian made Rizzato has it’s own engine, with either a CEV 6952 or a Dansi 3-wire magneto. Rizzato Califfo uses the same wiring and wire colors as Italian-made mopeds with Minarelli engines. Red is ignition, black is lights, and blue (for CEV) or green (for Dansi) is an external ignition ground, powering the brake light. Unpluging the brake light wires on a Rizzato will make it stop running. When it has no spark, always ground the blue wire first. Outside wiring disconnected is often the cause.

 

 

 

 

S=====================

Sachs/Hercules Wiring: Sachs mopeds, made by Nürnberger Hercules Werke GMBH, should not be confused with mopeds that have Sachs engines, like General, Grycner, Clinton, Colombia, AMS, Foxi, Sparta, Flying Hercules smallDutchman, Eagle, and many others. Most of the “true” Sachs mopeds can be identified by the Hercules “H” logo stamped into the headlight mounts. Sachs early models, roughly 1976-1978, had an internal ignition ground. Those never lost spark because of bad brake light wires. Sachs later models, roughly 1978-1981, had an external ground. Those had a secret ignition ground resistor hidden inside the CEV 2-bulb tail light. If that went bad, the ignition would not have spark when either brake was applied (or all the time, if the brake light switch wires were loose). In that case attach the ignition ground wire, that comes out of the engine, to ground. It’s blue/black for Bosch magnetos, and black for Motoplat magnetos. That will restore the spark, but disable the brake light, for emergency use or troubleshooting.

Sachs/Hercules Wiring for Hercules-made mopeds with Sachs 505 engines (pedals inside engine):

Sachs Balboa M-4 (USA) Bosch 5-wire magneto internal ignition ground

Sachs Balboa M-4 (USA)
Sachs 505/1A or 1B eng
Bosch 90mm 5-wire mag
internal ignition ground
ULO 2-bulb tail light

Sachs 1980 Suburban wires inside head light

Sachs 1980 Suburban
wires inside head light.
Behold, the “mystery”
diode that powers the
horn from the ignition.

Sachs Suburban,Prima,G3 Bosch 3-wire magneto external ignition ground

Sachs Suburban,Prima,G3
Sachs 505/1D, 1A, 1B
Bosch 3-wire 90mm mag
external ignition ground

Sachs Suburban 1978-on shows magneto wires plug Sachs 505/1D engine Bosch 90mm 3-wire mag external ignition ground

Sachs Suburban 1978-on
shows magneto wires plug
505/1D with Bosch 3-wire
external ignition ground
CEV 2-bulb tail lite w/res

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sachs/Hercules Wiring for Hercules-made mopeds with Sachs 504 engines (pedals outside engine):

Sachs/Hercules P1 (USA) Westlake, ? Bosch 4-wire magneto

Sachs Westlake P-1 (USA)
made by Nürnberger
Hercules Werke GMBH
Sachs 504/1A or 1B eng
Bosch 4-wire 80mm mag
internal ignition ground

Sachs 1978 Westlake P-1 Sachs 504/1A engine Bosch 4-wire magneto internal ignition ground identified by black coil

Sachs 1978 Westlake P-1
504/1A w/Bosch 4-wire 
internal ignition ground
identified by black coil
ULO 2-bulb tail lite

Sachs Westlake,Sundancer 1978-later Sachs 504/1D,1A,1B Motoplat 3-wire magneto external ignition ground

Sachs/Hercules 1978-on
Westlake,Sundancer (P-1)
Sachs 504/1D,1A,1B
Motoplat 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

Sachs 1978 Westlake P-1 504/1D Motoplat 3-wire external ignition ground identified by red ign coil

Sachs 1978 Westlake P-1
504/1D Motoplat 3-wire
external ignition ground
identified by red ign coil
CEV 2-bulb tail lite w/res

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ignition Waveform

Ignition Waveforms: Interrupted AC 
Curve 2 shows how the points interrupt the source,
and cause the unused negative triangular sections.
On a Hercules, they get less when the horn is used.
On all other bikes those minus voltages are unused.

“Mystery” Diode: All Hercules-made mopeds borrow electric power from the ignition wire (not the ignition ground) to power the horn. Normally this would kill the spark. But the wise Germans found some unused power. It’s a little hard to understand, without lots of pictures and hand waving. The flywheel has four bar magnets aligned N to N and S to S, so there are two Norths and two Souths per revolution. The current generated reverses direction every 90 degrees. The points open (the spark moment) near one of the magnetic maximums, say North. About 45 degrees later, the field is zero, and heading South. The points stay open for about 20 or 40 more degrees. That’s when there’s a short period of available reverse current/power. (When the points finally close, a secondary weaker spark occurs, with reverse polarity, but has no effect on the already burned gas.) The diode allows that reverse current to flow to the horn instead of to the spark coil, so no secondary reverse spark is produced at the spark plug when the horn is on. The diode one-way-gate stops the forward current from flowing out to the horn, so the main spark is not affected. The main spark only needs the forward current and not the reverse. 

