Contents: 1. a. Wedge bulbs (all glass, push on)
Contents: 1. b. Festoon bulbs (glass tube, push on)
Contents: 1. c. Screw base bulbs (screw on)
Contents: 2. Bayonet base bulbs (push and turn)
Contents: 3. Plate base headlight bulbs
Contents: 4. Sealed beam headlight bulbs
Contents: 5. Non-sealed beam headlights
Contents: 6. Sealed to non-sealed conversion
Contents: 7. Bulb information
Most moped light bulbs are standard automotive bulbs. Most bulbs are made in 6 volt or 12 volt versions, But finding 6V bulbs is difficult since all cars are 12V since the 1970’s. In all of these magneto/generator powered head lights, a 12 volt bulb will replace a 6 volt one, but won’t be as bright.
ELG74 12V 1.2w 74 5mm wedge Flüsser $3.00
for Tomos speedos (CEV black) 1990 to 2002
6V1.7W 6V 1.7w 10mm wedge N/A
12-1080 12V 3w 194 10mm wedge $1.00 or $5.00 for 10
1b. Festoon Bulbs – look like glass fuses
20.0908 6V 0.6w CEV 6 x 31 SV6 ends $2.00
10626.5 6V 1.5w CEV 8 x 28 SV7-8 ends N/A
For hi-beam indicator inside “bullet” headlight
ELB6428 12V 3w CEV 8 x 28 SV7-8 ends $2.00
ELB6428 12V 3w CEV 8 x 31 SV7-8 ends $2.00
For some Euro tail lamps
ELB6413 12V 5w 000 11 x 36 SV8.5-8 ends N/A
00000.00 6V 5w 000 11 x 39 SV8.5-8 ends $2.00
For some older Euro tail lamps
0000.000 6V 15w 000 14 x 43 SV8.5-8 ends $2.50
For some older Euro head lamps
200019 12V 10w 11 x 43 SV8.5-8 ends $2.00
1c. Bulbs with E10 screw base, single contact
6V0.6W 6V 0.6w $1.50
for 76-80 Peugeot speedometer
14460 6V 6w yellow $2.00
for early Solex 3800 head light
2. Bayonet Base Bulbs
These bulbs have little nubs on the base. You push in and rotate clockwise to install.
Bulbs with BA7s base, 7mm bayonet single
10632.1 6V 0.6w CEV N/A use 7V 0.7W
7V0.7W 7V 0.7w $1.00
6V1.0W 6V 1.0w $1.50
ELB1262 6V 1.5w $1.50
ELB3898 12V 2w $1.50
for 78-80 Motobecane/03-07 Tomos/other VDO
Bulbs with BA9s base, 9mm bayonet single
6V0.8W 6V 0.8w 47 $1.50 long glass
200002 6V 1.5w 51 $1.50 small glass
6V2.0W 6V 2w $1.00 small glass
6V4.0W 6V 4w $2.50 long glass
200003 12V 2w 53 $1.50 small glass
200004 12V 2w 53 $1.50 long glass
for 1987-on Tomos turn or hi beam indicator
12V3W 12V 3w 57 N/A large glass
ELB3893 12V 4w Everglo $2.50 long glass
BA15s base, 15mm bayonet single, small glass
ELB5006 6V 5w 63 $2.00
for 77-later Puch, must have this to be bright
6V8W 6V 8w $2.00 for Cateye turn sig.
ELB5001 6V 10w 81 $2.00
ELB57 12V 5w 67 $1.50
SAE97 12V 8w 97 $1.50
ELB89 12V 10w 89 $1.50
BA15s base, 15mm bayonet single, large glass
SAE87 6V 12w 87 N/A
H101C 6V 21w 1129 $2.00
6V24W 6V 24w 1133 $2.00 very large glass
12V12W 12V 12w 1003 $1.50
ELB1156 12V 26w 1156 $2.00
12V32cp 12V 32cp 1073 $1.50 12V 20w approx.
BA15d base, 15mm bayonet two-contact, equal nubs
2-filament kinds conduct through the shell, like most bulbs.