Always disconnect the power diode, aka “Mystery Diode”, and the engine stop switch, when troubleshooting for no spark, on a Hercules-made moped. It’s either inside the head light, or down near the engine. It is for making the horn not dim the headlight.

Sachs 1978 P-1 Sachs 504/1D engine Motoplat 3-wire magneto ignition coil on top lites coil on bottom

Sachs ’78 P-1 with 504/1D
Motoplat 3-wire magneto
top: ignition – blue, black
bottom: lites coil – yellow

 

Motoplat (made in Spain) 80mm magneto/flywheels used on some Hercules, Sparta, and KTM mopeds with Sachs 504 engines are gold colored, and have the number 9600089. The wires are yellow = lights, blue = ignition, black = ignition ground. Their points have a built-in red wire. Condenser is CEV-compatible.

Motoplat 80mm flywheels used on 1976-86 Derbi mopeds have the number 9600099. Those wires are red = lights, green = ignition, blue = ignition ground. Their points are different, and also have no built-in wire. Condenser is CEV-compatible.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kromag/Sears Wiring Sears Free Spirit, uses Puch 1977-78 (6-wire) 6-wire Bosch magneto 1-speed 0212 124 043

Sears Free Spirit Wiring
Puch 1977-78 (6-wire)
external ignition ground

Sears Free Spirit Wiring: The Free Spirit moped, made by Kromag, has the same wiring and electrical equipment as 1977-78 Puch Maxi (6-wire). In fact, the whole bike is Puch, but it doesn’t say “Puch” anywhere on it. All of the brand markings have been removed, to make it seem like Sears made it. Like all the Bosch 6-wire magneto Puch wirings, the blue/black wire that powers the horn is an external ignition ground for the source coil. Unplug the horn wires and loosen the light/horn switch clamp from the handlebar, and a Free Spirit will loose spark and not run. Also, like 78-later Puch, the horn button does the opposite of all other horn buttons in the world. It is normally closed, and when you push, it is momentarily open. If you replace it with any other horn button, the horn would be on all the time, and go off when you push the button. To eliminate the chance of loosing spark due to bad horn wires, simply gound the blue/black magneto wire at the terminal strip above the engine, by moving it over to the brown wire that goes to ground.

Solex Parts Figure 20 1973-74 S 3800 USA Lights Wiring

Solex 3800 Wiring
1973-74 S 3800 USA
1-wire + spark magneto

Solex 4600

Solex 4600 (USA) Wiring
3-wire + spark magneto

Solex 3800 Impex

Solex 3800 Impex
Lights Wiring only
points or CDI magneto

Solex Wiring: The 1970’s and earlier Solex 3800 had only one wire outside of the engine, going to the tail light. Instead of wires, the head light and switch had direct contacts. The ignition spark coil was internal, with the spark plug wire coming out of the magneto. 

 

 

Soni 2 Wiring Diagram India made Vespa Ciao

Soni 2 Wiring Diagram
India made Vespa Ciao
3-wire points magneto
external ignition ground

Soni 2 Excalibur Wiring Vespa Ciao India remake

Soni 2 Excalibur Wiring
turn signal model
India made Vespa Ciao
3-wire points magneto
external ignition ground

Soni Wiring: This 1980’s India remake of a 1970’s Italian made Vespa/Piaggio moped, has functionally the same wiring, pretty much, as Vespa did. Unlike the Kinetic, a 1990’s India made Vespa remake, that has a CDI ignition, the Soni has points, and an external ignition ground magneto that powers the brake light, like Vespa/Piaggio. When we say “ground the pink wire to get spark if the brake light filament burns out”, in India they say “earth when stop light is fused”. It looks like it has an emergency wire that would allow it to run if it lost spark from a blown brake light bulb or loose wire.

 

 

 

Sparta (US models) Flying Dutchman, Foxi

Sparta Foxi, early F.D.
with many notes added
ULO 2-bulb early taillight
Bosch 4-wire magneto
internal ignition ground

Sparta (with Bosch magneto) 1976-78 models Bosch 4-wire magneto internal ignition ground

Sparta (with Bosch)
’76-78 Foxi, F.D, Sparta
ULO 2-bulb early taillight
Bosch 4-wire magneto
internal ignition ground

Sparta with Motoplat wiring diagram showing brake light resistor-diode circuit

Sparta (with Motoplat)
’78-81 Dutchman, Sparta
ULO 2-bulb taillight w/res
Motoplat 3-wire 9800089
external ignition ground

Sparta Wiring: Sparta had two 80mm magneto versions for the Sachs 504 engine, Bosch 4-wire and Motoplat 3-wire. The wires on the bike are the same, except Motoplat version has an external ignition ground, a tail light secret resistor, brake switch type NC not NO, and the brake switches wired in series, not parallel. The Motoplat version needs the brake light wires and correct bulb to have spark.