6V15.15w 6V 15/15w N/A 2-filaments 2-contacts
12V21.6c 12V 21/6cp 1176 $2 2-filaments 2-contacts
12V17.5w 12V 17/6w 1158 $3 2-filaments 2-contacts
for most 1950’s car’s turn/brake/tail light. Obsolete.
1-filament kinds do not conduct through the metal shell.
12V4cp 12V 4cp 1178 N/A 1-filament, 2-contacts
BAY 15d base, 15 bayonet 2-contacts, unequal nubs
10630.1 6V 15/3w CEV $2.00
10630.3 6V 18/3w CEV N/A
for Vespa Ciao tail light
ELB1154 6V 21/5w 1154 $2.00
ELB1157 12V 27/8w 1157 $1.00 box of 10 $6.00
24V216c 24V 21/6cp $1.50
BA20d base, 20 bayonet 2-contacts, unequal nubs
6V25.25 6V 25/25w $12.00
for Derbi Variant Sport 1986-89
20-0018 12V 35/35w Narva $5.00
for Tomos Revival/Streetmate
044.701 12V 25/25w $5.00
for Tomos ’90-on, square HL, ’95-05 Kinetic TFR
3. Plate Base Headlight Bulbs
These are all for head lights, for higher power and precise focus.
P15d-3 base, 15×25 “3-tab plate” double
12V35.35 12V 35/35w P15d-3 base N/A
P26s base, 15×26 “stepped plate” single
sqrPuch 6V 21?w P26s base N/A
for 1984-86 Puch with square Niox headlight
20-0023 12V 15w P26s base $9.00
for Tomos Arrow-R and Streetmate-R (dual HL)
PX15d base, 15×24 “plain plate” double
632729 6V 15/15w PX15d base N/A
632787 12V 15/15w PX15d base $7
632843 12V 18/18w PX15d base N/A
633905 12V 25/25w PX15d base N/A
4. Sealed Beam Headlights (bulbs)
Sealed beam means the entire glass lens in front and mirror reflector in back, are evacuated of air. The bulb cannot be replaced without replacing the whole glass. Moped 4.5 inch round head lights, sealed beam or non-sealed, interchange with some tractor lights, auto and motorcycle fog lights, forklift, golf cart, and utility vehicle lights. There are even clear plastic 4.5″ round 12V landscaping lights that can interchange.
Bulbs, sealed beam 4.5 inch round
GE4667 6V 18w General Electric 4667, normal beam, 2-rear blades N/A
To use a 4667-1, the connectors can be removed from the 2- or 3- prong plug.
GE4667-1 6V 18w General Electric 4667-1, normal beam, 2-side blades $15
GE4767 6V 25w General Electric 4767, normal beam, 2-rear blades N/A
Peugeot 103 SP original (GE)
W4158 6V 25w Westinghouse 4158, normal beam, 2-screws N/A
Motobecane 76-77 original (Westinghouse)
W4583 6V ??w Westinghouse 4583, normal beam, 2-screws $20
GE4776 12V 25w General Electric 4776, normal beam, 2-screws $18
W4568 12V 25w Westinghouse 4568, normal beam, 2-screws $17
Motobecane 78-80 original (Westinghouse)
20-0082 12V 30w Wagner 4416, spot light, 2-screws $15
20-0080 12V 35w Wagner 4415, normal beam, 2-screws $17
20-0084 12V 40/40w Wagner 4440, normal beam, 3-prong $20
CEV171 6V 20w CEV 171 4.5″ normal beam, 2-rear-blades N/A
CEV172 6V 20/20w CEV 172 4.5″ hi-lo beam, 3-rear-blades N/A
18528 3-prong plug socket
18529 female blade connector, wider type for headlight
5. Non-Sealed Headlights (fixtures for bulbs)
Non-sealed headlights means the bulb is not sealed in. It can be removed and replaced without replacing the whole glass, at a much lower cost.
a. for under 21 watt generators (most mopeds)
These headlights take automotive bulbs with a BA15s base. Bulbs with this base have about a 20 watt rating. That matches the headlight power output of most mopeds. There are two main bulb choices, #1156 (12V 21W) and #1129 (6V 18W), and also 6V 21W. The bulbs are for car turn signals. The #1156 is sold in every US auto parts store and in some convenience stores. There are also other less common bulbs with this base that interchange, including LED versions.