One way to tell which (brake light) wiring and magneto version a Sparta has, from a distance, is by the color of the ignition coil and plug wire. Motoplat is red, while Bosch is black. It’s the same situation as Hercules/Sachs wiring. Spartas with red coils have normally closed (white or brass tip) brake light switches in series, and a secret brake light resistor-diode circuit board inside the tail light. Spartas with black coils have normally open (black tip) brake light switches in parallel, and no brake light resistor inside the tail light.

 

Suzuki Wiring: The early 1980’s Suzuki FZ50 (3.00 x 12″ tires) and FA50 (2.25 x 14″ tires) have pretty much the same engine, controls, wiring, and electrical equipment.

Suzuki FZ50 1981-82 FA50 maybe same 5-wire CDI magneto

Suzuki FZ50 1981-82
5-wire CDI magneto

Suzuki FA50 1981-91
5-wire CDI magneto

Suzuki FA50 wires needed to have spark

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

T=====================

Testi Wiring: Testi makes Gitane, Red Foxi, and other makes with Minarelli V1 engines. See Minarelli Wiring.

Tomos Wiring: Here is a complete, detailed, and accurate set of wiring diagrams. These took 200 hours, over a 3-month period, to gather, interpret, colorize, and edit for clarity. Many of the originals were terribly inadequate, although functionally correct. 

Tomos Automatic 75-76
3-wire mag, ext. ign gnd

Tomos A3 Bullet 1976-86 3-wire mag, ext. ign. gnd.

Tomos A3 Bullet 77-86
3-wire mag, ext. ign gnd

Tomos A3 Bullet 1986-91 2-wire mag w/regulator internal ignition ground for improved reliability

Tomos A3 Bullet 86-91
2-wire mag w/regulator
internal ignition ground
for improved reliability

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomos A3 Silver Bullet
early Golden Bullet 85-86
3-wire mag, ext. ign. gnd.

Tomos A3 Golden Bullet & Golden Bullet TTLX 1986-91 int. ign. gnd.

Tomos A3 Golden Bullet
& Golden Bullet TTLX
1986-91 int. ign. gnd.

Tomos A35 Bullet 92-93

Tomos A35 Bullet 92-93
Iskra 2-wire magneto
internal ignition ground

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomos A35 Colibri 92-96

Tomos A35 Colibri 92-96
Iskra 2-wire magneto
internal ignition ground

Tomos Sprint 1993-97

Tomos Sprint 1993-97
four different magnetos
internal ignition ground

Tomos Targa 1994-95 Tomos Targa LX 94-95

Tomos Targa 1994-95
Tomos Targa LX 94-95
four different magnetos

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomos Targa 1996-97
Tomos Targa LX 96-97
Iskra 2-wire CDI magneto

Tomos Sprint 1998-01

Tomos Sprint 1998-01
Iskra 2-wire CDI magneto

Tomos Targa 1998-01 Tomos Targa LX 98-01

Tomos Targa 1998-01
Tomos Targa LX 98-01

Tomos Revival 2001-02

Tomos Revival 2001-02
Iskra 3-wire CDI magneto

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomos Revival 2002-07

Tomos Revival 2002-07
Iskra 3-wire CDI mag A35
Iskra 5-wire CDI mag A55

Tomos Sprint 2002-07

Tomos Sprint 2002-07
Iskra 2-wire CDI mag A35

Tomos Tomos 2002-05 Tomos ST 2005-2007 Tomos LX 2002-2007

Tomos Tomos 2002-05
Tomos ST 2005-2007
Tomos LX 2002-2007

Tomos Streetmate 05-07

Tomos Streetmate 05-07
Iskra 5-wire CDI mag A55

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomos Arrow 2005

Tomos Arrow 2005
Iskra 4-wire CDI mag A55

Tomos LX Limited Edition 2005

Tomos LX Limited Ed. 05
Iskra 3-wire CDI mag A35

Tomos Arrow-R 2006-08

Tomos Arrow-R 2006-08
Iskra 5-wire CDI mag A55

Tomos Revival 2008-12+

Tomos Revival 2008-12+
Kinetic 5-wire CDI mag

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomos Streetmate 08-12 Tomos Str.mate-R 08-13

Tomos Streetmate 08-12
Tomos Str.mate-R 08-13
Kinetic 5-wire CDI mag

Tomos Sprint 2008-13 Tomos ST 2008-2013 Tomos LX 2008-2012

Tomos Sprint 2008-13
Tomos ST,LX 2008-2013
Kinetic 5-wire CDI mag

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trac Wiring: Trac mopeds were made in Korea by Dailim (DMC). Early Tracs were a mix of European and Asian components and designs.