CEV non-sealed (replaceable bulb) Headlights
CEV171 R 4.5″ glass lens/reflector, new w/04811 N/A
already has factory-cut notched hole for 04811 bulb socket
some used ones may cost less, but be scratched or weathered
04811 bulb socket for CEV glass lens/reflector $13
Takes a #1156 or #1129 bulb, or any with BA15s base.
18890 clip for CEV bulb socket 04811 $1
10343 w-clip for holding glass to rim uses 4-5 $2
This w-clip is for CEV rims. There are 3 or more other kinds:
Luxor, ULO, Taiwan headlights have different w-clips. See below.
Generic non-sealed (replaceable bulb) Headlights
RBH-06 comes with 6V 18W #1129 bulb $30
For 6V DC battery power, or 15 to 20 watt 6V AC generator power.
RBH-12 comes with 12V 21W #1156 bulb $30
For 12V DC battery power, or 15 to 20 watt 12V AC generator power.
#1156 12V 21W bulbs are easy to get at USA auto stores.
12V bulb (temp. substitute) works in a 6V system, but is dimmer.
Bulb socket snaps onto metal back reflector.
This is offered in single filament only, for three reasons. 1) The socket requires a bulb with equal nubs. Common dual filament USA auto bulbs have unequal nubs and unequal filaments. 2) Most moped generators require about 20 watts for each filament. There are 21/5 watt dual filament, but on a generator-powered moped that would quickly burn out the 5W filament, because the generator makes 20 watts. The generator watts must match the total bulb watts, or there will be an under or over-voltage. A 5 watt headlight would get super bright from an over-voltage, and soon burn out, in a few minutes. 3) There are plenty of automotive dual filament headlight bulbs, but they have too many watts and the wrong type of socket.
b. for over 21 watt generators (motorcycles and some mopeds)
RBH-H3-06a with H3-type 6V 25W bulb $28
For 6V DC battery power, or 20 to 25 watt 6V AC generator power.
RBH-H3-06b with H3-type 6V 35W bulb $28
For 6V DC battery power, or 25 to 35 watt 6V AC generator power.
RBH-H3-12a with H3-type 12V 25W bulb $25
For 12V DC battery power, or 20 to 25 watt 12V AC generator power.
RBH-H3-12b with H3-type 12V 35W bulb $25
For 12V DC battery power, or 30 to 35 watt 12V AC generator power.
RBH-H3-12c with H3-type 12V 55W bulb $22
For 12V DC battery power, or 45 to 55 watt 12V AC generator power.
H3-06V25W halogen bulb only 6V 25W $7
H3-06V35W halogen bulb only 6V 35W $7
H3-12V25W halogen bulb only 12V 25W $5
H3-12V35W halogen bulb only 12V 35W $5
H3-12V55W halogen bulb only 12V 55W $2
12V 55W H3 bulbs are easy to get at USA auto stores.
Bulb socket screws onto metal back reflector.
Single filament only (no hi and lo beam)
This headlight is for mopeds with stronger generators, or motorcycles with moped-size 4.5″ headlights. The bulb is a halogen type. They run hot and require the glass to be clean and free of fingerprints.
6. Sealed to non-sealed Conversion
Metal-Backed (not glass-backed) Sealed Beam Headlight – Upgrade to Replaceable Bulb
This conversion/upgrade is a service procedure, not a part replacement.
Any metal-backed sealed beam headlight can have a hole cut in the back. The hole allows a snap-on bulb socket to give access to the bulb. Then when the bulb burns out, the entire glass does not have to be changed. This is a big advantage.
Myrons can perform this procedure on your burned out sealed beam, as long as it has a metal back, not glass.
At right is an original Honda Express headlight before and after the conversion. When Myrons Mopeds performs this, the wires are transferred over so they still plug in the same way as before. The high and low beam wires are connected together, so the hi-lo switch does not change anything. The benefit is there are many bulb choices that are inexpensive and easy to get.