Trac Clipper, Eagle, Hawk 83-86 Dailim M56 Engine Bosch 3-wire magneto external ignition ground

Trac 1982-84  Clipper,Eagle,Hawk
Daelim M56 engine
Bosch 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

Trac 1985-86 Clipper,Eagle,Hawk Dailim M56 Engine Bosch 3-wire magneto external ignition ground

Trac 1985-86 Clipper,Eagle,Hawk
Daelim M56 Engine
Bosch 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Later Tracs were all Asian, with wire colors same as Honda.

Daelim ignitionThe DMC DP50 (one-speed with pedals) used on Olympic, Clipper, Hawk and DM50 (two-speed kickstart) used on Liberty, Image, Escot, engines both had a 5-wire CDI magneto. White = battery charging, yellow = head light, blue/white = ignition pulse, black/red = ignition power, green = ground.

Trac Wiring 1986-89 Liberty, Image, Escot CDI 5-wire magneto internal ignition ground

Trac 1986-89 w/signals
Liberty, Image, Escot    Daelim DK50 2-speed
CDI 5-wire magneto
internal ignition ground

Trac Daelim DK50
wires needed for spark

Trac DH100 Super Hawk 3-wire magneto in oil bath points up on th OH cam 6V 6Ah battery, 6V lites

Trac DH100 Super Hawk
3-wire oil bath magneto
points up on the OH cam
6V 6Ah battery, 6V lites

<<There are two CDI units that look the same. Here the key switch is bypassed by joining the two black/red male bullets. The engine stop button (black/white) is also disconnected. This apparatus has good spark, when the wheel is spun counterclockwise by hand. Note that the coil is grounded.

 

 

The DMC DH100 (4-speed 97cc 4-stroke overhead cam motorcycle) had a 3-wire magneto/generator down in the oil bath, with external points and condenser up on the overhead cam. Very much the same as a Honda 90, except the Trac had a ignition source coil in the generator, while most versions of Honda 90’s did not . A 1986 Trac DH100 would run with a dead or missing battery, but a 1971 Honda Trail 90 would not. These similar small motorcycles are examples of the difference between a battery ignition and a magneto ignition system.  

 

U=====================

Universal Ign Wiring Ext & Int Ground very important

Universal Ign Wiring
Ext or Int Ground

Universal Wiring Harness brake light wires can be either NO in parallel or NC in series

Universal Wiring Harness
brake light wires can be
norm open in parallel or
normally closed in series

Italian wiring harness

Universal Wiring Actual
this is for sale in electrical
also in Morini Wiring

 

 

 

V=====================

Vespa Wiring: There many wiring diagrams with photos and service info. They are located in a separate Service section, under Vespa Electrical https://www.myronsmopeds.com/category/vespa-electrical/

 

W=====================

Wards Riverside Wiring Dansi 3-wire magneto external ignition ground

Wards Riverside Wiring
Dansi 3-wire magneto
external ignition ground

Wards Riverside Wiring: Mongomery Wards in the late 1960’s sold a full line of motorcycles and mopeds made in Italy by Benelli (and also early 1960’s mopeds made in France by Motobecane). This is the 50cc sport bike model FFA-14003, a 4-speed foot shift manual clutch motorcycle. Even back then, they used the ignition source coil ground to operate the brake light. Ground the green wire first to get spark. 

 

 

 

X=====================

 

Y=====================

Yamaha QT50 Wiring Diagram

Yamaha QT50 Wiring

Yamaha Wiring: Yamaha made the QT50 Yamahopper moped (actually “no-ped” or “mokick”) from 1979 to about 1983. There are 2 or 3 wiring and electrical equipment versions. more later… 

 

 

Z=====================

Zundapp ZD40 Wiring

Zundapp ZD40 Wiring
Euro model w/brake light
internal ignition ground

Zundapp zd40 Specs

Zundapp ZD40 1980 
3-speed mokick specs
Bosch 0212 122 026 mag

1977 Zundapp ZD40 pedal start moped 3-speed grip shift aluminum frame

Zundapp ZD40 1977 
pedals,3-spd, alum frame

Zundapp mofas, mopeds, and mokicks were never sold in the US. The “BMW of mopeds” is included in the wiring party because Zundapps are easy to admire! Too bad “ZD40” means 40kph  (26mph). 

 

 

 

Welcome to Myrons Wiring Diagrams Gallery. Mopeds have strange electrical wiring. Many have “secret” wires that must be grounded to run. Many have switches that normally would turn off something, but instead they turn on something (brake light or horn). Most of the wiring diagrams explain this, when it applies. This “secret wire that must be grounded to run” system is only on most 1970’s and 1980’s US models. The reason for this craziness is that European mopeds do not need brake lights, but US ones do. So many kinds power the brake light from the back side of the ignition source coil. One kind, Puch 77-later, 6-wire, powers the horn from the back side of the ignition source coil. So on a 77-on Puch, if you unplug the horn and push the horn button, the engine dies. Besides loosing spark, older mopeds also often burn out light bulbs. That is because a magneto generator alone, without a battery or regulator, ranges from dim lights at idle, to bright at full speed. So your bulbs are either too dim, or else they burn out a lot. Modern (1990-later) mopeds don’t have the old moped wiring problems. They run a more powerful magneto, 70-80 watts instead of 30-40. All the lights run off one wire, with a 12VAC voltage regulator. To keep the voltage below about 13V, the regulator passes any excess current into the frame where it’s mounted. So when most of the lights are off, the frame is being warmed a lttle. This “regulation by wasting” system is common on motorcycles but not automobiles. Also nothing that the lights do ever matters to the ignition. Magneto ignitions after about 1993 are CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) instead of points. They’re also maintainence free and have easier starting.  


New Tomos Electrical

August 13, 2008

Welcome. Scroll down to the topic you want:

1) Basics of Tomos Moped Electrical Systems   Everything is Circuits, Shorts and Opens, Volts and Amps, Batteries and Generators, Magnetos, Magneto versus Battery, Testing without a Tester, Example 1: Prince of Darkness, Example 2: The Flasher, Make predictions, AC lights and DC lights, Example 3: The Double Crosser, Example 4: The Flickerer, Example 5: The No Charger

2) Tomos Voltage Regulators 1988 to 2013  Here are the 12 volt AC regulators, three types. One is also a rectifier.

3) Tomos CDI Ignitions 1994 to 2013    Ignition, How to Test a Coil, How to Check for Spark, Ground the Coil Wire to Stop the Spark, Tomos  A35 and A55 CDI Ignitions, Ignition Timing, Ignition Symptoms

4) Tomos Wiring Diagrams 1992 to 2013  Here are over a dozen wiring diagrams, colorized and enhanced with notes, part numbers, and additional useful information.

Basics of Tomos Moped Electrical Systems

by Shaun Strahm, Myrons Mopeds, December 2010, updated Nov 2012

The following is a “crash course” on how to find and fix electrical problems on late model TOMOS mopeds.

Everything is circuits

Every electrical system is composed of current loops or circuits. The electricity flows out, goes through the device being powered, and then flows back. That is why all electrical cords have at least two wires. One wire is out and one is back. Coaxial cables look like one wire, but they’re actually one wire surrounding another. If you follow that pair of wires in an appliance cord all the way to the transformer on the power pole, you’ll see they’re joined in the windings of the transformer, forming a closed loop.  In some electrical systems such as automobiles and mopeds, the metal frame is a “ground”. In this context a “ground” is a path for the electricity to flow through that is shared by many loops. If the cars in a big city were electricity, then each current loop would be one car, going to work in the morning and then coming back in the evening, making a loop. Then the freeway would be the ground, where the separate current loops all share the same roadway.  When several devices are connected with each having its own current loop, they are said to be connected in “parallel”. Unplug one device and the others are unaffected. Everything in your house is wired in parallel, and has its own current loop. Similarly, on a moped, the head light, tail light, brake light, and horn are wired in parallel, and have their own separate loops or circuits. The tangled nest of cords behind your computer desk, as well as the wires in your moped, can, in principle, be laid out in nice straight parallel lines in order to visualize the “scheme”. This is called a “schematic” diagram. Being able to visualize or draw the schematic is required to understand any circuit.

 

Figure 1: Schematic diagrams of a moped and a house are the same. Every device is in a “parallel” loop or circuit.

     When two devices are connected one after another, they are said to be “in series”. The only things on a moped or in your house that are in series with other things are the switches. From figure 2 below, you can see from the house wiring diagram that the TV switch turns on the TV and not the computer. You can see that the breaker turns off everything. From the moped wiring diagram you can see that the light switch turns off the lights but not the horn. This is basic.

Figure 2: The devices in a moped and a house are in parallel, while their on/off switches are in series.

You can usually tell how a moped or a house is wired from observing the behavior of all the switches and devices. Any switches must be in series with the devices they turn on and off. Each device and its (optional) switch must be in parallel so that they can be turned on and off independently of one another. This is predicting the wiring diagram from the observed behavior. Conversely, you can also predict the behavior from observing the wiring diagram.

Shorts and opens

Not every electrical problem is a “short”. The term “short” is unknowingly misused by the general public to mean two opposite things at once, a “short circuit” and an “open circuit”. It can mean a true short, where a wire (or anything that carries electricity) touches another, forming a shorter loop that redirects the electricity through the short loop and not through the original loop. Or the term “short” is misused to mean an open, where a wire (or anything that carries electricity) does not touch another, interrupting the loop and causing the electricity to not flow through the loop. Both a short and an open can cause electricity to not flow through a device, but for completely opposite reasons.

Figure 3: A “short” is a shortcut that steals most of the current from the device. An “open” interrupts the current.