The snap-on bulb socket can be ordered separately. It has spring loaded wings that hold it in a one inch hole. That is the size just big enough to pass a #1156 bulb through.
E8764 snap-on bulb socket for any 1 inch hole $6
This has only one wire. Must solder on a second wire.
The old plug(s) can be transferred to these new wires,
then the bike wires will remain the same.
CEV 4.5 inch round headlights, with metal backs, can be converted. Two examples are shown above. So can vintage Japanese headlights with metal backs, like most 1970’s -80’s small Hondas and Yamahas.
The conversion/upgrade costs $30 for parts and labor, plus return shipping $9 (to USA). Takes about one day.
7. Bulb Info
Mopeds frequently burn out bulbs, from both vibration and surges of electricity. Because there’s no battery, the voltage varies a little. At idle the lights are very dim, but at full speed they’re bright. Hopefully they’re not bright white, as that means they might burn out soon. Yellow is good but orange is too dim.
Head light: For some reason, many old 6 volt mopeds need 12 volt bulbs, or else they burn out. Some might even need a 12V AC voltage regulator ($25) added on in addition to 12V bulbs, to help prevent bulb burn out. All 6 volt mopeds can use 12 volt headlight bulbs, but the headlight is dimmer. On most 6 volt mopeds (with head and tail powered by same wire) using 12 volt headlight bulbs, the tail light is brighter. On some 6 volt mopeds using 12 volt headlight bulbs, the tail light is dimmer.
Tail light: European mopeds with 4-coil Bosch 90mm magnetos, like 1977-86 Puch, or 1977-79 Batavus, need a 6V 21W headlight bulb instead of a 12V 26W #1156, in order for the tail lite to be bright.
Brake light: Some bikes have issues where the brake light is needed for the ignition to function. On those with a single 2-filament bulb, they might loose spark when the brakes are applied with a 12 volt #1157 bulb. Then they need a 6 volt #1154 light bulb. On those with two 1-filament bulbs and a secret hidden resistor inside (connected in parallel with the brake light), they normally do not loose spark when the brake light bulb is wrong, burned out, disconnected or missing. See tail lights.
Battery power: Large motorcycles and cars have headlights powered by battery. With a battery the voltage is steady and limited. Those lights do not burn out often (except maybe from vibration). When several lights are powered by one battery wire, and one of them burns out, the others are normally not affected.
Generator power: Small motorcycles and mopeds have headlights powered by generator. With a generator the voltage rises and falls with engine speed, and can become too high at times. When several lights are powered by one generator wire, and one of them burns out, the others get more voltage and become brighter. Then soon they also burn out from that over-voltage. For example, you are riding along and you speedometer light suddenly gets brighter. That might mean your tail light just burned out, and soon the head and speedometer light will follow.
Watts matching: With generator power and without a solid-state voltage regulator, for each generator output wire, the total watts of all the bulbs powered by that wire must match the rated watts of that generator output. Generators (magnetos) usually have more than one lighting output. For example a 1977 Batavus has a 6-wire Bosch magneto with 3 lighting outputs 6V 5W (for 6V 5W bulb), 6V 10W (for 6V 10W bulb), and 6V 22W (for 6V 21W plus 6V 1.5W bulbs). When the correct bulbs are used, the watts match. Then the lights are not too bright going fast, and not too dim going slow.
Voltage regulation: Bulb watts matching and multiple lighting outputs became obsolete in the 1980’s with the advent of low-cost efficient and reliable solid-state (electronic) voltage regulation. A regulator makes the generator behave like a battery, with a maximum voltage limit. Some makes had this earlier in the 1970’s, like Motobecane. Under the headlight was a 2 inch box with cooling fins. A thing that looks like a 80’s power transistor is screwed into it. It is actually a dual zener power diode, that regulates in both directions for AC, in this case 6 volt. It limits the voltage to below about 7 VAC. Almost all modern AC voltage regulators are 12 volt, since 6 volt equipment also became obsolete in the 1970’s and 80’s.