Volts and amps

Electricity flowing through a wire is analogous to water flowing through a pipe. It is measured in two ways. The “voltage” (in volts), is like the water pressure (in pounds per square inch). The “amperage” (in amperes or “amps”) is like the water flow (in gallons per minute). When you’re taking a shower and someone turns on the garden hose, your water pressure drops. Less water pressure results in less water flow and your shower gets weaker. Likewise, when starting your car, all your lights get dim. This is because your 12 volt battery momentarily drops down to 6 or 8 volts when the starter motor is using up most of the available current.

Batteries and generators

There are two main sources of electricity. Batteries (and fuel cells) produce steady current, called “DC”, or direct current.  Generators (and alternators, magnetos, and dynamos), make “AC”, or alternating current. The current made by a generator alternates direction back and forth, in sync with the rotation. The rotation is what causes the electric current to be AC. All power plant generators in the USA are set to rotate at a speed that always makes 60 cycles per second AC, or 3600 cycles per minute. On a moped, the generator rotates with the engine, which varies in speed from about 1000 cycles (revolutions) per minute “rpm” at idle to above 8000 cycles per minute going fast downhill. So the “frequency” (how fast it alternates) of the AC is variable in a moped, but not in a house. Many devices such as lights, behave the same no matter what the AC frequency is. In fact an incandescent light bulb works exactly the same on AC or DC current. In figure 4 below, graphs of voltage versus time show the main types of electricity. 60 wave crests happen in about one second, so the time scale is too short for the human eye to see. Only an oscilloscope can show the “wave form”.

Figure 4: AC is from generators. DC is from batteries. In between is rectified AC or “rippled” DC.

Magnetos

Mopeds and small motorcycles have magnetos. A “magneto” is a generator plus a no-battery ignition. A magneto ignition will operate with a dead battery. Automobiles and large motorcycles have battery ignitions. They require a battery, both to operate and to start up. Dirt bikes and power equipment without lights have magnetos with a single wire output. That is the ignition wire that goes from the source coil (and points and condenser) inside the engine to the transformer coil outside the engine. All street bikes with lights have two or more wires coming out of their magnetos. One is for ignition, and the other(s) is for lights. We now focus on the lighting wires, which are normally separate from the ignition. If you turn over a moped engine, that is, cause it to rotate, then some electricity will be generated and the lights should come on while it’s being rotated. Just because the lights work does not mean the ignition works. They are like two separate generators tuning on the same shaft. As the engine rotates faster, the lights get brighter, indicating more voltage is being produced.  The magneto/generator will reach a speed where the voltage will level off. Above that speed the lights won’t get any brighter. So a magneto is self-limiting with regard to engine speed (and thus vehicle speed). The bad thing about a magneto is when you are stopped idling your lights are dim. With a battery, your lights are always almost the same brightness all the time. The good thing about a magneto is you don’t have a heavy expensive battery that goes bad if you leave it sit for over a few months.

Magneto versus battery

The most important difference between a battery and a magneto is a battery will deliver an almost unlimited amount of amps, if it is allowed to, while a magneto will limit the maximum amps by dropping in voltage. Because of this, a battery system needs fuses to protect its wires from melting from too many amps. A magneto does not ever have fuses, nor does it need them. This difference makes moped electrical troubleshooting different from automobile troubleshooting. A magneto almost never burns out or causes wires to melt. You can short a magneto’s lighting wire directly to ground, and it will only get warm. Short a battery’s positive terminal to the negative and the wire will suddenly glow red and splatter molten copper and sparks. That’s quite a difference. A battery is always “live” even when the engine is not running. A magneto, however, is only “live” when the engine is running. So when troubleshooting a magneto system, instead of starting and stopping the engine to perform voltage tests, it is more convenient to leave the engine off and perform continuity (ohms) tests on “non-live” wires. When the leads on an ohm meter touch each other, the resistance (ohms) is essentially zero. When the pair of test leads does not touch each other the resistance (ohms) is essentially infinite. Instead of watching the needle swing on a meter, a continuity tester that makes sound is better. With a tester that beeps when the leads touch, and with the leads connected to the wire being tested, you can then focus your eyes on the suspicious area and wiggle or move the wires around listening for the beep to change. When your suspicious wire touches the bad spot, the tester will beep. Or when your suspicious wire goes open, the beep will stop. This is the usual way of checking bulbs, besides looking visually for a broken filament. A good bulb will have continuity (very low ohms), while a bad bulb will have no continuity (very high ohms). You can often check a bulb without removing it from the socket, by connecting the test leads to the wires that lead to the bulb. If there are branch points along that wire that lead to other bulbs, then those other bulbs must be removed from their sockets in order to isolate the suspicious one.

Testing a without a tester

You don’t need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows. Likewise it is possible to perform useful tests with just swapping things around, unplugging things, or using paper clips or clip leads as temporary wires. When your toaster stops making toast, the first thing you do is go plug it into a wall socket that is known to work. Then if the toaster works there, you know the problem is in the wall socket. If it still does not work in the good wall socket, then you know something’s wrong with the toaster. Right there you just applied mathematical logic to perform troubleshooting. People who are good at math and logic puzzles also have an easier time solving electrical problems. The most important tool needed for electrical troubleshooting is the mushy grey stuff between your ears. Each test, when performed properly, establishes a new truth. The newly established truth forms the basis for a further test. Each successive test narrows down the possibilities, until finally there is only one possible explanation for the results of all the tests. There is almost always more than one way of troubleshooting. Instead of moving the suspicious toaster to a known good wall socket, an alternative way of troubleshooting it would be to take a known good lamp and plug it into the suspicious wall socket. If the known good lamp works there, then you know the wall socket is good and the toaster is bad. If the known good lamp does not work there, then you know the wall socket is bad but you still don’t know about the toaster.  That is the kind of precise mathematical thinking required to solve electrical problems (puzzles to some).

Example 1: Prince of Darkness

Here is a real life moped troubleshooting example. Let’s say your 2003 Tomos Sprint head light does not work. You first learn about how it’s wired from the wiring diagram. That tells you there is a head light on/off switch on the right handlebar, and a high beam/low beam switch on the left handlebar. Right away you look to see if the switch is on. If it is, then you see if switching from high to low beam matters.  On an already running bike, you would start the engine, flip the switches, and observe. If the head light worked on high beam but not low, that would mean the problem must be after the high/low switch, in the low beam (white) wire, low beam bulb socket prong, or most likely the low beam filament inside the bulb. If the head light did not work on either high or low, then nothing new is learned. Looking at the wiring diagram you can see that all of the lights work of one wire. So you would test to see if the tail light, brake light, speedometer light, and horn work. Again you would start the engine, press buttons, and observe. If none of the devices work, regardless of what position the switches are in, then it’s possible that all of the devices (head light bulb, speedometer light bulb, tail light bulb, brake light bulb, and horn) could be bad all at once. However, it’s far more likely to be a single fault in the yellow wire that supplies all the devices. There’s two ways the yellow wire can be bad. It can be touching ground anywhere along its length, from the speedometer bulb to the magneto, causing a short circuit, or it can be an open circuit somewhere before the first branching point, possibly in the magneto. Understanding that is the hardest part. The next test would be to unplug the yellow wire from the engine, start the engine, touch the yellow wire from the engine directly to ground and see if it sparks. If the generator is working, it will spark. Let’s say it does spark. Then you would look to see if it sparked when you plugged it back in, maybe using a paper clip to see sparks that might be hidden by the connector cover. If it does spark when it’s plugged in, yet none of the lights come on, it can only mean that the yellow supply wire is touching ground somewhere, allowing the current to return without going through the lights. Next step is to start eliminating the various possibilities. The AC voltage regulator is a good place to start. You would unplug it and then start the engine and see if the lights work. On a 1992-later Tomos moped you need a voltage regulator only when the engine is revved up to keep the bulbs from burning out from too much voltage (like 18 VAC max without regulator, 13 VAC max with). The lights will work fine without a regulator, but the engine must not be revved up too much. Let’s say that the test is performed, and the lights still don’t work, even with the regulator disconnected. Next possibility might be to look at the yellow wires going to each brake light switch, since they are easy to get to. Pull the rubber hoods off and let the wires hang loose, a yellow and a green on each side. Now if the brake light green wire was shorted to ground, and at the same time the yellow and green on either side were unplugged and touching each other , then the brake light would be always on, always stealing the juice from the other lights. You would start the engine with the brake light switch wires loose. Bingo! Suddenly the head light, tail light, speedometer light, and horn all work. So you would put the regulator back and then go look for the green wire touching ground somewhere. You know it must be true. You would look first under the back fender, where the tire sometimes rubs against the tail light and brake light wires. Eureka! The green wire is all shredded and touching the brown ground wire. You went from one end of the bike to the other, without any test equipment, just plugging and unplugging wires in a logical progression.

Example 2: The Flasher

In this example, a 2008 Tomos LX, turning on the right turn signal makes all the lights flash. You go to the wiring diagram and notice that all the devices run off the yellow AC power wire. You reason that if the purple wire, which is for right side turn signals, is shorted to ground somewhere, then that would explain the bad behavior. Whenever the right side turn signals would try to go on, the short would steal the current away and make all lights go off. The turn signals are plastic and almost never get shorted internally. It can happen from someone bending the prong that touches the bulb, so that it touches the bulb socket. But more likely, the purple wire is touching ground somewhere under the back fender. After looking under the rear fender and seeing no signs of wire damage from rubbing on the tire, you would start performing tests to isolate the problem. You would unplug both right turn signals. The problem would go away if it was in one of the turn signals. But it doesn’t. You study the wiring diagram and notice there are many ways you can unplug things on a 2008-later model. You might choose to unplug the main plug. From looking at the wiring diagram you would know that the front turn signals and indicator light would be eliminated, but the rear turn signals would still try to function. You perform the test, and lo and behold, the problem goes away. This means that the purple wire is touching ground somewhere from the main plug forward. You would then maybe look at the front harness where it goes up under the gas tank. A normal 2008-later Tomos Sprint, ST, or LX has the three electrical bundles and the two control cables (throttle and rear brake) distributed evenly on the right and left sides of the steering tube part of the frame. Some 2008-09 bikes came from the factory with all of the wires and cables on one side. This makes it very difficult to get the cable tray on and very likely to pinch or puncture the wires with one of the cable tray screws. You notice that your bike is like that, with the cables and wires all on one side. You loosen the cable tray screws, letting the wire bundles dangle. You plug back in the main plug and start the engine. The problem goes away. Then you notice the snake bite puncture wound the cable tray screw made in the front wiring harness. The permanent fix is to unplug the main plug, and the right switch plug, and relocate the front harness and right switch harness to the empty left side. So the right side should have the throttle cable, rear brake cable, and the left and switch harness. The left side has the hefty front harness and the slim right switch harness. With this proper routing the cables and wires almost never get damaged.

Make predictions

The troubleshooting process involves making predictions. Look at any of the Tomos moped wiring diagrams in the collection. Imagine cutting a wire or two, here or there, or touching one or more to ground. In each case a good technician should be able to predict the misbehavior of all the lights and devices for all possible cases, just by looking at the wiring diagram or visualizing it in their head. If you study each of the eighteen Tomos moped wiring diagrams in this collection and imagine what would happen when any given wire becomes open or shorted, then when you do see the real life misbehavior, you will often know right away what the possible causes are, since that scenario has already been rehearsed. For example, ask “what if the blue (high beam) wire touches ground”. Answer “all the AC lights would go off, but only when the high beam is turned on”.

AC lights and DC lights

The deluxe Tomos “battery” models, 2001 and later, including Revival and Streetmate, have both 12 volt AC and 12V DC electrical systems. Like the regular models (Sprint, ST, LX), the “battery” models use the 12V AC generator/magneto for the head light, speedometer light, and tail light. The other lights and devices, which are the brake light, turn signals, horn, oil light, and electric starter, are powered by a 12V DC battery.

Example 3: The Double Crosser

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Example 4: The Flickerer

On 1991-2008 Tomos A35 and 2007-2008 A55 models, excluding Revival and off road, the CEV switches are integrated into the lever and throttle housings, and cannot be unplugged from the wiring harness. To replace these switches, each wire must be carefully un-soldered and re-soldered. A micro-tip low wattage soldering iron is needed to reach in, and to not melt the black plastic housing. Sometimes when trying to not overheat the switch plastic, the solder joint is made “cold”. This is where the solder is “balled up” rather than “blended in”, where it is stuck only by the flux and not the solder. Here, the blue hi-beam wire is a “cold” solder joint. When you wiggle the wire it causes the high beam to flicker. The remedy is to re-solder it.

 

 

 

 

Example 5: The No Charger

This 2009 Tomos stator, back side,  had this wire, green arrow, smashed flat against the aluminum wall of the stator plate. It was not touching all the time. The coils do not look overheated.

This machine was a 2009 Tomos Streetmate-R, a “battery model”. It’s battery would not stay charged. The battery voltage was staying the same, whether the engine was running fast, or not at all. It should go up, from about 12 to 13 volts, when it’s charging.

You can tell from 50 yards away, blindfolded, whether or not a Tomos Revival, Streetmate, Arrow-R charging system is working, by the sound of the horn. When the battery is not being charged, like when the engine is not running, the horn sounds completely smooth. The battery voltage is a steady straight line on an oscilloscope. When the engine is running the the smooth sound becomes more rough. The battery voltage is a straight line with little repeating bumps on an oscilloscope. When you hear the rough sound in the horn, you know that the charging system is working.

The white spot is a reflection from the shiny flat surface of the black insulation, worn from vibration and contact with the stator plate. The fix was to cut away a fingernail size part of the plate.

 

 

 


Tomos Voltage Regulators

 

Tomos Voltage Regulators

Tomos regulators. Some blade connectors are duplicates (connected together inside) or unused (not connected inside).

 

All of the above 12-Volt Alternating Current regulators can interchange. They all regulate the voltage on the yellow wire, by dumping any excess voltage into the brown wire, that goes to the frame. They keep the AC voltage below about 13 volts. This allows the use of a stronger generator, for brighter lights when stopped and the engine is idling. The stronger generator would otherwise be too strong when the engine was running fast, and would make a voltage over 13 volts, maybe 14 or 16. That would make the lights super bright, but they would soon burn out. The regulator prevents bulb burnout from too much voltage. The bulbs can also burn out from too much vibration. The regulator would not help that.